154 PTO Clutch adjustment while still installed?

[seankerns]

I have a '69 154, and have had what seems to be a common problem with the PTO clutch not wanting to stay engaged. When held up, it runs the PTO, which I'm using to spin a pump for a front end loader, but won't stay up unless I clamp it in place with vise grips or similar. I have the reprinted service manual, and it gives all kinds of info on assembly and testing, including that the PTO should hold something like 85 lbs. of torque when engaged. Mine definitely does not do that - I can move the PTO by hand while it's fully engaged.

I know that Hamilton Bob's has or had rebuilt units. They're local to me, and I've had great service from them, so that is an option, but I wanted to try adjusting the lock nut before going for a rebuilt unit.

Trouble is, I can't figure out if I can do that while the PTO drive is still on the tractor, or if I have to get the thing off first. I have a 3-point on it, and I'd rather not have to remove that whole support for the arms and lift piston if I don't have to.
It looked like the way to get to the locking nut was to move that big cup forward, but it doesn't seem to be able to move forward, just back.

Do I have to remove the PTO drive to try the adjustment?
I guess I'd be several steps in the right direction if I do have to replace the whole thing.

Anybody?

Thanks,

Sean

[Benton CO AR]

If you can spin your PTO shaft with the clutch engaged (lever pulled up), you're going to have to pull the PTO.
It's not that hard. Remove the fender/ seat assembly and your just about looking at it. No need to dis assemble the three point hitch.
Once you get it on your bench, take a look at any lo boy cub website. You'll usually find a parts breakdown of the PTO clutch pretty easily.
Your problem most likely will be a bearing coming apart in one or the other of the activation cams. One is the stationary cam, the other the rotating cam.
There are three ball bearings that ride in between the cams. They ride in a groove as you pull the handle up, until they rest in a detent that keeps the cams in place and basically compresses the clutch disks and rings together. There are two cone shaped disks in the assembly that provide for the tension, but I've had bearing failures a few times over the years. Easy fix. Once you see how it works, you'll be able to tell pretty easily how it does it.
The disks and rings could be worn,,,, but I haven't seen them worn as bad to cause what you're describing, just a slipping during load.
Hamilton bob's has been my best place to get parts. They'll help you figure out what you need without neccessarily having to buy the entire assembly...a little pricey.

[seahaul]

The pto clutch will have to be taken off in order to adjust it correctly. The service manual specifies that when measuring the cam pack, there must be a difference of 0.050" between engaged and not engaged. When installed on the tractor, the cam pack is held inside the cup on the end of the front pto shaft and therefore not accessible.
However, you should not have to take off the 3-pt at all. Probably have to remove the belt driving the loader pump, take off the seat and fenders, then you can remove the pto clutch. Shouldn't be too bad.
It is important that the clutch be adjusted correctly or else the pto handle will not stay up as you reported. If the 4 friction plates inside the clutch are not worn out, it may take only doing that adjustment and you're fixed.
Let us know if this helps.
Charlie

[seankerns]

Thanks. So, today, I pulled all the stuff off the top, and following the Jensales service manual, tried to remove the PTO drive, and was mostly successful, but it's stuck on something on the drive shaft. I got the supports and brackets all off, and pulled on the short shaft, and the whole thing pulled a few inches forward, and Ive got everything out of the cup, but it won't quite come off the shaft.
I was afraid of doing damage by being too tough with it, but I called Hamilton Bob, and he says it should just slide off. It started to, but then it stuck. Bob's only guess was that maybe the needle bearings are trashed and hanging up somewhere. Ran out of time today, so tomorrow, I try to get tough with it.
I'm planning to try to adjust it first, but my guess is that won't do it, so plan B is to get a rebuilt assembly from Bob. He's local, so it's just a half hour drive over.

[seahaul]

Be sure you remove the two small bolts holding the stationary cam arm in place. The clutch assembly will not come off the shaft until that arm is free to move.

[seankerns]

Sorry, I forgot to follow up on this. I got it to where it hung up, and took a relatively soft swipe at it with a rubber mallet, and it came right off. When I examined it, the clutch discs were worn pretty smooth, and it's the later version with shims rather than a lock nut. I decided to just go with a new one from Bob's, and it worked great.

[dr john]

have a 154 with a clutch adjustment by a threaded rod below the gear shift handle---how and which way to adjust the clutch? any pics? thks

[seahaul]

This thread was started about the PTO clutch, but you are referring to the drive clutch. There are two nuts on the threaded rod. Loosen them so they are not jammed against the arm, then you can adjust the threaded rod forward or rearward by screwing the nuts. Moving the threaded rod farther toward the rear will make the clutch disengage earlier (will not have to press down the clutch pedal as far to disengage). This is done by screwing the two nuts clockwise (when facing forward). When you have it adjusted properly, tighten the two nuts against the arm again to hold them in place.