Anything that might not belong on the other message boards!
Moderator: Team Cub
1. Keep it clean.
2. Keep the discussion civil.
3. Name calling is not allowed.
Politics and religion are two topics that tend to degenerate into a violation of one of the three simple rules above.
The mods and the site admin reserve the right to "lock" or "delete" any discussion that in our opinion, is "heading in the wrong direction."
MOST of all, be respectful of your fellow Cubber's opinions. Don't expect to change someones belief system from a simple forum on the internet.
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
AND THE WINNER IS >>>>>>>>THE RUST !!
Well, the fittings on the caddy's fuel filter were just too rusty. They would NOT come loose. With all the fiddling around trying to get them loose, the metal part of the supply line broke just where it disappears over the top of the fuel tank....UGH !!
There's no way to just 'splice in' another fuel filter. This type of injection system runs on about 40psi and has to have the right stuff or it ain't safe!
The cost of the special tool that will create the special flare is PROHIBITIVE even if there was enough line in good shape to work with. The fittings are supposed to be 'quick disconnect'...yeah right!
Thus, the car is out of the garage and in the drive next to the barn till I can trailer it to the shop and get it on a lift since the tank has to be dropped. Getting it onto the trailer is a chore the cub can handle I hope since we cannot start the car now.
Subsequently, the garage is clean and my lovely understanding wife has her winter spot back and is a happy camper.
On the other hand, I know everything we touch on top of that tank is gonna turn to crap too......I already know I'll be replacing the supply and return lines; along with the vent line. But I just know those fittings at the top of the tank won't budge either. I guess we'll be looking at getting a new fuel pump; new sending unit (digital readout system $$$$$$$$$; and the metal lines that go from that stuff over to the flex lines at the body. YUK. May as well line up a source for a new tank just in case!
Well, it sure has given us plenty of father and son time so far though!! So far, there's hours of troubleshooting; hours of shooting the **** over a beer or two; replace the battery; new exhaust from the converter back; all new brake lines from master cyl to all 4 corners; 2 new front calipers; both rear air ride struts; an assortment of new light bulbs; and a few other misc fixes, with a few left to go......whew ! Well it'll be after Turkey Day for sure before we can find 'shop' time.....here goes nuttin !! but should be a nice ride when it's done !!
Sorry it didn't turn out better. regarding the special flare tool, if there is engouh room for a flare, check with your local autozone if you have one. They "loan" out tools. You have to pay the prie of the tool when you pick it up, but get your entire price back when you return it. Others such as O'reilly may do the same, I don't know.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
There is no room to get in there....there is not enough exposed line to do it. The only options left are: A)drop the tank....or B) dump the car somewhere!!!!!!
Marion, You may want to look around the trunk area. I know many cars now have a panel that can be removed to allow access to the lines/sending unit without removing the tank.
Also many of your better parts stores carry or can get repair sections for the newer fuel hoses and lines. It's worth looking into.
The fuel filter fittings should be the type with the viton o-ring right? I've purchased the replacement tubes and nuts at the auto store. It was at Advance Auto Parts. I think that they are a chain of auto part stores linked with Checker Auto. The tubes are around 12" long and they are stainless steel and come with all the necessary fittings to make the splice. If I recall they were around $15.00 each. It sure beats fighting with the rusted ones.
I hope this helps,
1951 Farmall Cub, 1979 International 184 with a 1050A Loader (Thanks JP Tractor salvage), 1945 Farmall H, 1934 & 1935 F-12's
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Ray 59 and 1 guest