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One thing to keep in mind, i am glad i did, unless your shop is heated 24/7 or in an environment that doesnt get cold, it will take them flouscents lights a while to warm up to achieve full optium. That has been my experience in the past. That is why in my new shop i put both regular bulb and flo's. I use the bulds when i first go out, switch over to the flos after the shop is warmed up...... If i need a lot of light, i use both..... here is a picture.
more pics here
http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b46/v ... 202005-06/
Unfortunately, the file sizes for the magazine articles are too large for me to e-mail, so I'll send them on Monday from work.
Sorry for the delay,
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
One thing i forgot to mention, is i also plan on using a couple of sky-light panels on each side of the roof. I havn't thought about insulation yet.
Heat will probably be a upright barrel stove in the corner. As the winters are mild here by most folks standards, i'm sure it'll be plenty. As for electrical, i am running a buried 100amp branch from the house, and a empty conduit for later additions (phone, intercom, etc..). I thought about a dedicated service at 100 or 200 amps, but for same cost i can hook onto my current service, i have plenty of room and capacity in the panel since i changed from electric to gas heat.
Just an afternote I only had 1 line to my garage (110) . Every time I tried using a drill or whatever the lights would dim so I ran another for 220v to a separate breaker box. I run only lights (except 1) off of the original line and put a box for my welder and receptacles (sp) off the other line. I bought the cheap Lowe's 4 ft lights and a case of bulbs (Phillips F40CW 40 watt.) I can go to my garage when the temp is 0 to 10 degrees and they always light up. once in a while a couple of them will flicker for a little while but works fine for me. Never thought about the motion light for a quick get in and out but will steal the idea. Grump
David Dee Mock-Leonard
Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints
The room I'm typing from is a windowless room between the shop and the rest of the house. There's an alert little man in a magic box on the wall who has been turning on the lights for me for 15 years regardless which door I enter from. He never fails, but sometimes he turns them off if I remain motionless too long. That's when I flap my arms. He has relatives in both garages, my shop, and the pole barn to turn lights on. Pretty clever family!
My shop is in 3 parts. The main area is 18 x 34. The lighting in that area is 6 incandesent bulbs and 34 4' tubes. I HATE using drop cords. I do keep several flashlights scattered around for seeing details. My eyes are 72 years old.
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
Russell, when I started planning my tractor shed I was considering skylight panels, but after talking to several people who had them, and contractors, I changed my mind. Complaints of them leaking when they aged was common, and everyone recomended I stay away from them.
As to insulation, you may want to consider the type you get in large rolls, and put over the framework before the metal is added. Supposed to work pretyt good.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
I agree with what John said, I did not put the ceiling panels in for that reason, and wished i would have put that style of insulation in, but who knew i would end up heating my pole barn.... To work on tractors of all things.......
I've also thought about some drop cords from the cieling, placed to the sides of the drive-in areas, so they won't get hung by accident. We had that set up in school around all the work tables and work areas, kept ext. cord use to the mininum. They where on a string so you could pull them up when you didn't need them, but hung to about chest height when lowered.
Also going to build a small exterior closet on the side, to keep the compressor in. Will control it with a remote disconnect. Keeps the noise outside and the compressor in a cleaner environment (no weld smoke, paint fume, saw dust, etc...). My compressor cold starts pretty good down to 10degrees, so it should work pretty well.
In my shop I have a few types of lighting, but I have also ensured that all my lighting is on separate circuits from my general outlet circuits.. In the main shop, it is H/O Flourescent 2x40w 8ft tubes -- 5 sets. I also am using specialty lighting at the specific tools - this is an ongoing project. I have found that H/O is great for general lighting needs, but does leave a lot to be desired when directed light is needed. Good halogen or incandescent lights on articulated arms are really useful. I even have a couple of those inexpensive magnifier lens/articulated lighting fixtures for when you really need to see something small.
Depending on the height of your ceilings, wattage may have to increased for halogen or incandescent lighting. But for flourescent, the DayLight are about the very best for good clean lighting. Useful for both wood and metal working.
Do keep in mind though, that when you are working on say the band saw, drill press, bench grinder etc., that directed/articulated lighting is a real boone. Also, sheilded trouble lights are also useful. I sometimes yearn for a ceiling mounted spring tripped reel system that would allow me to have a couple of ceiling mounted - shop wide available auxillary plugs for tools and the trouble lights.. but I make do with extension cords for the time being. One must always have a wish list
In my finishing room I have wrap-around lighting. These are 2x40wx8 foot flourescent fixtures -- in my 10x10 foot finishing room there are 5 sets as well. 2 ceiling mounts and 3 wall mounts. I also use directed lighting (halogens) as needed.
Compressor room or shed is a good idea. Direct inlet feeds from the exterior is a good idea. My compressor is fed with clean exterior air that is pre-filtered outside the shop. It is also enclosed in my furnace room to deaden the noise. It is also mounted on rubber feet and on floor dogs (4x4)'s to help prevent walking and excess vibration. The compressor is on it's own 220v 40Amp breaker controlled circuit with a separate box from the main panel. My arc welder is also on a separate 220v circuit, but it is in the main panel and can be switched off if necessary. My MIG welder is on a dedicated 110v 20Amp circuit.
My air lines are all regulated, filtered and are ceiling mounted coils except in the finishing room where is it just hose. I find that easier. I have extra coils around to allow extended range for the hoses. The only thing I could not afford so far is a dryer for the system, so oil/water separators are what I use. I am looking into access point desicant type dryers for the shop though... they may be useful and less expensive than a shopwide dryer which is like thousands of bucks..
Rudi, could you please post or email some photos of how you have mounted your compressor?
MD, Deep Creek Lake
"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
My shop is 32x40 and I have 5 banks of 3 (4 bulb, 4'x2') fixtures plus a 2 bulb 8' fixture over my work bench. I have a seperate switch for each bank and a switch for over the bench. I found a used lighted EXIT sign with battery back up over my entrance door. I'm planning on hanging another 2 bulb x4' fixture over my metal lathe. You can never have enough light!
1951 Farmall Cub, 1979 International 184 with a 1050A Loader (Thanks JP Tractor salvage), 1945 Farmall H, 1934 & 1935 F-12's
Ooooops.. I forgot. Hopefully I will get out to the shop in the next day or so -- supposed to snow.. so maybe I can get some seat time. If so, then I will bring the little camera with me.. and post the pic..
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