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10 posts • Page 1 of 1
As most of you saw i finally got my garage/wood shop built. (photobucket, videodoc, garage 2005).
Anxious to start on the inside, to have my dream wood shop. My question is, should i go to the expense of drywall underneath the peg board/panelling walls. or go direct with the peg board/paneling.
plan is to have paneling up to 4ft or so, then peg board, 4-8 ft and then paneling 8-10 ft (wall height)
if i do dry wall, will have to space peg board out from wall. and the paneling, to make it look right. but will have a better insulated area.
if i dont do dry wall, everything mounts easy to the wall, no spacing needed.
either way will insulate shop side well.
wanting others insights.
keep in mind the "friends" did not put up a moisture barrier between the osb sheeting (walls) and the siding. (or under the sill plate for that matter - did caulk it though) which means i may need my walls to breathe a little.
The vapor barrier definitely belongs on the heated side of the insulation, not under the siding. It's purpose is to keep moisture from the heated side from condensing in the cooler side of the insulation. Walls should breathe to the outside, if at all.
Definitely install the drywall to protect the (inside) vapor barrier and insulation.
If you have enough wall space to allow wasting it with pegboard, you've built your shop too big. It's a very inefficient way to store anything. Trust me... you'll run out of wall space too soon to waste it.
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
I would install Dry wall for 2 reasons (excluding any insurance reasons). 1. Insulation would be better.
2. If for some reason the peg board warps you could loose things behind the paneling.
I have shelves with old tennis ball cans for small items so they are easily visible and contained.
Just my 2 cents.
My garage shop was insulated with 2" foam bought as seconds from the Amish for penny's on the dollar. Next I'm putting up interior grade white steel just as I've done on the ceiling. Its the most economical, durable thing I've found for a garage. Its already white, aides in lighting and washes if need be, and you can't poke a hole in it. Also it goes up fast and was light weight for the ceiling. Where you want to mount to the wall just run 2x's across the ribs and screw into the wood behind. I've seen other shops this way and decided on it myself.
When I built my shop I built it for a professional use... I own (still do actually) a custom casework, cabinet/furniture shop.
I built my building as economically as possible back in 1990, with the intentions to finish it in the next year or two....so exeterior finishes was not a major concern. Interior was.
When I do the exterior, after I resheet with good veneer core plywood sheeting, it will be wrapped with Tyvek and then vinyl siding to match my house.
However, the most important details were inside the building.
2x6 stud walls (over kill at that time) R-30 inuslation, 4 mil vapour barrier and drywalled. Walls are 10 foot high. Drywall was taped, filled, sanded, primed and 2 coats GOOD quality paint.
I once toyed with peg board or slatwall storage systems, but I quickly determined as George so succinctly said are just a HUGE waste of space. The majority of my tools are stored in cabinets. Cabinets provide varied storage solutions, optimize space and are excellent additional work areas.
I have large power tool areas and each of these areas also either include cabinets or storage systems to maximize utilization of space. One never has enough room for ones tools..
In my opinion, and that is just that, my opinion peg board and slat wall are a kingsized waste of space and money. Forget it. Build yourself some nice cabinets. MDF makes a pretty good material to build them thar neat boxes which once joined together can provide strong, relatively long lasting storage and work areas for reasonable cost. Melamine coated particle board is also a solution.
oh, Drywall is rated at 1/2 hour per 1/2" of gyproc. For around 5 bucks a sheet, fair deal. Aspenite or what it is now know as Orientated Strand Board or OSB if it has a finished face is also rated for 1/2 hour but it more expensive at least by a factor of 2. However, with the finished face, it also has been shellacked or varnished which would eliminate the need to paint, which may also provide a balance in choices. I like OSB as it is prettier, but I felt the shop would be cleaner with drywall.
I drywalled my garage with "type X" 5/8" fire-rated drywall, over 4" of fiberglass foil-faced insulation. I think that it has a fire rating of one hour. Definately helped when the insurance agent came out for an audit of the property...........
well, i'm getting there, slow but sure. all the wiring is done, insulation is up, ceiling is done, and the walls are up. i'll be muddding today, and tomorrow, and ...... i'm sure.
this is what i been up to. man it goes a lot faster when you have help. kinda slow when its just me. anyway, thats where ive been. been checking in everyonce in a while.
view from southeast corner
view from northwest corner
10 posts • Page 1 of 1
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