Best paint remover, ever !

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Bob Perry
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Best paint remover, ever !

Postby Bob Perry » Tue Sep 18, 2012 12:26 pm

No wires to connect. No slimy mess, no chemicals. Will take just a few minutes of your time. No sand or abrasives to buy. And no expense at all.

And this method will even make lunch for you. And heat your shop on a cold day, too.

Oh and get rid of all the waste paper, cardboard, pieces of wood, etc. that you've been tripping over.

And while all that's being done, I'm on the internet, while my work is being done for me!

Sounds impossible ?

Fire! Yes, just get a good fire going in the 'ol woodstove, and throw in whatever you want. Today, I did 2 batches: Heavy stuff like snow-plow frame parts, various steering pedestal/gauge and switch panels from an H, some motor mount brackets from a old truck, baked for a couple hours. Then the second batch was lighter stuff like sealed-beam housings, oil-bath air cleaners, a Cub dash, etc. Even some handfuls of various nuts and bolts.

I have a large magnet which will suck up anything small out of the ashes.

My stove is 36" deep and has a big door.

Just wonder what the people driving by thought when they saw the smoke from the chimney on a day when it's 70 degrees!!!
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Re: Best paint remover, ever !

Postby ScottyD'sdad » Tue Sep 18, 2012 3:28 pm

I'll be watching, from a good distance, when you do a cub hood and fuel tank, that I do in my E-tank! Good luck fitting it in, too! Getting it out will be fast, REAL fast! Ed
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Bob Perry
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1951 Farmall Cub / IH mower

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1946 Farmall H

1949 Farmall H

a doodle bug

More than a dozen Cub Cadets running plus a few in the bone-yard

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Location: Dartmouth, Massachusetts

Re: Best paint remover, ever !

Postby Bob Perry » Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:07 pm

I usually leave a couple gallons of gas in it, for more heat.

(That was a joke.)
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Re: Best paint remover, ever !

Postby Chris D » Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:54 pm

Gotta be careful not to take the temper out of the metal. Sometimes heat will weaken the parts and they bend or break easier. I won't buy any parts that have been involved in a fire....

Edit: also seems like once a part is burned it rusts a lot faster than a non burned part. Wether painted or not it will rust faster.

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Bill V in Md
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Re: Best paint remover, ever !

Postby Bill V in Md » Tue Sep 18, 2012 5:32 pm

I would be careful because some of those fumes could be quite toxic.
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Bob Perry
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1951 Farmall Cub / IH mower

1964 International Cub Lo-Boy / Woods 59 mower

1967 International Cub / FH

1946 Farmall H

1949 Farmall H

a doodle bug

More than a dozen Cub Cadets running plus a few in the bone-yard

.
Location: Dartmouth, Massachusetts

Re: Best paint remover, ever !

Postby Bob Perry » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:04 pm

Chris D wrote:Gotta be careful not to take the temper out of the metal. Sometimes heat will weaken the parts and they bend or break easier. I won't buy any parts that have been involved in a fire....

Edit: also seems like once a part is burned it rusts a lot faster than a non burned part. Wether painted or not it will rust faster.


It's how they made all your truck bodies, farm implements, trailers, and everything else, any steel I ever bought came from heat, and when I weld it gets a heck of a lot hotter than my woodstove (or else my woodstove would have melted) so if properly primed and painted, a little heat ain't gonna matter (I am not talking springs or castings or other specialty stuff) The things I clean with fire are mild steel that would be exposed to welds, etc., and I have used this method over half a century and it has worked fine, in fact my woodstove is made of 1/4 inch mild steel, and it's over 30 years since it was built and it's doing fine.
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Re: Best paint remover, ever !

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:38 pm

You are right Bob, but they were all made in a controlled environment with amount of heat, time, etc closely watched, and many were tempered afterward.
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bob in CT
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Re: Best paint remover, ever !

Postby bob in CT » Wed Sep 19, 2012 8:11 pm

I am not crazy about this. Annealing can be done as low as 700 degrees. Grain growth weakens the steel. But most of all is the robbing of carbon out of the steel, or decarburization. This is why it will rust easily later. keep in mind that much of the welding uses a shielding gas (or even a layer of flux) and many welds should be passivated to avoid corrosion later.


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