Wed Apr 04, 2012 12:37 pm
I could really use some help with a non-Cub issue. If this is not something that is appropriate to be on this site please feel free to remove it. There is a vast amount of knowledge on this forum and I know its not restricted to just tractors. So here I am hat in hand asking for help. I’m stuck with not knowing much about wiring. I have three photos of a GM steering column and do not know what wires to attach to were. As you can see I have everything number. This will help with identifying what wire goes to (or from) where. If anyone can help me or turn me to some one that can help it would greatly appreciated.
Here is the column as it look in my Hot Rod.
Here is the plug in the middle of the column.
Here is the plug at the end of the column.
Thanks for any help in advance.
Wed Apr 04, 2012 2:28 pm
Scott. I can get you that info this afternoon at a friends shop. I'll post your question/answers later tonight.
Wed Apr 04, 2012 3:02 pm
It might help if you have any idea what model car the steering column came out of. GM has made a lot of different steering columns! By the way, looks to me like the blue one may be a neutral safety switch for a column shift automatic.
Wed Apr 04, 2012 3:30 pm
Scott. Here's a quick schematic of the ignition switch and Jim is correct, it's a neutral safety/reverse light switch on the blue one.
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Wed Apr 04, 2012 3:37 pm
Top picture is the ignition switch. Blue one is neutral safety and back up light switch.
Local library and locate the reference section. Chilton or Clymer books covering your year and model. Most have chassis electrical wiring diagrams located in the books. Make photo copies.
And good luck. Appears that some of the wiring is not original.
OK. If your current wiring does not match the wiring diagrams in the reference books - you can still figure it out.
1) You need to test each switch to see which terminals function with the lever action. Example: Neutral safety switch. Switch in park - which terminals are connected together and which are not. Switch in reverse, neutral, and in drive - same checks.
2) You will need to trace each wire to determine it's origin/function when activated/electrified/energized.
Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:41 pm
yes, this is the correct place for your post, and in addition to what has been posted, I believe that neutral safety switch is also adjustable (screw slots) and may have to be adjusted to get it to work right once it is all installed.
Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:02 pm
Well shoot. I visited my friend with the auto shop tonight. He has both Mitchell and AllData and neither program goes earlier than 1980. I think that neutral safety/reverse switch may be from a Jeep CJ setup in the mid 70's. Sorry I struck out.
I'm also pretty sure the ignition switch is adjustable. I remember loosening the 2 small hex screws and sliding the switch up or down the column a fuzz to get it right.
Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:45 pm
LOOKS LIKE IT MAY BE OUT OF A LATE 60S Chevelle You will need the end of the harness that snaps in to the Ign switch, It will make your life much Ezer you most likely will not need the neutral safety switch http://www.ss396.com/mm5/graphics/00000009/HWD-64A.jpg
Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:17 am
Thanks. This is just what I needed. Here is what I am dealing with
Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:46 pm
OK. Buy a new ignition and neutral safety switch -- - before starting your wiring project. Switches do go bad. Drive one up a wall to finish the wiring and then things don't work.
If you don't know the exact year and model - take the old switch into your favorite auto parts store. 5 similiar looking ignition switches were used from 1969 to 1974 on GM products, as well as interchangeable with GM, AMC, IHC trucks, Chrysler and Jeep products.
Thu Apr 05, 2012 5:53 pm
Many of the more recent vehicles use separate lamps for the rear brake lights and for the turn signals. For many years the brake lights and turn signals used the same lamp filament. The brake light current went up the steering column to the turn signal switch and the side which was to signal disconnected that lamp filament from the brake current and connected it to the flasher, which also often ran from the firewall up the steering column.
No turn signals when I started driving, arm signals. Not good in the rain and cold weather.
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