Ford 2N hydraulic problem

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Ford 2N hydraulic problem

Postby Bob McCarty » Sat Dec 03, 2005 7:11 pm

A friend just picked one up at an auction. Engine sounds great, but no movement in the hydraulics. He hasn't had a chance to buy any manuals, but wanted to know what to check other than fluid level. Any suggestions I can relay to him?
Thanks, Bob

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Postby Bigdog » Sat Dec 03, 2005 8:14 pm

Make sure he has the pto engaged. As I recall, these required the pto to be in gear to drive the internal hydraulic pump.
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Postby jostev » Sat Dec 03, 2005 8:17 pm

I think that your right BigDog, at least that's how it is with the 9N's

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Postby George Willer » Sat Dec 03, 2005 9:32 pm

jostev wrote:I think that your right BigDog, at least that's how it is with the 9N's


They're both exactly alike ( I have one of each). A couple things to check if putting the PTO in gear doesn't solve the problem:

1. Remove the round cover on the right side to see where the most oil action is then the control lever is operated. If the pump is working it will be very obvious.

2. Make sure the fork hasn't come loose from the control valve. The valve is below the surface of the oil so it will have to be checked by Braille.
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Dec 03, 2005 10:58 pm

And I thought our old Farmall H was a pain in that it had to have the clutch out.
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Postby Bob McCarty » Sat Dec 03, 2005 10:58 pm

Thanks, I'll pass on the info, and I'll bet he didn't know the PTO needed to be engaged. Bob

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Postby WKPoor » Sun Dec 04, 2005 9:25 pm

One other thing that can cause loss of hydro. A blown gasket in the pump. Had a 2N with that problem.
John, H's weren't nearly as bad as old Fords in the hydraulic arena. Yes you needed the clutch out but at least the PTO wasn't part of the mix also. I've used a digger behind both and the Ford is one real pain in the a----. Especially since most old Ford's leaked down quite fast and the only way to keep the auger in the air was leave it spinning also. And an old Ford isn't easy to make live either but an H or M can be done easy and pretty cheap.

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Postby ljw » Sun Dec 04, 2005 11:01 pm

If it has a Sherman tranny, it would have to be in gear, also. On my 9N I bent the control lever attached to the hydraulic punp. I was able to straighten it and the problem was solved. Larry

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Postby Jim Becker » Mon Dec 05, 2005 12:42 am

WKPoor wrote:I've used a digger behind both and the Ford is one real pain in the a----. Especially since most old Ford's leaked down quite fast and the only way to keep the auger in the air was leave it spinning also.

Ever have the auger screw itself into the ground? You can't get any lift without continuing to screw it in. You need to disengage it and put a wrench on the power shaft to unscrew it by hand.

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Postby WKPoor » Mon Dec 05, 2005 10:32 am

[/quote]Ever have the auger screw itself into the ground? You can't get any lift without continuing to screw it in. You need to disengage it and put a wrench on the power shaft to unscrew it by hand.

Yes I have Jim, actually many times. Thats when you discover the true lift potential of the machine. Also I'm sure the Ford could not lift the auger out of the ground unless it was spinning as it needs to be. Send an auger down into some mucky clay and you could be in for trouble. The Ford struggled with an 18"-the H plays with a 25". I can send the 25" all the way down, turn off the PTO and then gently lift it out of the ground not splattering the dirt anywhere. I've got an auger stuck with a Ford many, many times. As of yet never with the Farmall. Many have told me my 2N and the H are basically the same size tractor. Apperently they never used them side beside.

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Postby JBall8019 » Tue Dec 06, 2005 12:57 pm

And an old Ford isn't easy to make live either but an H or M can be done easy and pretty cheap.


Really?? the M that is in my barn doesnt have a live pto, how is this done, and does it take alot of skill?

Would a decent running 8n be worth $1000? I see alot of them around where i live for sale.

John

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Postby WKPoor » Tue Dec 06, 2005 6:32 pm

I was referring to live hydraulics. However converting to live PTO is possible for little more than the cost of a Ford NAA live hyd. pump. Pretty labor intensive though.

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Postby Marion(57 Loboy) » Tue Dec 06, 2005 8:34 pm

If the hydraulic system is engaged properly, and the pump works(which it probably does) but doesn't develop any pressure, check that the dump valve is not stuck OPEN . You can sure save hours of farting around verifying this valve CLOSES when it is supposed to.

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Wed Dec 07, 2005 9:19 am

JBall8019 wrote:
And an old Ford isn't easy to make live either but an H or M can be done easy and pretty cheap.


Really?? the M that is in my barn doesnt have a live pto, how is this done, and does it take alot of skill?

John
To coonvert an H or M to "live hydralics) you removed the left brake assembly and shaft and replaced it with an M&W or similar aftermarket unit that allowed you to release clutch which enabled the differential to freewill so you could stop traveling and keep the pto running. You could probably buy 2 H or M tractors for the price of one if you could find it.
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Postby George Willer » Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:27 am

Zane Sherman, who designed and sells an attachment to add position control to 9/2N's offers a kit to add live PTO to 9/2/8N's. If the live PTO works as well as the position control it's a great thing.
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