Re: Help with Electric Motor Please
Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 8:18 am
Did you find numbers on the small tags on the wires? If so, please post the numbers.
On the relay, the two side connections should go to the running windings and apparently do otherwise it would not run and the relay would not close and open as it should. Are there any other wires going to the relay other than the two side and the two bottom? Somehow something is not disconnecting the capacitor. I cannot tell from the photo where the relay contacts connect to, to the two bottom terminals or are the two bottom terminals really just one and there is another terminal that I cannot see? I believe that is somehow the problem. There is a black wire the connects the top set of relay points to the "frame", I assume to electrically bypass the hinge. Is there a connection to that black wire or is that connection to the black wire and upper set of points really one of the two terminals at the bottom of the relay. If there is a terminal near the top of the relay photo that is not connected then one set of the bottom wires needs to go there. I expect there are really no other missing terminals and the relay only has those 4. So I would remove the capacitor wire, the one going to the relay bottom left terminal. Place an ohm meter across the two bottom terminals, should read infinity. If not then the insulating material may be damaged and the two terminals are electrically one. That would keep the capacitor on and cause the failure. The relay terminal, bottom left, in the photo goes to the lower set of points and then to the capacitor, the lower right terminal has two wires but what is that connected to? I believe it should be insulated from the left terminal and should connect to the upper point. I also suspect it is really shorted either from bad insulation or the terminals/rivets are loose.
The jumper diagram may be incorrect on the resistor layout, I believe what you have is correct but the diagram may be an older diagram that did not show a change to the board. From the back of the board, the top left terminal wire with some tape on it appears to be thicker and I am assuming it is the line coming in. If that is true and you jumper for 220 volts, that wire would be connected only to the top right terminal which is not connected to anything so it would be the wire to nowhere! If that wire is L1 then something is wrong with the wiring. Do you know if the wires were removed from the terminals at one time?
I assume the 194 volts is generated by the starting windings and by itself would not mean much except the capacitor wires should have been disconnected from the starter winding at that point. So, the relay mechanically moves but is not disconnecting or is really not in the circuit correctly from misswiring.
Right now it would be good to know the wire numbers on those little tags, the continuity of the bottom relay terminals, how may terminals are on the relay, i.e. 4 or 5, and does it look like the wires going in to the back of the board have been changed or unscrewed. Good progress, should not be much longer to fix.
On your compressor, it sounds like the unloader may be stuck. Does it make a loud hiss when the compressor shuts off?
On the relay, the two side connections should go to the running windings and apparently do otherwise it would not run and the relay would not close and open as it should. Are there any other wires going to the relay other than the two side and the two bottom? Somehow something is not disconnecting the capacitor. I cannot tell from the photo where the relay contacts connect to, to the two bottom terminals or are the two bottom terminals really just one and there is another terminal that I cannot see? I believe that is somehow the problem. There is a black wire the connects the top set of relay points to the "frame", I assume to electrically bypass the hinge. Is there a connection to that black wire or is that connection to the black wire and upper set of points really one of the two terminals at the bottom of the relay. If there is a terminal near the top of the relay photo that is not connected then one set of the bottom wires needs to go there. I expect there are really no other missing terminals and the relay only has those 4. So I would remove the capacitor wire, the one going to the relay bottom left terminal. Place an ohm meter across the two bottom terminals, should read infinity. If not then the insulating material may be damaged and the two terminals are electrically one. That would keep the capacitor on and cause the failure. The relay terminal, bottom left, in the photo goes to the lower set of points and then to the capacitor, the lower right terminal has two wires but what is that connected to? I believe it should be insulated from the left terminal and should connect to the upper point. I also suspect it is really shorted either from bad insulation or the terminals/rivets are loose.
The jumper diagram may be incorrect on the resistor layout, I believe what you have is correct but the diagram may be an older diagram that did not show a change to the board. From the back of the board, the top left terminal wire with some tape on it appears to be thicker and I am assuming it is the line coming in. If that is true and you jumper for 220 volts, that wire would be connected only to the top right terminal which is not connected to anything so it would be the wire to nowhere! If that wire is L1 then something is wrong with the wiring. Do you know if the wires were removed from the terminals at one time?
I assume the 194 volts is generated by the starting windings and by itself would not mean much except the capacitor wires should have been disconnected from the starter winding at that point. So, the relay mechanically moves but is not disconnecting or is really not in the circuit correctly from misswiring.
Right now it would be good to know the wire numbers on those little tags, the continuity of the bottom relay terminals, how may terminals are on the relay, i.e. 4 or 5, and does it look like the wires going in to the back of the board have been changed or unscrewed. Good progress, should not be much longer to fix.
On your compressor, it sounds like the unloader may be stuck. Does it make a loud hiss when the compressor shuts off?