In the previous part we have seen the Splitter mounted on Ray's MF1040 with the 3 point hitch.
The next step is to fabricate the drawbar assembly for Ellie. We first cut a piece of 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" angle iron at 25-1/8" long. Drilled two 5/8" holes 8" oc from the center line of the drawbar. These mate up perfectly with the 2" spacing of the Cub's drawbar.
We then mounted the splitter to Ellie's rear rockshaft, elevated to bring the 3 point drawbar assembly to be level with Ellie's drawbar and test fitted the angle iron to line up for the link brackets.
The lift link brackets require 2 pcs 2-1/4" x 4" x 1/4" steel flat bar with 1" holes 1-1/4" oc from the end of each bracket . We then welded up the link brackets to the angle iron and the new assembly was ready to mount.
Voila! ... a simple assembly that will now mate a 3 point hitch drawbar assembly to a Cub drawbar
The only thing left to do with the mounting configuration is to drill a 9/16" hole in the top link brackets to accomodate the Cub's rear rockshaft a little more snugly than the 1" hole for the 3 point top link pin. A 1/2" x 3-1/2" pin will be used for this.
The next step in the project is to make a plate for the valve. Used a piece of 3" angle iron for this step. Align it in place
Tack weld it
And then finish weld it in place.
With this done, it was time to take Ellie back home for the next step in the project.
Since this is a project to put a splitter on a Cub, I guess it makes sense to use a Cub hydraulic valve even if it is a Cub Cadet valve. This one actually came off of a Cub Cadet 129 Hydro .. which is kinda neat considering that is the same model of Cadet that I have. This is the 2nd valve of this type that I have been able to get from Joe's Outdoor Power. He usually has all kinds of interesting stuff for interesting projects..
The first step was to mount the valve to the angle iron plate. Drilled two 1/4" holes and mounted the valve to the plate with 8 washers acting as a temporary bushing (had to get some bushing stock). Neglected to take a pic..
One of the big obstacles for me was that I didn't have a lever for the valve. Been trying to figure out what to use. The other Cub Cadet valve I have has a really cool and I mean really lever and mounting assembly for it. It was made by one of the best fabricators I know.. (yup.. you know who you is ) and I figured I was going to have to make something unless I could find something that would fit. Unfortunately I am no where near the fabricator he is.. so finding a used/surplus lever that would work was my only chance. I got lucky and Princess happened to have one in the parts box (thanks Leo) that I got for $5.00. Did I mention that Princess is my favourite department store
Now that I had the lever.... the big question was how do I mount it
One of the first things I had to do was get the proper sized links to attach the lever to the valve shaft. After a bit of searching at Princess, found em and surprisingly.. well to me at least the darn thing fit rather well. So.. with that solved... how do I mount it to the plate and will it be the right height to keep the link basically horizontal
Being a cabinet maker, I kinda have lots of different parts in my parts bins.. so I figured something in them bins had to be of some use. After a bit of searching.. picking up parts and tossing them back in their bins, I found a pair of 1" x 1" L brackets that seemed to just about perfect. Drilled the lever to accept a 1/4" x 1" bolt. I also had a piece of 1/8" x 2" steel bar stock which would work as the mount itself. So, took out my spring clamps, an F clamp and laid it out.
With the spring clamps holding the L brackets I tried the lever to see how it would work. Seemed to work fine.
Drilled the holes for the 1/4" bolts for the L brackets and one to hold the mounting plate to the angle iron before squaring it up and drilling the final mounting hole.
Mark the mounting plate and then cut to size.
Clean up the burrs, radius the corners and poof.. all done.
Check to make sure that it works properly.
The last thing to do was drill a hole for a cotter pin.
Cotter pin in and all done
Then next step will be to plumb the system. That will be Part 3.