EZ-OUTS

[Brent]

In my 65 years of tinkering, well maybe 50, I don't think I have ever been able to remove a broken off stud or bolt with an EZ-Out. I use the right sized drill bit, always soak with penetrating oil and if I can, use cold or heat to help but they still don't work. Should I file them away for ever or are there some tricks that I'm not aware of?

[jim turner]

Brent; It has been my experience that some work better than others, I find that the screw type usually expand the bolt and make it harder to get out, the best ones for me ar the ones with four flat sides (Snap On) makes a pretty good one. The best luck is with ones I have made from a old socket extension where I grind four flat sides on it and then use my impact wrench to remove the broken bolt. Just my experience hope it may help.

[Brent]

Jim,

See you can learn something new everyday! I didn't know they made square EZ-OUTS. All of mine are the tapered screw in type and I always thought they would expand the stud or bolt. Next time I'll try your home made version. Do you use a drill bit a little smaller than the square EZ-OUT and then drive it in?

[Jim Becker]

It may have been Roger Welsch that rechristened those things hard-outs. In any case, it seems appropriate.

In my limited experience, I think I have seen more of those things broken off than I have seen broken studs that they removed. I'm not sure I have ever seen a broken piece removed with the screw type. The square ones definitely have a better chance of working. My personal opinion is that they may be OK for removing a stud or bolt that was twisted of at assembly but are pretty useless for parts that broke because they were stuck. Of course, the ones that break at assembly will almost always come out when you are drilling if you use a left handed bit.

[LiL' Red]

Brent no there is no secret just don't break any more bolts. seriously my experience has been nearly the same. I have an old set of Rigid brand easy outs that work better than anything else I've ever used they look like a dowel pin with extruded grooves and a hex sleeve fits over them to turn. Fact is I seldom use easy outs anymore I find that for the most part I'm time ahead to drill them out with a left hand drill bit, sometimes they catch and bring the bolt out.
Just for the record, I've had about the same success with broken tap extractors as with easy outs.

[Jeff Silvey]

What do you do when you break an ez out ,any size or a small tap
Jeff

[LiL' Red]

What do you do when you break an ez out ,any size or a small tap
Jeff

sometimes ez outs will loosen up by heating and cooling if not heat, cool slowly, cut out with carbide. Taps, if they are carbon steel chip them out with a small prick punch, they are very brittle and will crumble. If it's a high speed tap, grind out with carbide. If the taps and or ez out is big enough just blow them out with a cutting torch, easy on the trigger. It sometimes helps to take a short pull on the old Jim Beam to help steady the hand.

[George Willer]

What do you do when you break an ez out ,any size or a small tap
Jeff

Use your word program to make up a sign and print it out and tape it to your back. The sign should say " "KICK ME" .

Whether the "ez-out" is threaded, spiral, square or whatever they all get a grip inside a round hole by expanding it. They would have to be stronger that the bolt that is stuck and twisted off in the hole. Clean out your tool boxes and dispose of all those @$%^& things.

Their only possibility of success is to remove a bolt that isn't stuck... a job done much better by a left handed drill.

As far as broken taps is concerned, the best plan is to avoid breaking them. If, when using a proper tap handle you can see it is turning too hard, either look at the %thread chart and choose a more appropriate tap drill size. Don't try to use a dull tap! Start the tap straight.

[Jeff Silvey]

George:
I know what your talking about.
I have broke a small tap on my cub at the bottom of the dog leg in the housing of the steering area. My uncle said that I could use a tool that goes down through flutes,but the tap was to small. I end up using a small punch & chipped away the tap. Very successful .
I guest the best way to do these things is don't BREAK a screw,bolt & tap
Jeff

[WKPoor]

As an A/C mech we deal with alot of screws-I mean a lot. ON a big inspection I dare say thousands taking off panels and putting them back on. There are always screws that won't back out whether it be loss of the drive or they keep snapping the bit. Easy-outs do work if used properly! Most all of our fastners are threaded into a locking nut of some type so you pretty much have no choice. Over the last 20yrs I've gotten good at it. The trick is the right drill matched to the right ezout. The snap-on stubbys are my favorite. The company supplied all of us a kit that has a special bit that has the drill on one side and the ezout on the other, they work pretty good also. I just hate to have to drill a scew body out for risk of being off center and getting into the nut. I will agree its your last resort but in some cases its all you can try. I think this is one area experience and technique are paramount to success.
One tip- if a scew is tight and the drive is about to round out put a dab of water based valve grinding past on the bit tip. You'll amazed at how good you can grip with that stuff. I sometimes use it to install screws that feel like don't fit the driver well. That way I don't leave a trap for the next guy. There is a product called screw grap on the market, buts its really just grinding compound.

[beaconlight]

That is a good one. I never thought of Valve Grinding Compound. When I have hex heads I want to hold in a driver I put a small piece of friction tape.

Bill

[Rudi]

There are probably lots of ways to use an EZ-Out, but I guess you gotta have a lotta practice...

Most of us never will. I agree with George... THROW EM OUT !!!!! I did and I haven't regretted it.

I think tossin em is a lot cheaper than buying a casting....

[Steve Butram]

What do you do when you break an ez out ,any size or a small tap
Jeff

Jeff when you stop by I will show you how I got a broken tap out of the engine block on the H I'M working on. It was a cheap grade tap but it took 3 days and a Dremmel tool and some steady hands and I got it ground out without damaging the threads.

Steve

[George Willer]

As an A/C mech we deal with alot of screws-I mean a lot. ON a big inspection I dare say thousands taking off panels and putting them back on. There are always screws that won't back out whether it be loss of the drive or they keep snapping the bit. Easy-outs do work if used properly! Most all of our fastners are threaded into a locking nut of some type so you pretty much have no choice. Over the last 20yrs I've gotten good at it. The trick is the right drill matched to the right ezout. The snap-on stubbys are my favorite. The company supplied all of us a kit that has a special bit that has the drill on one side and the ezout on the other, they work pretty good also. I just hate to have to drill a scew body out for risk of being off center and getting into the nut. I will agree its your last resort but in some cases its all you can try. I think this is one area experience and technique are paramount to success.

Bill,

With all due respect... how in the world can an ez-out work in the environment we old tractor nuts are working in? We're not talking about bolts that haven't been removed since the last inspection, we're dealing with bolts that haven't been removed for maybe a half century and have been rusting in place long enough to be STUCK. Stuck so badly that they twist off when we try to remove them... leaving behind a stub that we need to remove that's still stuck that badly. That's where our intrepid friends get in trouble. The chance of an ez-out working are near zero, no matter how carefully the stub is drilled. Experience is valuable, and can be put to work learning to properly drill the stub on center.

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Maintenance%20Tips%20and%20Techniques/Articles%20by%20George%20Willer/Removing%20Broken%20and%20Stuck%20Head%20Bolts/Removing%20Broken%20and%20Stuck%20Head%20Bolts.htm
I'll continue recommending NOT to try an ez-out because the chance of creating a much bigger problem are so great.

[David C]

Brent; It has been my experience that some work better than others, I find that the screw type usually expand the bolt and make it harder to get out, the best ones for me ar the ones with four flat sides (Snap On) makes a pretty good one. The best luck is with ones I have made from a old socket extension where I grind four flat sides on it and then use my impact wrench to remove the broken bolt. Just my experience hope it may help.

I've got this set at work, they have done me well
http://armstrongtools.com/catalog/products.jsp?groupID=1249

David C