184 Clutch

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tobaccoman
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184 Clutch

Postby tobaccoman » Fri Apr 03, 2015 12:44 pm

During the first yard mowing of the season, when I went to push in the clutch pedal, the tractor kept moving. The clutch would not disengage. The only effect that I can tell is when the pedal gets near the bottom of travel, it seems to bog down the engine. I took the cover off between your legs and looked; the linkage is all hooked up and seems to be moving, but it's not affecting anything. Anybody had the same problem or any guesses????

Larry B
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Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:16 pm
Zip Code: 45325
Tractors Owned: IH 184
Location: Farmersville ohio

Re: 184 Clutch

Postby Larry B » Fri Apr 03, 2015 10:22 pm

If the linkage is working the tips may be worn off the clutch release levers on the pressure plate. If the throwout bearing freezes it wears them off quickly. They contact the throwout bearing and it pushes on them to release the clutch. If you remove the side panels you can probably get a better look at the clutch. Have someone press the pedal and watch what happens. More than likely you will need a new clutch disk, pressure plate assy and throwout bearing. You can get kits to rebuild the pressure plate or get a complete plate. I have done both and I would go for a complete new plate. While you are in there you should think about new PTO belts too. Check the splines on the drive shaft too.Not a really hard job but you don't want to do it often!

Larry B

tobaccoman
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Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 2:52 pm

Re: 184 Clutch

Postby tobaccoman » Sat Apr 04, 2015 8:54 am

Thanks for your reply! Of course, I do need more info. After removing the side panels, can I get to the clutch to do the necessary repair?? Or do I have to disassemble things further? And where would you suggest I get the repair parts? Thanks again and when I get into it(which has to be soon because the grass is really growing) I'll probably have more questions.

Larry B
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Posts: 120
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:16 pm
Zip Code: 45325
Tractors Owned: IH 184
Location: Farmersville ohio

Re: 184 Clutch

Postby Larry B » Sat Apr 04, 2015 10:48 am

Hamilton Bobs Cubs is my go to place for parts.


clutch pressure plate and disk
http://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/cl ... lo-boy-mm5

Throwout bearing and retainer. If the ears are worn from the release fork you need a whole new bearing and retainer. If the wear on ears is minimal you can jusst replace the throwout bearing.
http://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/cl ... lo-boy-mm5

Check the release fork for wear at the point it contacts the throwout bearing retainer.
http://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/cl ... lo-boy-mm5

Probably won't need it but check the pilot bushing in the flywheel.
http://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/dr ... lo-boy-mm5

Now is the time to replace the PTO belts.
http://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/ga ... lo-boy-mm5

Replacing the cluth on the 184 is not a hard job, just a little tedious. After you remove the mower deck and drive shaft you can get the clutch out. If you have ever replaced a clutch in a car you should be able to do a 184. Be sure to put some grease on the splines of the drive shaft for the clutch disk and a dab of grease on the throwout bearing ears where the fork hits. After you have done this once you will see why you want to fix it all the first time. One more thing. if you have someone that rests their foot on the clutch pedal while mowing it will cause premature failure of the throwout bearing and that will grind the tips off the release levers. NEVER let somone drive with their foot resting on the clutch. Even though the clutch is not slipping the throout bearing is spinning agoinst the levers.

Take your time and enjoy.

Larry B.

mjr46
5+ Years
5+ Years

Re: 184 Clutch

Postby mjr46 » Sat Apr 04, 2015 9:29 pm

tobaccoman wrote:Thanks for your reply! Of course, I do need more info. After removing the side panels, can I get to the clutch to do the necessary repair?? Or do I have to disassemble things further? And where would you suggest I get the repair parts? Thanks again and when I get into it(which has to be soon because the grass is really growing) I'll probably have more questions.
OP get a OEM clutch from the dealer if needed....don't waste your money on those POS clutches Hamilton bobs sells....Mine wallowed the rivits out then sheared them on the hub that is rivited to the clutch disc....lasted 1/2 a season before that occurred.......put the oem clutch back in and has been good ever since....only reason I replaced the clutch was I had it out while doing a rear main 3 years ago and figured why not........cheap china mans clutch is what they are......also bought a driveshaft from them and when I rebuilt the motor this past fall that new driveshaft was showing wear on the splines as well as the tip where the pilot rides.......I fear I may end up replacing that again as well........I chalk that up to a cheap and when i SAY CHEAP i MEAN the quality of the part because for 200.00 bucks from Hamilton's it sure was not cheap financially.........It's cheap in the sense of improper china mans metal hardnening....So I'd be leary of a lot of the reproduction junk they sell for these tractors.......while it costs more I found that when I get oem whenever still possible I do as it saves me a lot of headache in the long run.

pwallace
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:05 pm
Zip Code: 25414

RE 184 clutch

Postby pwallace » Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:19 pm

This weekend while cutting grass on my 184, I heard a soft metallic ting and when I turned the next corner and went to reverse, discovered the clutch was gone. (riding old motorcycles for years prepares a person well for this exact moment in life) Did the rest of the yard in 2nd until I got it in the shop and found this thread. Pulled the side panels and found the throwout bearing/retainer has spun so the clutch fork no longer engages the retainer. Seems like the zerk stopped it from rotating. When I grab the bearing assembly, the whole thing has that loose shake no piece of machinery should ever have.
There is also a small amount of what looks like brass glitter on the built up grass/grease under the bearing.

I ordered a new throwout/retainer from Hamilton's and have read enough threads about the process to replace it, but my question is: what prevents the new retainer from rotating off the fork like the broken one has done? As i sit in the seat, the current one has rotated to the left so the spots where the fork should engage -which should be at 3 and 9 o'clock are now more at 1 and 7 o clock

Thanks!

1979 184 with a 3160A Deck and McKee Sno-lander 320

Larry B
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Posts: 120
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:16 pm
Zip Code: 45325
Tractors Owned: IH 184
Location: Farmersville ohio

Re: 184 Clutch

Postby Larry B » Wed Apr 05, 2017 5:41 am

The throwout bearing carrier is just held in the release fork by the legs of the release fork against the flats on the carrier. Check the release fork for wear or the legs being bent apart.

outdoors4evr
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Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:44 pm
Zip Code: 48423
Tractors Owned: 184
Location: Davison, MI

Re: 184 Clutch

Postby outdoors4evr » Wed Apr 05, 2017 6:55 am

The fork tines should be rectangular in shape and parallel to each other. If worn, weld it up and grind it back to the proper shape. If spread apart, bang it back into shape. Also check to make sure the carrier hasn't worn. The carrier is cast so welding isn't so easy. May need to replace this.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller

pwallace
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:05 pm
Zip Code: 25414

Re: 184 Clutch

Postby pwallace » Mon Apr 10, 2017 12:31 pm

I have successfully replaced the throwout bearing/retainer and since this was the best thread I found while researching, I wanted to add my experience for the next person looking for this info. Replacement is pretty straightforward- took about 3 hours of which I did a lot of cleaning and greasing while I was there. You can replace the bearing and fork without dropping the rockshaft, (service manual says to drop it), but the mower deck coming off is a big help. Pull the tunnel cover and side panels, pull the driveshaft universal, pull driveshaft. I found it easiest to drop the fork down (I was replacing it too), put the new bearing on the driveshaft, and work the whole thing back in place, then came from under with the new fork ( flat side to the rear of tractor) and put in the frame pin and clutch arm pin. I dropped the PTO belts out of the way to slack the idler arm for little more room, but I think you could leave them on. (3/4" wrench trick makes taking off a snap to do). I replaced the fork- since my retainer spun, the arms were bent out. Fork arms should be square and spaced 1 15/16".
Good chance to clean and re-grease a zerk in the driveshaft universal, the clutch foot lever pivot, and in the throwout bearing. From what it seems to me, lack of grease on the throwout bearing where the driveshaft passes through is what caused the failure in mine- it heated up, grabbed the brass bushing sleeve, started spinning it and turned it into brass glitter before spinning the entire retainer.

Now, to figure out why the creeper gear is not engaging into low anymore (tractor came that way two years ago, so it's not a recent thing)

Also, is there a trick for dropping the rockshaft? The bolts go through the bearing blocks and frame and end in loose nuts in the frame. Because they are not tapped or welded to the frame, the nuts have to be held by another stubby wrench to be able hold to tighten. Nearly everywhere else on the frame, threads are some version of captured nut so you only have to turn the bolt into the fixed threads with one wrench. Off all the places to not used a captured nut, this one is worst- awkward rockshaft, little space, need for a small wrench, and caked grease/oil on everything.

Larry B
Cub Star
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Posts: 120
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:16 pm
Zip Code: 45325
Tractors Owned: IH 184
Location: Farmersville ohio

Re: 184 Clutch

Postby Larry B » Mon Apr 10, 2017 4:46 pm

You probably already know this but the zerk on the throwout bearing carrier only greases the shaft the carrier is on and not the throwout bearing inself. I have lost 2 throwout bearings that in turn ground the ends off the levers because of people resting their foot on the clutch pedal while mowing. Didn't take long couple hours both times. Last time I loaned it out I got to do a clutch job for my trouble. Don't let anyone rest their foot on the clutch pedal while driving the tractor.


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