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How to tighten up the gap on a rolling barn door?

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Paul_NJ
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How to tighten up the gap on a rolling barn door?

Postby Paul_NJ » Fri Dec 15, 2006 11:43 pm

I'm looking for some suggestions. My bank barn has a large sliding door that hangs on rollers.
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Problem is that it hangs about 1 1/2 inches off of the outside wall, so there is always a large open gap all of the way around it. I've converted the barn into a workshop, and done alot to tighten it up against the weather. But this huge gap is always there. Are there some sort of sealing devices, or a better way to frame around the door I haven't thought of? I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Oh in case you were wondering, that pile is 20 tons of stone that had just been dumped that had to be shoveled down a chute to make the 4" underlayment last year, before the concrete floor was poured.
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Postby LiL' Red » Sat Dec 16, 2006 12:15 am

How about casing the opening around the perimiter with 2x6?

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Postby Eugene » Sat Dec 16, 2006 12:17 am

Depends on what you have for a bolt that fits in the trolley. Mine has an off set in the bolt which can be turned to tighten up the door a bit.

A heavy drop cloth or plastic tarp on the inside of the door covering the entire opening. Roll up so that it's out of the way when you move machinery in and out. Block the sides and bottom when the tarp is down.

If the door will clear the side of the barn. Install 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 blocking on the outside of top of the barn door, setting the door in by 1 1/2 inches. Reinstall the brackets that hold the door on the outside of the 2 bys.

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Postby George Willer » Sat Dec 16, 2006 12:24 am

Paul,

1 1/2" is a lot, but every sliding door track I've ever worked on allowed some in and out adjustment for the door. Look carefully at the hangers for either slotted holes or eccentric hanger bolts. You may have to install some kind of stops to close most of the gap and use the hangers for final adjustment.
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Postby johnbron » Sat Dec 16, 2006 1:29 am

:idea: Just a thought but maybe you could fasten some rubber strips to the sides of the door. They could drag against the side of the outside wall when the door is opened or closed. Might be of some help to keep the weather out when the door is closed. :idea:
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Postby Bigdog » Sat Dec 16, 2006 6:42 am

Once you get the door adjusted as physically close as possible, there are wiper strips that can be installed on the edges of the door such as those used on overhead garage doors.
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Postby Paul_NJ » Sat Dec 16, 2006 7:52 am

Thanks for the ideas. . . . it helps to talk about these things.

OK . . .I'll bolt a vertical 2x6 onto the door frame on the side the door closes to . . . that's easy enough and will provide a good block there. I can't really move the door inward (I didn't see in/out adjustment when I brushed and painted the track channel this summer) because the door would drag on the battens on the new siding (door just hangs . . . no bottom support). Just have to figure out some sort of inside wiper for the other side of the door. Maybe a 2x6 on hinges on the inside that you close after the door is rolled shut? I have a bunch of recovered door hinges somewhere . . . hmmm
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Postby Rudi » Sat Dec 16, 2006 8:32 am

Paul:

I am contemplating how I am going to mount my rolling door for the new pole barn. I am not a big fan of snow and crap all over the inside of my buildings, so I am trying to figure out the best, easiest (read CHEAP) way to accomplish this.

I have thought about it and thought about it... and to my feeble old mind, I have been thinking that having a sliding door on the inside of the wall with rubber wiper/weatherstrips would be useful, as well as mounting guide wheels to keep the door vertically aligned to the wall itself. I have an additional challenge in that I have telephone poles for the poles.. so I guess I am going to have to frame the door to provide a plumb line to guide the door.

So it just occured to me that a novel and probably effective way for you to solve much of your problem would be to do something similar. Do not take off the door you have.. but put wiper strips etc., to help as a sort of screen door. And to improve the warmth of your newly created shop space, you may want to either install an interior sliding or folding door setup (folding will definitiely help you use up those recovered/recycled door hinges :idea: :!: :wink: ), depending on what interior space you have available. I would also if I was custom building the door, ensure that I could insulate it with styro or some other lightweight insulation.. :idea: :idea:

Does that make any sense or is it clear as mud... I wrote it and I am not sure...
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Postby Harold R » Sat Dec 16, 2006 9:24 am

Looks like a concrete slab borders the door on the bottom? Looks to be fairly tight against it in the photo. If it's just the sides that have the gap, then the 2x6 sounds like the way to go. Then you could match up a hasp,or bolt...how ever you latch it. 8) There's a couple of barn structures still remaining in Madison, left over from a dairy farm. I walk right past them every week going to the coffee shop. Maybe I'll take a peek and see how those are structured. Probably built around the same time frame. 8)

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Postby Eugene » Sat Dec 16, 2006 10:33 am

Rudi wrote:I am contemplating how I am going to mount my rolling door for the new pole barn. I am trying to figure out the best, easiest (read CHEAP) way to accomplish this.


This may be hard to explain. I used the overhead track and trolleys to make a folding (accordion type) door to close up one end of the shop. Approximately a 9 foot wide opening.

4 sections to make two doors. 2 sections are hinged in the center to fold, to make one door. Both doors are hinged to the side of the door opening. Trolley carries the center end of each door.

Savings. You only need enough rail to match the door opening. You only need two trolleys. Extra cost. Hinges.

I framed each door section from 2 bys. Used metal siding (roofing) to cover the door. Metal siding overlaps the hinged sections and the butt between the two doors when closed. Door is fairly weather tight. But then the shop is not heated.

To lock the doors I use 2 each 2bys the width of the door opening. I blocked out on the inside of each door section to accomodate the horizontal 2 by. One 2by near the center of the door height and one near the bottom.

Clear as mud.

Eugene

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Postby Jeff Silvey » Sat Dec 16, 2006 1:14 pm

Paul :
Has your barn been wind jacked :?: I had one like that I went inside used come-a-longs with a carpenter freind we brought the barn back to plum. Takes a little time. When we got everything plum we used cripple on the sides of the board to help keep everything straight.
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Postby cowboy » Sat Dec 16, 2006 2:21 pm

Hi Rudi

That is just how my friend Gerold has his barns setup. He has had it like that for 25+ years and no problems. He is in Michigans UP where they usually get 6 to 10 feet of snow a year which is why he did it. He never has to worry about shovleing the snow away from the side of the building to oppen the door. He has 10' side wall and 8' tall doors. On one he has floor to ceiling shelfs that the door slides between the back of the shelvs and the wall. I belive he has those camlock door locks that pull the door tight aginst the weatherstripping for a good seal.

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Postby Paul_NJ » Sat Dec 16, 2006 7:44 pm

Paul :
Has your barn been wind jacked I had one like that I went inside used come-a-longs with a carpenter freind we brought the barn back to plum. Takes a little time. When we got everything plum we used cripple on the sides of the board to help keep everything straight.
Jeff


Jeff

That barn's been resurrected from the dead. All of the sills were rotted, and the floor joist ends had sunken 4 to 5 inches into the stone foundation. We jacked all of the floor joists, supporting them from below on 6"x6"x10' oak beams supported by hydraulic jacks sitting upon poured piers. All of the floor joists were sistered the last 6 feet. When we were done replacing the sills, the support beams were left in place as a secondary support. Had to jack and level the rafters as well. Used 16' - 3/4" rod, threaded and coupled together in the middle, and pulled in with nuts at the top of each original oak vertical post (10 foot spacing) to pull things plumb. Labor of love.

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Postby JBall8019 » Sat Dec 16, 2006 11:22 pm

paul that is an absolutley beautiful place youre rebuilding there! you put those guys on pbs to shame!
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Postby JBall8019 » Sat Dec 16, 2006 11:43 pm

oh yeah i forgot to ask, what kind of hangers do you have for those doors? gw had a good insight, when i used to muck stalls when i was college, i noticed that most of the newer sliding doors had to be pushed outwards first and then pulled sideways to open the doors. the harngers sort of swiveled.
i bet if you go to a old school hardware store they could point you ion the right direction
i hope this helps
john


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