Electrical Problem

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Brent
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Electrical Problem

Postby Brent » Fri Oct 21, 2016 5:14 am

I put a winch on my Dodge 2500 flat bed to winch my Cub on. I installed a 12volt deep cycle battery in one of the tool boxes, hooked the leads from winch to the positive and negative terminals on the deep cycle battery. I also ran 10 gage wires from one of the truck batteries to the deep cycle battery to keep it charged. Plus to Plus, Minus to Minus and installed a 15 amp fuse link in the + wire. Under load it blows the fuse. Can't figure out why. Anyone know why it blows the fuse?
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Re: Electrical Problem

Postby Gary Dotson » Fri Oct 21, 2016 8:00 am

The 15 amp fuse is much too small. My pick-up has a factory installed circuit, intended to charge a trailer battery (camper or what have you) and uses a 40 amp fuse. Under load, your amp flow to your deep cycle battery will probably be somewhere near 30 amps.

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Re: Electrical Problem

Postby Eugene » Fri Oct 21, 2016 8:43 am

Agree with Gary.

When the wench is in operation the Amp load is on the entire battery circuit; deep cycle battery, truck's battery, and the alternator if the engine is running. So, if there is a 20 or 30 amp draw when the wench is in operation, same amount of Amps is passing through the fuse.
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Re: Electrical Problem

Postby Brent » Fri Oct 21, 2016 10:14 am

I tried a 25amp fuse and it blew it. I'll try a 40 or 45 and see what happens. Thanks for the hints.
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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: Electrical Problem

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Oct 21, 2016 1:29 pm

With that setup you have just put the deep cycle battery in parallel with the truck battery. It will keep it charged, but when starting the truck it will also try to draw current from the deep cycle, and running the winch will pull current from the truck battery. I suggest an isolator of the type used to charge camper batteries.
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Re: Electrical Problem

Postby Jim Becker » Fri Oct 21, 2016 1:59 pm

I am reading your problem that the fuse blows only when you operate the winch. As already stated, your third battery is simply in parallel with the others. Since there are 2 up front, they supply the bulk of the current for everything, whether it is starting the engine or running the winch. So you get away with the light charging wire/fuse when starting the engine. When one of your original batteries goes bad, you will probably blow the fuse starting the engine. Running the winch will likewise try to take a lot of power from the 2 batteries up front, thus your blown fuses when operating the winch.

I'm not sure what the complete function of John's isolator is, unclear to me it will solve the problem both directions. When I added a charge line for my break-away brake battery, I put a diode in-line to keep the truck from trying to draw current from the small brake battery. Doing the same would keep your fuse from blowing when the main truck batteries go bad or are weak. A cheap/easy fix for blowing fuses when running the winch is to put a switch in the charge line. Flip it open when running the winch and close it to charge the battery the rest of the time. The catch is you need to remember to flip the switch as needed.

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Re: Electrical Problem

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Oct 21, 2016 2:53 pm

The isolator is similar to a diode, but the good ones have SCRs in them that turn on when the input voltage reaches charging value, but when it lowers below the threshold they turn off to prevent backfeed. The advantage to this is that a diode has a .6volt drop for current going through it, but the SCR does not so the battery charges to full charge rather than being slightly lower.
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Re: Electrical Problem

Postby Jim Becker » Fri Oct 21, 2016 3:55 pm

After my earlier post, I did a little looking online and found that etrailer has a relay that can be controlled by the ignition switch. It is an inexpensive fix but requires running another line from somewhere in the ignition circuit to the relay. I'm not sure it would solve the problem of feed from the extra battery while starting.

Since the trailer brake battery is normally just along for the ride, I decided to ignore the 0.6 volt drop and it would get adequately charged when the truck battery was fully charged.

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Re: Electrical Problem

Postby Bus Driver » Sun Oct 23, 2016 8:34 am

My guess is that the winch under load draws more like 100 amps-- or more. 10 gauge will handle 100 amps for about 10 minutes with a lengthy cool-off period following. Larger gauge wire will be more efficient as any heat is just wasted power that does no winch work.
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