My friend has a 154 that is the sum total of any numbered Cub I've worked on. His latest problem: when moving the control lever, is squeals (loudly) and the hydraulic cylinder does not move. Thought it might be low on fluid, nope, chuck full. I've checked the manuals for diagnostic help but come up empty.
Any insight on the problem/solution would be appreciated.
Bill
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Hydraulic Problem
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- Bill Hudson
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77 F-Cub - Red Long Stripe - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Hydraulic Problem
Check to see if the rock shaft and or 3-point have been locked out, using a lock bar.
Diverter valve, if tractor has one or two, in wrong position.
Check for something binding. Since hydraulics are squealing, hydraulic system is probably working.
Not knowing how the hydraulic system on this tractor is plumbed. One way system, possibility that the spool valve on the control lever is not permitting the fluid to return to the reservoir, locking the system up.
There are two different plumbing hydraulic systems shown in the parts catalog. My 154 has a system not fully shown in the parts catalog. System is not complicated.
I would look for something binding first.
Diverter valve, if tractor has one or two, in wrong position.
Check for something binding. Since hydraulics are squealing, hydraulic system is probably working.
Not knowing how the hydraulic system on this tractor is plumbed. One way system, possibility that the spool valve on the control lever is not permitting the fluid to return to the reservoir, locking the system up.
There are two different plumbing hydraulic systems shown in the parts catalog. My 154 has a system not fully shown in the parts catalog. System is not complicated.
I would look for something binding first.
I have an excuse. CRS.
- Bill Hudson
- Team Cub
- Posts: 9513
- Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:50 am
- Zip Code: 44057
- Tractors Owned: 57 F-Cub - Dad & Mom's Cub
77 F-Cub - Red Long Stripe - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Madison
Re: Hydraulic Problem
Thanks, Eugene. I'm 30 miles from the tractor, so checking things out visually is a bit of a problem.
A bit of history may be helpful. The unit is in the hands of the original buyer and has had excellent care . It has been used but never abused. When the deal was struck for purchase it had a three point hitch which the buyer did not want, so the dealer removed it prior to delivery. That leads me to believe it quite possibly still has a diverter valve, somewhere. I can't remember where that might be and the Service Manual GSS-1408 Revision No. 3 is absolutely no help in locating that valve. I'm leaning toward the valve position being changed, thus leading to a deadheading condition when the control lever is being moved.
Where should I look for that diverter valve? The Owners Manual and Operators Manual have not been of any help. A search of the forum was not helpful either.
Thanks for your help.
Bill
A bit of history may be helpful. The unit is in the hands of the original buyer and has had excellent care . It has been used but never abused. When the deal was struck for purchase it had a three point hitch which the buyer did not want, so the dealer removed it prior to delivery. That leads me to believe it quite possibly still has a diverter valve, somewhere. I can't remember where that might be and the Service Manual GSS-1408 Revision No. 3 is absolutely no help in locating that valve. I'm leaning toward the valve position being changed, thus leading to a deadheading condition when the control lever is being moved.
Where should I look for that diverter valve? The Owners Manual and Operators Manual have not been of any help. A search of the forum was not helpful either.
Thanks for your help.
Bill
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Re: Hydraulic Problem
The diverter valve, a knob to pull up or push down, should be located on the panel in front of the drivers seat and between the drivers legs. I don't think the diverter valve location would be moved to another location because the hydraulic lines run under the sheet metal. Or it's quite possible the tractor didn't have a diverter valve, only a lock out for the 3-point and/or the lock out screw on the left side of the tractor (see Operator's Manual).
Since the 3-point was removed, they had to cap off the hydraulic line to the 3-point's hydraulic cylinder. Service Manual, print out the two hydraulic systems shown. Take the schematics with you when you look at the tractor.
Since the 3-point was removed, they had to cap off the hydraulic line to the 3-point's hydraulic cylinder. Service Manual, print out the two hydraulic systems shown. Take the schematics with you when you look at the tractor.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Hydraulic Problem
I have similar problem on my 154. My lift cylinder extended once and will not retract. Used 6 ft bar to apply pressure to rock shaft.Tractor is new to me. Disconnect ram from rock shaft, shaft is free. No apparent valve in hyd line. Can the hyd flex line become restricted on the inside(like automotive brake lines)?
Thanks for any help.
Steve
Thanks for any help.
Steve
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Re: Hydraulic Problem
The hydraulic cylinders on the numbered series are one way and depend on gravity (the weight of the implement) to retract.
If no implement is connected, the rockshaft will not move back to the "down/forward" position on its own.
If no implement is connected, the rockshaft will not move back to the "down/forward" position on its own.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade
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Re: Hydraulic Problem
Assuming you are inquiring about the hydraulic cylinder mounted under the center of the tractor.Scd wrote:I have similar problem on my 154. My lift cylinder extended once and will not retract. Used 6 ft bar to apply pressure to rock shaft.Tractor is new to me. Disconnect ram from rock shaft, shaft is free. No apparent valve in hyd line. Can the hyd flex line become restricted on the inside(like automotive brake lines)?
The hydraulic system on the numbered Cubs is one way. Hydraulic pressure extends the cylinder's ram, implement weight retracts the ram when the hydraulic control lever is pushed forward from the center position.
Since the cylinder's ram moved once, in order to return the ram to the closed position. Hold or fasten the hydraulic control lever to the lower implement position. ((Works best with 2 people.)) Then use the bar on the rock shaft to close the cylinder. The other option is to reinstall the mower deck.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Hydraulic Problem
Thanks Eugene
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Re: Hydraulic Problem
Squeals sound like the hydraulics is dead ending, like a limit on a cylinder. Bad clogged hose? Hoses can break on the inside stopping the oil flow.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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Re: Hydraulic Problem
Scd wrote:I have similar problem on my 154. My lift cylinder extended once and will not retract. Used 6 ft bar to apply pressure to rock shaft.Tractor is new to me. Disconnect ram from rock shaft, shaft is free. No apparent valve in hyd line. Can the hyd flex line become restricted on the inside(like automotive brake lines)?
Thanks for any help.
Steve
If you want to move the cylinder ram manually make sure that the control lever is pushed forward and locks into the float position. This will allow the cylinder to move fluid in the system. If the control lever is in the middle position it locks fluid movement to the cylinder.
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Re: Hydraulic Problem
Larry B wrote:Scd wrote:I have similar problem on my 154. My lift cylinder extended once and will not retract. Used 6 ft bar to apply pressure to rock shaft.Tractor is new to me. Disconnect ram from rock shaft, shaft is free. No apparent valve in hyd line. Can the hyd flex line become restricted on the inside(like automotive brake lines)?
Thanks for any help.
Steve
If you want to move the cylinder ram manually make sure that the control lever is pushed forward and locks into the float position. This will allow the cylinder to move fluid in the system. If the control lever is in the middle position it locks fluid movement to the cylinder.
Oops just saw eugene's post. What he said. ......
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