Electrical woes

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Agage1
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Electrical woes

Postby Agage1 » Thu Dec 22, 2016 8:05 pm

Finally had this thing running to the point where I could fine tune the timing and it won't start. I checked the battery voltage and it was good its brand new. Next I jumped the starter solenoid and it turned over. So I bought a new solenoid. Now just a click and it won't turn over. I replaced ignition switch and still nothing. I'm reading 12.75 volts at the solenoid terminal that runs from the battery when I turn the key I'm getting 0 volts on the other terminal. I even put on another solenoid and I'm still just getting a click. This seems simple but obviously I'm missing something. The original solenoid did nothing when I turned the key and the two new ones just click. If I cross the terminals it starts. What are the odds I have 3 bum solenoids?

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Re: Electrical woes

Postby Agage1 » Thu Dec 22, 2016 8:07 pm

By the way I picked up the new solenoids at tractor supply which seems to sell junk parts based on my experience

Jim Becker
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Re: Electrical woes

Postby Jim Becker » Thu Dec 22, 2016 9:22 pm

Make sure the solenoids are well grounded.

Larry B
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Re: Electrical woes

Postby Larry B » Thu Dec 22, 2016 11:52 pm

Assuming the new relay is has 3 terminals like Jim said make sure the mounting bracket is grounded well.
Make sure the tractor is out of gear and take a wire and connect one end to the positive of the battery and touch the other to the small terminal on the starter relay. The relay should energize the starter. If it does the relay is good and the relay and it is grounded properly.
If the relay does not energize there is a problem with either the relay or its ground connection.
If jumping the relay with a wire energizes the starter then reconnect the original wire to the relay and connect a voltmeter to the positive of the battery and the small terminal of the relay and try to start the tractor. You should see less than half a volt on the meter. If you see more than that you have some resistance in the circuit from the battery through the PTO and clutch safety switches(if used) and the ignition switch which can cause the relay not to energize completely.

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Re: Electrical woes

Postby Eugene » Fri Dec 23, 2016 4:33 am

Fully charge the battery. Jump start the tractor at the battery

Move the battery ground cable from the sheet metal to the transmission case. Clean and polish all battery and battery cable connections.

Still not start, have the new battery tested.

Edit: When the solenoid clicks, the cause is low amperage being supplied.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Electrical woes

Postby Bigdog » Fri Dec 23, 2016 2:58 pm

Check your connections and wiring. You could be dropping voltage through a poor connection or corroded wire.
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Re: Electrical woes

Postby BigBill » Fri Dec 23, 2016 10:58 pm

Use a ohm meter and check your ground battery cable. I started replacing all my battery cables. I decided to run my ground cables to the starter bracket.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

les king
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Re: Electrical woes

Postby les king » Sat Dec 24, 2016 8:24 am

Twice I have found that the bolts holding the start/gen to be corroded and not having a good connection to the frame. I use a set of jumper cables and go straight from battery to start/gen. hook negative cable to housing of start/gen and just touch the heavy wire on start/gen with pos cable . If no results ,look for brush and comuntator problems

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Re: Electrical woes

Postby Larry B » Sat Dec 24, 2016 9:17 am

From your original post you say "I jumped the starter solenoid and it turned over" I will assume that you jumped across the two large terminals and the starter turned over the engine. If so that means that the battery ground connection is good enough to start the tractor and the battery positive connection to the starter relay is good enough and the connection from the other terminal of the relay to the starter is good enough.
This means the problem is in the circuit that powers the starter relay. Most likely like Bigdog said you have a corroded connection on the positive side of the circuit. As little a 2 ohms of resistance can drop the voltage to the point things don't work and a voltage check won't show that unless the circuit is under a load. Ohm's law only works when current flows in a circuit. The simplest test you can do is jumper the small terminal of the starter relay to the big terminal on the relay that goes to the battery. If the engine cranks you have a problem with the circuit from the battery to the relay. If it doesn't crank the engine the starter relay is not grounded properly. If someone hacked up the wiring to bypass the clutch or PTO safety switches I would look there first. Also check/clean the connections on the ammeter. A voltage drop test is the best way to find corroded connections because if you measure voltage in an open circuit with no current flow you will read battery voltage through the corrosion. When a circuit is open you are just measuring potential, voltage only drops when current flows. I can't remember off hand if power for the ignition switch comes off at the battery clamp or the starter relay then to the ammeter then ignition switch then the safety switches and then to the relay. Wires never fail in the middle, pretty much always at the ends so your problem will probably be at the end of a wire. Another simple test is to connect your voltmeter to ground and the wire to the small terminal on the starter relay and try to start the engine. If you get no change on the meter you have an open, if you get battery voltage you have a circuit that may work. If there is a corroded connection you will still read battery voltage. connecting the wire to the relay and connecting your voltmeter to the battery positive and the small wire on the starter relay and trying to start the tractor will tell you if you have a corroded connection. If the meter reads more that about a half a volt you have a loose or corroded connection in the circuit.

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Re: Electrical woes

Postby Mike H » Sat Dec 24, 2016 11:14 am

yes it is possible to have 3 bad parts [bad run of parts]
years ago I had 3 bad fuel pumps from NAPA [in one day]for a car :censored:
went to carquest and got a good one.

Mike

last week first wiper motor was a bad one on the wrangler :roll:

Agage1
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Re: Electrical woes

Postby Agage1 » Wed Dec 28, 2016 7:01 pm

Just letting y'all know I ended up getting it running. I rewired the whole circuit, grounds, solenoid key switch, everything. I think the battery I bought was bad. It would test full charge but as I went to start it the voltage dropped. I replaced it and now it runs. It might have been a combination of things just find it hard to believe that a week old battery would go bad that fast. When running the tractor does charge. I put a battery disconnect on until I can see if something is drawing current when the tractor is off.


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