Chimney Pipe in a barn

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Chimney Pipe in a barn

Postby Paul_NJ » Fri Dec 02, 2005 8:43 am

Hello Again

When I reroofed my barn-converted-to-workshop several years ago, I anticipated a wood burning stove in the future, and installed a conical flashing piece to the new roofing before putting down the shingles. It has an 8” opening. The stove sits right in the center of the barn, and the pipe goes straight up to the roof. The used woodburning stove I recently purchased (Timberline) has a 8” opening.

Problem: I now realize I can run 8” stovepipe the 12 feet up to the roof, but must transition to a 4 foot length of double walled chimney pipe piece thru the roof and out. Problem is that in order to keep an ID of 8” all the way, the OD of the chimney pipe goes to 10”. Not wanting to tear up my roof to put in a 10” flashing cone, is there any reason why I can’t cut off as many inches of the existing cone as necessasiry to increase the opening to 10”?

Hope I described this well enough. I’d appreciate any thoughts and help.
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Postby Bruce Sanford » Fri Dec 02, 2005 8:53 am

Paul

If you check with local fire dept,you will find that you need at least a 2 inch
clearance around a bouble wall metal chimney pipe. From combustables.Your insurance company will require an inspection as well.Been there done all that. 8) :) Bruce
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Postby WKPoor » Fri Dec 02, 2005 8:16 pm

I have a buck stove with 8" exhaust I plan on reducing to 6". Maybe your stove would be alright with 6" all the way up instead of 8"
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Postby ljw » Fri Dec 02, 2005 9:19 pm

I just moved my wood burning stove to the back of the house this year. And I had to cut a new opening. It's really not that bad. First I positioned the stove and used a plumbob to determine where to cut the hole, making sure it didn't interfere with the ceiling joists. To remove the old flashing just take a flat pry bar and gently pry up the shingles. When the new hole is cut in the roof make certain the measurements are taken from the horizontal. When looking from the roof slope the hole with be oval-shaped. I had to use my old flashing. I tried to buy a new one and was told that due to the high demand they were on backorder and didn't lnow when they would come in.
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Postby Rudi » Sat Dec 03, 2005 7:55 am

Paul:

Don't even go there. Do yourself a favour and check with your fire marshal or local fire department codes. Be in line with those and you should be okay with your insurance agent. Don't be askin them much yet..

My insurance claim adjuster, who I happened to do business with, advised me to report any and all occurences of chimney fire to the company so that they could use it in data reference for rating chimneys. Said it would not hurt my rates.

Right.. man I must have been on major drugs to have believed that one. Instead of recovering the costs of a damaged chimney after a number of chimney fires (chimney lining was defective), the insurance company paid for it themselves. THEN, the morons decided that my rates should increase. Went from a $200.00 deductible to a $5,000.00 deductible. Took us 10 years to get them to take their heads out of where the sun don't shine and fix it... now I have a $500.00 deductible.

Do yourself a favour... check with the fire marshal/department and you state/local building codes. Once armed with all that information, you can't get taken by your insurance..

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Postby 400lbsonacubseatspring » Mon Dec 12, 2005 12:13 am

Paul,

was your existing structure ever inspected by your insurance company...in short...are they aware that the stove hasn't been installed for some years?

If no one has ever seen the inside of your shop, I'd go with what is safe and reasonable. I'm not advocating insurance fraud, I'm just saying that a good, safe installation is the best insurance there is.

I personally don't like the idea of interior pipes through the roof, and prefer the idea of external chimneys, even of the double walled stainless variety, because most chimney fires that damage houses do so at the roofline.

In my area, internal chimneys are illegal for new construction, period, regardless of their materials. A lot of farmers here simply put a clay thimble through a wall, and run pipe straight up the outside of their buildings, using those braces that tack onto the building's exterior. They leave a T at the bottom for easy cleanout, and a raincap on top.

Do they ever catch fire? The chimneys, yes, the buildings no.

I am in a situation where I can only get liability, and not fire insurance for my property, because of the close proximity my uncle built all of his outbuildings. Garage 4 ft from house, shop 2 ft from garage, chicken house 6 ft from shop, barn 6 ft from chicken house.

The last insurance man told me that my best option would be to tear down my 6 car, two story garage, which is in better shape than my house.

They can bite me, directly.....
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