Need Advice on small engine tear down.....

Fri Mar 31, 2006 7:51 pm

I was just wondering how straight foward is taking apart a small engine, say a 16hp 656cc Briggs&Stratton engine :?: We have tons of expirence with regular engines, but I just wanted to see ifn there is anything "special" to doing it. I don't know what's wrong besides a really really bad "grrrrriinndd" when I crank it over..... PO said it could b a connecting rod cause of low compression. Thanks for any help, we are totally dumb when it comes to small engines....

Thanks, Johnny

Fri Mar 31, 2006 9:29 pm

forgot to mention, it's a Twin...

also, any ideas bout problems :?:

Thanks, Johnny

Fri Mar 31, 2006 10:49 pm

Nothing special about small engines. If you are familiar with bigger engines then the Briggs shouldn't be a problem.

Good luck on the grinding noise. The connecting rod would not be a cause of low compression.


Sun Apr 02, 2006 7:34 am

Johnny...I agree with Eugene! :wink: Generally, loss of compression would indicate bad rings, or a bad head gasket, or a crack in the head at the particular cylinder with the low compression. :wink: If your engine "noise" is a knock or slapping could be worn main bearings, or a worn connecting rod. Is It USING or BURNING OIL???:shock: Sadly Briggs & Stratton engines are known for their problems. I'd certainly rebuild it...if it were a KOHLER...a Briggs ??? well MAYBE??? :?

Sun Apr 02, 2006 12:44 pm

Thanks Country, we'v actually had good luck with Briggs, but Kohlers we like better :lol: it doesn't sound like a slap, just a really really bad grinding, I don't know ifn it burns oil cause I don't dare run it..... I might be able to get to it today or tomorrow and see if I can get it started...

Thanks, Johnny

I think ifn we don't rebuild, we will just find a different motor, cause it's got a mower deck and a snow blower, so it's kinda gonna need to be used this summer/winter.... :lol:

Sun Apr 02, 2006 1:12 pm

Johnny, I mentioned it in the cat room, but thiugth I would post it here also. Briigs V-twins have become noted for valves sticking, and sometimes bending push rods. Which is some information that bothers me, since I have an 8 year old one.

Sun Apr 02, 2006 1:16 pm

Yup, I remember this John, thanks again..... We might just get another different engine if it's seriously bad. I have waaay too many projects right now tho :lol:


Mon Apr 03, 2006 3:23 pm


I did two things when I started having problems with my Briggs in my Craftsman 12.5 ride on..

I bought the Briggs and Stratton Engine Service Manual and I bought the Tecumseh Manual to boot..

If you are going to play with rebuilding the B&S... get the manual... it WILL save you a lot of grief.....

No, don't ask :roll: :oops: :roll: :cry: :cry:

And yes, I have a 12.5 for parts....... :shock: :? :? :?

Mon Apr 03, 2006 5:33 pm

Two-strokes were supposed to be simpler due to less moving parts, but everything has to be perfect for them to run, from air flow to non-fouled plugs to fuel flow to non-scored cylinders (gas mix) blah blah blah.

I hate 'em ever since I bought 4 go-karts for the kids and also had to maintain the lawn mowers (two riders and a pusher), the snow blower and the tiller, two chain saws and two weed wackers... That's altogether too many 2-stroke engines! Well, the tiller is a 4-stroke splasher, but it *acts* like a two-stroke.

Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:15 pm

And one thing many people overlook on a 2 stroke is that if the crankshaft seals leak they won't start due to not being able to pull enough vaccum to draw air through the carb.

Tue Apr 04, 2006 4:08 pm

Thanks guys, Rudi, I will try and get the manual sono once I get some time to see exactly what engine it is.....

Thanks again, Johnny

Tue Apr 04, 2006 4:49 pm

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:And one thing many people overlook on a 2 stroke is that if the crankshaft seals leak they won't start due to not being able to pull enough vaccum to draw air through the carb.

On most types of 2 stroke engines the fuel is drawn into the crankcase on the upward stroke of the engine through a reed valve. As the piston comes down the fuel in the crankcase is then pushed up into the transfer ports in the cylinder which along with the piston act like valves. If the seals are leaking the fuel can not be pushed up as efficiently or drawn form the carb as the piston comes up.
2 strokes are very simple, thus my favorite engine. The fuel timing can be varied with devices that change the heights of the exhaust and some of the transfer ports at various rpm. This is done to obtain a consistent power band instead of a power band like an on/off switch :lol:

Thu Apr 06, 2006 11:46 pm

To get back to Johhny's engine, the 656 cc 16 HP Briggs/Stratton opposed twin, used on Cub Cadet 582 machines and other machines of its time was a fairly decent pressure-lubed engine. Most failures seen on them now look to be scored up cylinder walls. While not a bad engine, it is IMHO that perticular engine would be better off replaced with something more modern rather than investing money into rebuilding it, as to properly replace all of the worn internals of it would bring the cost to a point to where a new modern repower kit would be a better bet.


Fri Apr 07, 2006 6:52 pm

Thanks Fordlords, I will keep that in mind, I will keep my eye out for a different engine, and maybe just tear apart this one just to see, doesn't cost money to tear apart :lol:

Thanks, Johnny