tomatoes

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tomatoes

Postby ih-cubcadet-man » Thu Jul 10, 2008 11:41 am

i have a problem in the garden,for the last few years my first picking of tomatoes,they rot from the bottom, just as they ripen, no bugs, just rotten, the second or third batch finnaly are good ,, please help
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Re: tomatoes

Postby Pete1941 » Thu Jul 10, 2008 1:22 pm

This is a common occurence with tomatoes and is known as Blossom End Rot. It is supposed to signify a lack of calcium in the soil. I have tried supplementing with calcium but still have the same problem and as you say, after the first ripening of the tomatoes have gone, so does the blossom end rot. I have used cotton seed meal and bone meal in each hole at transplanting time in the past and it seems to help, however, it doesn't cure the problem entirely. Pete
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Re: tomatoes

Postby paw's49 » Thu Jul 10, 2008 2:32 pm

I have this problem every year. Seems like it's always the first few tomatoes, and after that, all is well, so I don't worry about it. I think I've picked 3 so far that had it; all that followed were GOOD EATIN!! :thumbsup:
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Re: tomatoes

Postby Don McCombs » Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:26 pm

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Re: tomatoes

Postby Bill Hudson » Thu Jul 10, 2008 8:04 pm

Don McCombs wrote:For your reading pleasure. :D

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3117.html


Don,

You beat me to it!!!!! Seems that a retired County Extension Agent should be faster than that. You might want to consider a second career. :) :)

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Re: tomatoes

Postby Don McCombs » Thu Jul 10, 2008 8:10 pm

Bill,

I even picked the Ohio Extension version. :D
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Re: tomatoes

Postby Bill Hudson » Thu Jul 10, 2008 8:19 pm

Don McCombs wrote:Bill,

I even picked the Ohio Extension version. :D


Don,

I admire your obvious good judgement. :)

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Re: tomatoes

Postby ih-cubcadet-man » Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:45 am

thanks guys. great article don
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Re: tomatoes

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Jul 11, 2008 7:42 am

Another item that will cause blossom end rot is if they get too dry and start drawing moisture from the tomato to support the rest of the plant, though this does not appear to be the cause in your case.
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Re: tomatoes

Postby beaconlight » Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:03 pm

Thanks. I printed it out for Bev. We don't have any ripe here on Staten Island yet
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Re: tomatoes

Postby Billy Fussell » Sat Jul 12, 2008 7:32 am

I plant my tomatos like Pete does. When I streak off the garden where my tomatos will go, I broadcast the lime along the row. May not be putting down enough. What if I put a handfull of lime in the hole along with the bone meal? Would the concentration of the lime so close to the root cause any damage to the plant? I do spray with a spray to stop the blossom end rot. The first tomatos to come on the vine do rot. Your thoughts.

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Re: tomatoes

Postby Bill Hudson » Sat Jul 12, 2008 8:01 am

Billy Fussell wrote:I plant my tomatos like Pete does. When I streak off the garden where my tomatos will go, I broadcast the lime along the row. May not be putting down enough. What if I put a handfull of lime in the hole along with the bone meal? Would the concentration of the lime so close to the root cause any damage to the plant? I do spray with a spray to stop the blossom end rot. The first tomatos to come on the vine do rot. Your thoughts.

Billy


Billy,

As for placing lime in the transplant hole or broadcasting along the row, here are some things to consider:
- Lime takes about 6 months to get in fully into the soil solution, so this approach may not help solve the problem this year..
- Lime works better when it is throughout the upper 6 to 8 inches of the soil profile, not in spots or narrow bands.
- Lack of calcium causes the problem. Raising the soil pH with lime will help solve your problem, however, there are 2 types of lime, dolomitic and calcitic. DO NOT USE dolomitic in this situation. Dolomitic limestone has a high level of magnesium and will not be as effective as the calcitic. Both limes increase soil pH, however, stay with the calcitic.
- Pay attention to the nitrogen source in your fertilizer. Do not use fertilizer whose nitrogen source is ammonia based.
- Your most cost effective solution is to test your soil to find out the nutritional status of the soil. A ~$15 soil test can really help you get better production effectively. As we say in Ohio "Don't guess, soil test," it really does work.
- Review the Fact Sheet Don referred to and ask more questions, if there is something you do not understand.

I hope this helps. GIG'EM AGGIES!!!

Bill
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Re: tomatoes

Postby Billy Fussell » Sat Jul 12, 2008 3:56 pm

Bill,

Thanks for the reply. I am planting in an area where there has been a garden forever. The soil is probably depleated by now. For next year, I will get my soil tested. Thanks again.

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Re: tomatoes

Postby Bill Hudson » Sat Jul 12, 2008 3:58 pm

Billy Fussell wrote:Bill,

Thanks for the reply. I am planting in an area where there has been a garden forever. The soil is probably depleated by now. For next year, I will get my soil tested. Thanks again.

Billy


Billy,

I'm glad to be of help. Better luck next year.

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