Sun Sep 27, 2009 6:17 pm
Do you always trun over the soil in the fall and again in the spring befor planting?
Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:03 pm
The answer really depends on what you want to accomplish. Some ideas/thoughts.
My current garden. I'm going to broadcast winter rye and harrow in. Next spring plow.
New ground, garden plot for next year. Fertilized, plowed, disked, harrowed, seeded to winter rye and harrowed again. Next spring plowed as deep as I can get. Both garden plots are on a slight slope.
Neighbors has a large flat garden. Couple of previous years it was a garden, then hay, then garden again this year. Neighbors plowed the garden deep and will leave it rough until next spring.
Mon Sep 28, 2009 7:44 am
Lots of things to consider. Intended use, soil test, drainage, climate, etc. A cover crop is usually recommended for a garden. Rye, vetch, and clover are popular. A cover crop will stop erosion if that's a problem and any legume will fix nitrogen for next years use. The old saying 'plow in the fall and harrow in the spring' is good if you have perfect soil. The idea there is to plow the soil rough so it goes threw freeze thaw cycles in the winter. That helps break down clay. If you have sandy loam just harrow to help prevent weeds and bugs that over winter. A common mistake is to plow too deep. Most garden crops have shallow root systems so a few inches is good enough. Deep plowing mixes the poor soil down deep with the good soil you have been working with up top. I have three gardens and each has it's own use and type of soil. So, get a soil test and see how much compaction the soil has. From that there several very good growers on this forum. Lots of good information here. Let us know before first frost.
Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:14 pm
NOT to p off anybody here,----BUT here in Il., it's subsoil 18"to 24" deep in fall THEN moldboard plow deep,(at least 12"min., I usually get closer to 16",--but that's just me!) ---then let lay rough and weather out,--(freeze deep to get rid of lots of pests and diseases, and catch and hold water/snow),---then in early spring start tilling it and it comes out fine and makes excellent seed bed,---dries early on top, but holds a full season's moisture down in the root zone and coaxes the plant roots to come on down , making for some very healthy plants and good crops!
Now this has been my method for the gardens and the crops that we grew using this method, so I know it works! (the proof is in the garden pics. of our gardens)!
I made a small subsoiler, but like the big one better!----actually "tiger plow" is the best!( I made it too,---used to do the fields at the farm with it when I was able to farm)-----If anyone wants, I can post pics of them!
If your garden is on a hill,--Work across the slope and it wont wash! Thank You for taking the time to read this post! sonny
Sun Oct 04, 2009 9:03 am
As has been said, a lot depends on location and soil conditions. My garden has a lot of clay, and is located a ways down a hill where it gets quite a bit of water form higher up, so it tends to dry late in the spring. I tunr mine in the fall after the last of the crops are out (probably this week), and leave it laying rough till spring. this helps it dry quicker in the spring. I do not have any flat ground, so I always plow throwing the soil up hill. this takes longer, since I have to circle back for each furrow rather than just turning around, but reduces the soil migrating down the hill.
Sun Oct 04, 2009 12:52 pm
My part of the country is known for many great things. Like Danial Boone, Blue Grass Music, rocks, and red clay. Remember the old song "Old Rocky Top"? Well that's me. Our subsoil, in places, is only 6-12." I envy the folks in the mid west that can grow deep root crops. A usual part of annual tillage is pulling a York rake. If you don't have one a good part of your life is picking up rocks by hand. That's another reason we had low paid field workers before the war. Like I said mixing clay and rocks with the top soil is counter productive. A Cub will pull a single bottom maybe 8" deep. The A will pull a 2 bottom about 8-10 inches. That same 2 bottom requires the H to go any deeper. I guess our ancestors planted Burly tobacco because of the short root system. The Midwest will continue to be the bread basket. I'll continue spittin' tobacco juice and huntin' coons.
Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:06 am
Location WILL dictate what will work for you and thats what you have to go with.----I only state what I do here to get any crops at all!
Not sure if all 3 of my cubs hooked together would pull the cub plow in this ground---just know that a single cub wont!--(been there, tried it, didnt get 20 feet) The 404 BARELY pulls the 2-14 at the foot deep that I call "shallow plowing" here, thats why I made the big 1 bottom hi-clearance plow for it so I can get deeper!
We have black dirt here 4 to 6 feet deep before we hit orange clay, so deep tillage is really a must for us! thanks; sonny
Mon Oct 05, 2009 12:43 pm
Sonny, I sure would like to see a picture of your plows......judging from your gardening pictures you're obviously doing it right. Thanks Mike
Wed Oct 07, 2009 8:37 am
My fall preperation;
Right now I'm trucking 4 year old manure into my little corn field. I'm putting it 2" to 3" thick completely covering the soil i just tilled under. Once the field is covered I will till it and lime it. Next my fallen leaves will go on top of it for its long winter sleep. My veggie garden will get the same treatment too. I probably will move 10 cubic yards of manure just this fall.
I'm tired of watching my corn not growing tall. Next year its a whole new ball game my corn will be like jack and the bean stalk.
Come spring my preperation;
I will till it up again and repeat my fall preperation by adding more manure and then tilling it for planting corn.
Keep in mind this is newly tilled up grass and its never been planted before. I need to richen up the soil first.
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