Garden Help

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Garden Help

Postby beaconlight » Mon Mar 21, 2005 1:43 pm

What didn't I do wrong and how do I fix it?
Last summer I attempted to turn over a garden with a 16 inch single bottom plow. We had a garden but it was in a different spot and was no longer usable because of the 28 x 28 garage I put up. I turned it over with one wheel in the furrow but didn't get the sod completely turned under. It was quite rocky but that didn't concern me because all the corn and other fields in Deleware county are ROCKY. I took most of the large ones out. Now I had a very lumpy acre with a lot of sod showing. I had covered the area with 4 inches of sheep manua, with a lot of bedding in it and 3 inches of wood chips, before plowing. I bought a disc and because my 1050 has no down pressure got absolutely no where except compacting everything by running on it.. Now that acre is the lushest green weed field you can imagine. How do I fix it?

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Bill
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Postby George Willer » Mon Mar 21, 2005 1:59 pm

Roundup!
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Mar 21, 2005 3:50 pm

Thanks George. Thats the weeds. Still can't figure out why the disc did so little.

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Postby Bigdog » Mon Mar 21, 2005 3:55 pm

Bill, how much a disk cuts depends on the angle set of the disk and the weight. This is of course, in addition to soil conditions. Some concrete blocks will provide additional weight. Is the disk set to cut? The more acute the angle between the gangs, the more it will cut. The straighter the angle, the less the cut. We're also assuming that the disks on the disk are not completely worn out.
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Mar 21, 2005 3:58 pm

If there is someway you can put weight on your disk, that will help, but will tkae several passes. Now that it has set a while, plow it again and disk before adding nay mulch, etc.
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Mar 21, 2005 5:12 pm

The disc was brand new from TSC as was the 1 bottom plow. I had wanted a 2 but none were available at the time. I'll look at the set of the discs next time up the country.
Does the speed at which you plow make a difference in how you bury trash? That's what got me confused. Each row was not completely turned over.

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Postby Bigdog » Mon Mar 21, 2005 6:32 pm

Ground speed and soil conditions will both affect how the sod is turned.
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Postby Jim Hudson » Mon Mar 21, 2005 6:53 pm

Scalloped disc and 252 pounds of cement blocks. The garden in the back ground was part of my back yard and had not been plowed in 35 years. Used the belly disc plow and then the bog about 3 times.
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Mar 21, 2005 6:56 pm

Ok Glad to hear that. I'll try different ground speeds and if I have to will try to set the plow over or keep out of the furrow to get it completely turned over.
How long between the Round up and plowing?
Would it be helpful to plow 1 direction and then across the other way?
The new garden will be about 2 acres. The old one was about 3/4 acre. I like fresh sweet corn. For lunch pick it, husk it, cook it and eat it. If there is any left over throw it out and get fresh for supper. You could save 1 or 2 ears for pancakes in the morning but that is it.

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Postby Bigdog » Mon Mar 21, 2005 7:15 pm

Bill, don't try plowing 90 degrees to what you've already turned. All that will do is turn up some sod that is already down. Build a land drag out of some heavy lumber and weight it. Use it to bust up some of the clumps you have created with the plow. It will also level the furrows. Then disk the crap out of it. The disk will eventually do the job if you make enough trips. The up side to all of this is seat time! :D
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Postby Ralph » Mon Mar 21, 2005 7:44 pm

Bill
I see something in your post that i don't think was covered the right rear tire is supposed to travel in the dead furrow that you created with your previous pass the plow should be set so the plow shear almost cuts to the edge of the previous furrow. Another way to put it is that if you have a 12inch plow the plow point should enter the sod 12 inches from the edge of the last furrow. if you are using a multiple moleboard plow it is the same. another thing is when the tire is in the furrow and the plow is in the ground the plow shear should be cutting level if the point is deeper than the right side of the furrow it will not throw the sod over and cover it .
I hope i said it the way that it is understandable.

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Postby beaconlight » Mon Mar 21, 2005 8:06 pm

BD i'll cut down a 20 or 24 inch beech for the drag. Should I square it off on 1 or 2 sides? Or will round work just as well. should I chain 2 or more pieces togeher? I am using the 30 HP diesel for the garden. I don't have any plows or discs for the Low Boy. Rocks cement blocks or Iron i'll get weight on the disc.
Ralph I think I understand.
1. Keep each furrow at the same depth.
2. don't take too wide a bite of sod.
I'll have to adjust the plow or change the wheel width to get this?

Bill
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Postby Bigdog » Mon Mar 21, 2005 8:16 pm

Bill, squared off will help bust the clods. On the plowing, the right side wheels run down in the furrow. The inside wall of the tires should run right against the wall of the furrow. With that condition, as Ralph stated, the point of the plow should be no more than the width of the plow share. In other words, a 12" plow should be set up with the landslide and point 12" from the sidewall of tire. This would put the point 12" in from the edge of the furrow and the trailing edge of the share would be right at the furrow wall. Also, with the right wheels dropped into the furrow and the left wheels on the unplowed ground, your plow should set approximately level both side to side and front to back. Then, if the plow wants to ride up out of the ground you can lower the point of the plow. If it wants to bury itself, you can raise the point until it runs at the desired depth. If you come to Cubfest we'll show you how it's done.
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Mar 21, 2005 9:05 pm

I am sure you will show how to do it. But it will be after planting time by then. The problem is that we are celebrating 50 years of marriage on June 26. Have to hold it a day late a niece is getting married on the 25th. My brother Bobs daughter. Bob is deceased and her mom will walk her down and Barbara has asked me to do the father daughter dance with her. Timing will be bad.
Ive got 3 big pines down I probably could bring to a mill to square up. Bev wants 4 more down so you can see all the way down the drive to the roda from the house. If they wont do it I'll take down a beech with beech bark beetle damage and square that up with a chain saw. Lord knows that 20 acres that had been highgraded before I bought the place can do some good other than fire wood.
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Postby ljw » Mon Mar 21, 2005 9:10 pm

Bill, I wait until the ground is just right before I plow. I have clay soil so I absolutely don't plow wet. Too dry and it's like concrete. Some people use the extensions, or wings, on the moldboard to help turn the sod. I still plow the garden every year, but follow up with a tractor mounted rotary tiller. The reason I still plow is to break up the hard barrier that could be formed by tilling at the same depth all the time. It you drive over it too much you will compact the soil. I've also seen some plows that are sprung, etc. which makes them ineffective. Tilling virgin soil is more difficult than previously used soil, anyway. My $0.02.
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