weed spray

[Merlin]

what is the wild rubarb weed actually called. i have alot of that stuff around my place and i cant kill it no matter how hard i try. i usually pull it up but it still comes back!!! i am going to look for that 2-4-D stuff now. thanks!!! john

Burdock. If it's not burdock take a sample into your local extension office. They can identify it for you. Also, there are a number of gardening books available with common weed examples depicted.

Eugene

It sounds like what we call Yellowdock. Eugene is correct about taking it to your extension office and let them identify it for sure.

[Bill Hudson]

JBall8019 wrote

"what is the wild rubarb weed actually called. i have alot of that stuff around my place and i cant kill it no matter how hard i try. i usually pull it up but it still comes back!!! i am going to look for that 2-4-D stuff now.
thanks!!!
john"

It has been suggested that you take a sample to your local Extension office. For you, the office is in Cortland, at 520 West Main, Suite #1. Take the sample in and Steve Hudkins will be able to help you. Tell him Bill Hudson sent you.

Good luck.

Bill

[technova]

I was told by the local feed mill that the wild rhubarb was Burdock.
He also suggested crop oil with the 2 4 D to reduce the drift.
He had another product he said was better and wouldn't hurt the trees but is was around $500 for 2 1/2 gallons! The 2 4 D and crop oil totalled $73 for 2 1/2 gal of each.
I did the open areas, stayed away fron the trees. I am going to check and see if I can use it next spring before the trees leaf out.
It took care of the dandelion, the Burdock usually comes later in the year.
The thistle either thrives on 2 4 D or the dandelion got knocked back enough that I can see alot more thistle now. I may try a second App. later.
Thanks.

[LiL' Red]

Trimec has done a good job for me. It will take care of dandelions,plantains,white clover,as well as many others. It will however drift similar to 2 4D.

[technova]

Does anyone know of a granular product that works similar to 2-4-D?
I used 2-4-D and am happy with the results but I would like to get closer to the trees with a drop or broadcast spreader.
I do not want a fertilizer, it grows too fast already I just want to reduce the dandelion and thistle.

[Billy Fussell]

Did I read somewhere or just dream it, that 2 4 5 T, Agent Orange, has been reformulated and is back on the market? I need something that will kill trees. China berry to be exact. Some blew down during Rita. I have cut them up, but can't get the root ball out, and they keep sprouting.

Billy

[ScottyD'sdad]

Try appying 2 4 D or roundup , brushed on to the bark and cut edges of the stumps,full strength as it comes in the container . It has worked for me on a number of different species of trees and brush. Ed

[Don McCombs]

Garlon 4 will work on woody stumps. Follow the label instructions.

[FarmLadyWannaB]

I've never heard of 2-4-D. Is it sold under that name or under a brand name--and anyone know if it's sold in New England? I've used Roundup, Rodeo and at the moment I have the Agway brand ('Kleenup')--are they stronger or weaker than 2-4-D?

This spring I made the mistake of lightly tilling & then mulching (with composted manure & leaf compost) the garden area I inherited from the previous owner PLUS a big expansion. Given all the other chores & jobs attending our first year in the new place, this 'ideal' garden area was WAY larger than I could manage. I thought all that mulch would keep the weeds down. WRONG! I pull, yank, & mow but I've still got a bumper crop of noxious perennial weeds. Many are sprouting out of buried tendrils--brambles, vines, a horrible triffid plant that will grow out of the tiniest part of root that you didn't get... dandelions are a cinch by comparison. I'm getting desperate. I'm contemplating one dose of weed killer over the worst parts, then a light tilling & planting 'smother' crops like buckwheat. Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
The Farm Lady

[Eugene]

Vegatable garden size. I have several rather small garden plots. 3' x 3'. 1' x 6' and 3' x 16'. Provides more vegatables that wife and I can use. Makes weeding a managable chore. Broken into several small jobs.

On your kill everything suggestion. That is what I would do. I would deep till the soil. Plant the green manure. Next spring deep till again.

Big problem with weed seeds is that they can remain dormant for many years. It may take several years to get the garden plot into shape.

Nice to see you posting again. No summer classes?

Eugene

[ScottyD'sdad]

Weed b gone is one of the trade names for 2 4 D. many of the broad leaf weed killers sold at hardware stores, garden shops, Home Depot, etc. contain it. Check the ingredient list on the label. Ed

[FarmLadyWannaB]

Hi Eugene! Yes, I'm teaching 3 summer classes--but online; right now I am on the last one, thank goodness. That means I do the work too late at night and on rainy mornings like today (Saturday in Western Mass.--WOW! did we have some thunder corkers this morning! Got me out of bed--about 2 foot in the air!)

Thanks, all, for the weed advice: I found 2 4 D right away as the primary ingredient in the 'kill weeds but not grass' category (got some on a great sale--'spot weed killer' and a concentrate for spraying your lawn in the spring, like Scott's Step 2). Round-Up, Rodeo & the Agway product are 'kill everything' sprays that use the ingredient GLYPHOSPHATE. That's for desperate measures, but that's about where I am at the moment. I'm also going to do the newspaper smother trick: layer newspaper (thickly) over your garden bed, wet it/weight it down (the logistical problem is that dry paper blows away, duh), maybe shovel manure on it, and just leave it. Fortunately I have a pile of debris from gutting our kitchen, with lots of pieces of panelling and plywood--if you have scrap pieces like that, those are GREAT for smothering the weeds and keeping them from encroaching on your rows. We pulled out a ceiling full of '60s fiberboard 'tiles' and I'm using them between the rows. Anyway, till it all in next spring (not the lumber ) and I'm told you'll have smothered most of the weeds. I'm still skeptical--these weeds are the Arnold Schwarzeneggers of weeds! But I'll try it.
I do know it takes years to build or rejuvenate a garden bed... I was just getting my garden in eastern Connecticut to be productive, sigh, after 10 years BUT my joyful discovery is that the soil here is FABULOUS! ANYTHING will grow in it. I've never seen a bigger summer squash plant, and my beans are growing like triffids. The happy thing is that, as I reclaim area from the weeds, and have more time ( ) this garden is going to be a big producer!

Thanks again, Farm Lady Jocelyn

[Rudi]

Eugene:

Thanks for the name.. I knew it once, and it is one that is hard for me to remember, but I gots it now. We have lots of it here as well. It is a royal pain in the posterior.. and it gets it seed spread by animals or humans who come in contact with the burr.



Courtesy of Wikipedia the Free Dictionary.

Burdock

[flyawa]

I've had good results with "Tordon" for getting rid of brushy type plants. It also will kill poison ivy that is prevalent around here.

[Eugene]

Burdock. I use Roundup - realy soak the plant. Works well.

Another thought. The local farm and ranch store has a good sized booklet (free) listing herbicides. Lists commercial brand names and their generic names. Plants and generic names suitable for the plant. Also mix rate per acre. Actually the booklet is quite extensive, about 140 pages. Sample section titles: Household chemicals of insects. Household chemicals for/garden/lawn/ weeds. Sweet corn. Pop corn. Brush control. Also different crops.

OK. Just found the booklet. Titled "2007 Agronomy Guide". Put out by MFA Inc. Columbia, Missouri. I don't know if the phone number or web site are still valid -- For free copies call (573) 874-5111. http://www.mfa-inc.com