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Stuck clutch
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- junkman1946
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 761
- Joined: Thu Oct 19, 2006 2:31 pm
- Location: Cape Cod Ma.
Stuck clutch
My "other" tractor is a 42 Ford 9n. Hasn't run in at least ten years. Now its come to life but the d--- clutch is stuck. Sounds like the T.O. bearing is pushing the fingers but she won't break free. No inspection hole. just the starter hole I squirted about 8ozs. of Kerosene on the clutch as best I could. Any ideas before I split her? . Thanks Frank
1948 Cub F,1962 Original,1971 C.C.model86, WheelHorse and C.C. mini pulling tractors, C.C. models1450 , 682,106,123, Ariens GT17 with loader,Jacobsen Powermax loader and backhoe 8 more Cub Cadets in the shed waiting to go under the knife and spray gun.
- Bigdog
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 24144
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
- Zip Code: 43113
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Circleville
- Contact:
Sometimes driving around with the clutch pushed in frees it.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
- George Willer
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7013
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 9:36 pm
- Zip Code: 43420
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OHIO, Fremont
- Contact:
Re: Stuck clutch
junkman1946 wrote:My "other" tractor is a 42 Ford 9n. Hasn't run in at least ten years. Now its come to life but the d--- clutch is stuck. Sounds like the T.O. bearing is pushing the fingers but she won't break free. No inspection hole. just the starter hole I squirted about 8ozs. of Kerosene on the clutch as best I could. Any ideas before I split her? . Thanks Frank
Frank,
Tie the clutch pedal down. Point in a harmless direction and start the engine with the transmission in first gear. KEEP IN MIND YOU CAN STOP THE PROGRAM WITH THE IGNITION KEY. Carefully with skillful manipulation of the throttle get it shifted through the gears up to 3rd gear and travelling at high speed. Then slam on both brakes as hard and quickly as you can. It worked for the stuck clutch on my 8N, so it may on yours.
George Willer
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
-
- 10+ Years
Tie the clutch pedal down. Point in a harmless direction and start the engine with the transmission in first gear. KEEP IN MIND YOU CAN STOP THE PROGRAM WITH THE IGNITION KEY. Carefully with skillful manipulation of the throttle get it shifted through the gears up to 3rd gear and travelling at high speed. Then slam on both brakes as hard and quickly as you can. It worked for the stuck clutch on my 8N, so it may on yours.
Assuming the brakes work???? Seems to me old Fords are particularly bad about brakes not working.
- grumpy
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 2780
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 12:03 am
- Zip Code: 15522
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: PA. Bedford (Centerville)
I totaly agree with hitting the brakes HARD. it worked with ours. Nevermind the fact it was climbing an apple tree at the time and I had 3 feet on the clutch and the other 3 on the brakes but in all honesty it worked fairly well after that. Maybe it put the fear of God in the tractor I had in me. Let us know how things work out. Thanks. Dave
David Dee Mock-Leonard
Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints
Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 684
- Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 3:03 pm
- Zip Code: 90210
- Location: 90210
There is something about driving it into a tree that fixes the stuck clutch
Anyone?
Anyone?
3969 Members
1954 Cub quick hitch /Plow
1947 Ford 2N
1948 Green Machine Model M (i know)
Knowledge Is Power
and Power is Knowledge
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of the low price is forgotten."
1954 Cub quick hitch /Plow
1947 Ford 2N
1948 Green Machine Model M (i know)
Knowledge Is Power
and Power is Knowledge
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of the low price is forgotten."
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 684
- Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 3:03 pm
- Zip Code: 90210
- Location: 90210
Try this link You Have to do an archive search for Stuck Clutch
http://www.ntractorclub.com/forums/nboard/nboard.htm
http://www.ntractorclub.com/forums/nboard/nboard.htm
Last edited by TOOLMAN on Tue Jan 09, 2007 10:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 684
- Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 3:03 pm
- Zip Code: 90210
- Location: 90210
Clutch - Methods to Free a Sticking One- by Lee Vermeiren & John Bower (tOTG)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The clutch on my 8N was sticking and failing to release when the pedal was depressed. I got advice saying what I expected, that the fix was to replace the clutch and that oil fouling was the culprit.
I got one reply from a post over on YT with a cheap and easy fix that I decided to try. As suggested I removed the starter, took a can of choke/carb cleaner and modified the tip of the spray tube to almost a 90 degree angle with a lighter so it'd spray where I wanted. I used a C-clamp to block down the clutch and hopefully allow the carb cleaner to hit all the surfaces. I used the carb cleaner to spray the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel surfaces, turning the flywheel with a screwdriver after thoroughly soaking things and repeated this process a number of times. The excess, dirty carb cleaner just ran out the weep hole. The clutch works like a new one. It releases like it should and engages nice and smooth. I can't say how long it'll last but the poster said he hadn't had to repeat the process in over 2 years. I hope this saves somebody some time and money. I just love cheap and easy fixes.
Note: It's been over a year now since I freed my clutch using the carb cleaner and have had no problems what so ever.
Lee Vermeiren
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Seems like there are always threads about Ns with the clutch disengaging erratically, if at all. Several things cause this; lack of regular use, gummy oil on the clutch plate from a leaking seal in transmission, moisture leading to rust. The correct solution is to split the tractor and repair/replace the issues. Participants on this site often look for shortcuts to avoid the work and expense involved in the full repair...block the pedal down, drag the brakes, drive tractor into a tree, etc. I've found a shortcut fix that works better than all others.
Brake cleaner sprayed on the clutch plate and flywheel will cause the clutch to function properly without sticking. First, the clutch must be disengaged. Heat is the best aid I've found. In lieu of a hot summer day, I direct the heat from my salamander jobsite heater at the bell housing with the clutch pedal blocked down. If the clutch doesn't spontaneously release I may need to start the tractor in gear and drag the brakes.
I drill a 7/32" hole into the bell housing on the right side about 2" back from the parting line at about the 2:00 O'clock position. Using the little tube supplied with the brake cleaner can I spray fluid into the compartment in the direction of the back of the flywheel. With the brakes locked on I do this with the engine running and the clutch pedal depressed, then ride the clutch for a couple of seconds. This creates heat and friction on the clutch disk and aids the clutch cleaner to work the guck out of the clutch disk. Be sure the drip hole in the bottom of the housing is open because a lot of nasty stuff runs out. I repeat this time and again until I've used the entire can of cleaner. When finished I tap my 7/32 hole to 1/4"x20 and close the hole with a stubby machine screw.
This method has worked every time I've used it.
Best regards,
tOTG (the Old Tractor Guy)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here are a couple of other techniques to break the clutch free and save splitting the tractor:
If the clutch has not been stuck for long you can probably get it unstuck by jacking up one wheel and with the tractor out in the open or with the bumper against a big tree with no slack between the two. Start the tractor and with it in high gear (4th) with the clutch pedal tied down and the engine RPM all the way open, drop the jack so that the wheel hits the ground suddenly and if it doesn't come loose the first time try it a couple more. Most of the time it will come loose if in fact it is stuck and not damaged in some way.
Anonymous
Best internet source
of information and help
for old Ford tractors.
http://www.ntractorclub.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The clutch on my 8N was sticking and failing to release when the pedal was depressed. I got advice saying what I expected, that the fix was to replace the clutch and that oil fouling was the culprit.
I got one reply from a post over on YT with a cheap and easy fix that I decided to try. As suggested I removed the starter, took a can of choke/carb cleaner and modified the tip of the spray tube to almost a 90 degree angle with a lighter so it'd spray where I wanted. I used a C-clamp to block down the clutch and hopefully allow the carb cleaner to hit all the surfaces. I used the carb cleaner to spray the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel surfaces, turning the flywheel with a screwdriver after thoroughly soaking things and repeated this process a number of times. The excess, dirty carb cleaner just ran out the weep hole. The clutch works like a new one. It releases like it should and engages nice and smooth. I can't say how long it'll last but the poster said he hadn't had to repeat the process in over 2 years. I hope this saves somebody some time and money. I just love cheap and easy fixes.
Note: It's been over a year now since I freed my clutch using the carb cleaner and have had no problems what so ever.
Lee Vermeiren
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Seems like there are always threads about Ns with the clutch disengaging erratically, if at all. Several things cause this; lack of regular use, gummy oil on the clutch plate from a leaking seal in transmission, moisture leading to rust. The correct solution is to split the tractor and repair/replace the issues. Participants on this site often look for shortcuts to avoid the work and expense involved in the full repair...block the pedal down, drag the brakes, drive tractor into a tree, etc. I've found a shortcut fix that works better than all others.
Brake cleaner sprayed on the clutch plate and flywheel will cause the clutch to function properly without sticking. First, the clutch must be disengaged. Heat is the best aid I've found. In lieu of a hot summer day, I direct the heat from my salamander jobsite heater at the bell housing with the clutch pedal blocked down. If the clutch doesn't spontaneously release I may need to start the tractor in gear and drag the brakes.
I drill a 7/32" hole into the bell housing on the right side about 2" back from the parting line at about the 2:00 O'clock position. Using the little tube supplied with the brake cleaner can I spray fluid into the compartment in the direction of the back of the flywheel. With the brakes locked on I do this with the engine running and the clutch pedal depressed, then ride the clutch for a couple of seconds. This creates heat and friction on the clutch disk and aids the clutch cleaner to work the guck out of the clutch disk. Be sure the drip hole in the bottom of the housing is open because a lot of nasty stuff runs out. I repeat this time and again until I've used the entire can of cleaner. When finished I tap my 7/32 hole to 1/4"x20 and close the hole with a stubby machine screw.
This method has worked every time I've used it.
Best regards,
tOTG (the Old Tractor Guy)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here are a couple of other techniques to break the clutch free and save splitting the tractor:
If the clutch has not been stuck for long you can probably get it unstuck by jacking up one wheel and with the tractor out in the open or with the bumper against a big tree with no slack between the two. Start the tractor and with it in high gear (4th) with the clutch pedal tied down and the engine RPM all the way open, drop the jack so that the wheel hits the ground suddenly and if it doesn't come loose the first time try it a couple more. Most of the time it will come loose if in fact it is stuck and not damaged in some way.
Anonymous
Best internet source
of information and help
for old Ford tractors.
http://www.ntractorclub.com
3969 Members
1954 Cub quick hitch /Plow
1947 Ford 2N
1948 Green Machine Model M (i know)
Knowledge Is Power
and Power is Knowledge
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of the low price is forgotten."
1954 Cub quick hitch /Plow
1947 Ford 2N
1948 Green Machine Model M (i know)
Knowledge Is Power
and Power is Knowledge
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of the low price is forgotten."
- junkman1946
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 761
- Joined: Thu Oct 19, 2006 2:31 pm
- Location: Cape Cod Ma.
Heres the final chapter in the saga of the sticking clutch..I went out yesterday p.m. and towed and drove and pushed and did nothing but dig up the dirt road I live on. This a.m. I went out and tried Toolmans carb cleaner remedy. Succeded in making a nice clean spot on the concrete floor right under the tractor weep hole. Enough is enough- got out the 11/16 wrench and split it. Wasn't that bad- hood and tank were already off. Mice built a nest in the clutch housing, got in while it was sitting with no starter. Took out 1/2 of a 5 gal. pail of nest. This crap wrapped around the front tranny shaft and stuck the throw out bearing to the shaft, crud also in the pressure plate. Alls well now. Bet thats a new one for the "stuck clutch"archives on the 8n forum. BTW thanks to all for your timely responses. Frank
1948 Cub F,1962 Original,1971 C.C.model86, WheelHorse and C.C. mini pulling tractors, C.C. models1450 , 682,106,123, Ariens GT17 with loader,Jacobsen Powermax loader and backhoe 8 more Cub Cadets in the shed waiting to go under the knife and spray gun.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 684
- Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 3:03 pm
- Zip Code: 90210
- Location: 90210
Dang Mice they do it everytime
What you did is the Best remedy for the stuck clutch problem.
Now you know what caused the problem and it is fixed.
Good Luck
I have a 1947 2N Myself I Like it!
Toolman Tony
What you did is the Best remedy for the stuck clutch problem.
Now you know what caused the problem and it is fixed.
Good Luck
I have a 1947 2N Myself I Like it!
Toolman Tony
3969 Members
1954 Cub quick hitch /Plow
1947 Ford 2N
1948 Green Machine Model M (i know)
Knowledge Is Power
and Power is Knowledge
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of the low price is forgotten."
1954 Cub quick hitch /Plow
1947 Ford 2N
1948 Green Machine Model M (i know)
Knowledge Is Power
and Power is Knowledge
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of the low price is forgotten."
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