chainsaw bar lube

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Postby jostev » Wed Jan 18, 2006 8:51 pm

ljw, that's what we use also, works great!

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Postby beaconlight » Thu Jan 19, 2006 4:23 pm

There are carbide tipped chains. Zip Pen used to have them. They were a big out fir back in the 70's. They are smaller and have a diffferent name now. can't think of it at the minute.
My son and I had a tree cutting business when he first got out of high school. We used a belsaw sharpener. We kept all our sharpened chains stored in a gallon can filled 50 50 with kero and 30 wt non detergent. We would change 3 0r 4 chains a day and just touch them up. We would sharpen a chain 20 or more times. Every now and then we had to take the depth rakers down so you get sufficient bite. You don't want to take them too far or you get chatter or hogging. A loose chain will chatter and hammer the bar. Trying to cut with a dull chain is the worst enemy of a chain saw. You want to see chips flying out and not dust. Most home owner type saws are underpowered from what I see. I still cut and use 10 cord a year.

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Postby ljw » Fri Jan 20, 2006 7:13 am

I just cut a couple of trees down. They had been dead for some time, the branches having fallen off.
Image
This shows the slanted cutting that happens when the chain isn't sharpened equally. I'm a little out of practice. :oops: I could have done better if I hadn't operated the chainsaw with one hand and held my favorite beverage with the other. :shock: That's what it looks like, anyway.
Image
This is a beech tree that was hollow at the base.
Image
You have to be very careful when cutting a hollow base tree. One just doesn't know if the stump will break away in the process of cutting it down.
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Postby beaconlight » Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:36 am

Hollow trees are the worst. They are the unmost dangerous. I generally try to cut the above the rot if in the open or bring them down in small pieces if not. One fell 90 degrees from where it was supposed to because of the rot.

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