Trailer Tie Downs

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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Barnyard » Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:46 pm

Image
These are what I am using. If I didn't need them this weekend I would have gotten them on line for about $5.00 each instead of the $10.00 at the trailer guy or TSC.
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Barnyard » Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:51 pm

Jim Becker wrote:Look at the plate that is part of the D rings and come up with something at least as sturdy for the bottom side.

Another good point. The top will be flush with the wood but the bottom will extend out from the cross member so it might flex a bit there when tightened down. I might be safer with something a bit thicker on the bottom.
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Winfield Dave » Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:28 pm

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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Barnyard » Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:37 pm

Thanks Dave. i think I will stop down my welder buddy's place and get some flat stock that the same dimension but is as thick or a bit thicker than the tie down. Then I will just drill the holes and straddle the frame.
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Gary Dotson » Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:06 am

Bill, I think 1/4" plate should work well for your application. I think your plan will work quite well. If the holes in your mounting plates are 3/8", which I suspect they are, grade 5 bolts should be plenty strong. You might consider using nylon lock nuts on them.
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Paul B » Thu Feb 03, 2011 9:21 am

I use D rings, but not the recessed ones in the square metal plates. You are reducing the thickness of the wood by about a 1/3 or more with the recessed rings. The rings straddle the crossmembers with a bolt on each side that go thru a 1/4"plate under the crossmember. I would not trust a tiedown just bolted to the wood.
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Mr E » Thu Feb 03, 2011 9:43 am

Paul B wrote:I use D rings, but not the recessed ones in the square metal plates. You are reducing the thickness of the wood by about a 1/3 or more with the recessed rings. The rings straddle the crossmembers with a bolt on each side that go thru a 1/4"plate under the crossmember. I would not trust a tiedown just bolted to the wood.


Wow, never saw that many Drings in a trailer! Nice job. Hmmmm, I would have to agree with you about reducing the thickness of the wood. Decisions, decisions. :lol: :lol:
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby cowboy » Thu Feb 03, 2011 11:35 am

Bill I have a metal deck but I used the same ones you got. I put them next to frame members and they are welded to the frame and the deck. The tie point is only as strong as whatever its hooked to. If you need flex get a binder with a spring on it.

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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby b52c130 » Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:21 pm

Bill,
Have you considered all the pros and cons to the recessed type rings?

Pros;
They give a cleaner smoother overall deck for dragging things over and sweeping.

Cons;
You have to 'hog out' a 3-1/2" diameter hole approximately 7/8" deep into the wood plank to mount. Very labor intensive to install.
This ends up providing a 'water pocket' in each location that promotes wood rot in the planks.
Hard to securely fasten to the trailer cross framing.
The recessed area of the ring makes a perfect place for mud and debris to accumulate - hard to clean. and promotes rusting of the recessed mounting hardware.
Recessed rings are subject to snow/ice/freezing during the Winter.

For my own trailer, I chose 6,000# Stainless Steel 'D' Rings (about $7) mounted cross ways to the trailer (parallel to the cross frame members) drilled through the cross members (two bolts) with galvanized bolts, washers, and double nuts. I traded the corrosion resistance of galvanized verses the strength of Grade5, but that depends upon your particular application.

More ideas to put into the decision process, NJDale
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Barnyard » Thu Feb 03, 2011 6:51 pm

Here is somewhat of a side view of my plan.

Image

This is what I had originally wanted to do until Trailer Guy gave his opinion and had me thinking. After reading responses here I am going to stick with my first thought. I will be using 3/8" x 6" grade 8 bolts with nylon lock nuts. The anchor plates are 3/16" thick and the tie downs are rated at 5,000 lbs. My new Rigid drill with the 3" drill bit will make quick work of poking holes in the 2/8 floor.

My enclosed trailer has a 3/4" plywood floor with the tie downs only bolted to the floor and not around the cross members and has held a Jeep in place all these years. I feel pretty good about going around the frame on the open trailer.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Don McCombs » Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:02 pm

I think that plan will serve you well.
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Barnyard » Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:09 pm

Don McCombs wrote:I think that plan will serve you well.

I figure it will too Don. I had bought four D rings from the guy since he is the cheapest around here at $10.00 each. A few minutes ago I bought eight more USA made D rings online for $3.83 each. I need to do more surfing. :lol:
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Mr E » Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:52 pm

Where'd you find them for that price, Bill?
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Barnyard » Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:58 pm

Mr E wrote:Where'd you find them for that price, Bill?

Roy, here is the web site. http://www.wholesaletrailersupplies.com/

Image

At least the photo shows one that has USA on it. It will be interesting to see what they send.
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Re: Trailer Tie Downs

Postby Winfield Dave » Thu Feb 03, 2011 8:40 pm

Barnyard wrote:...bought four D rings...bought eight more...
Bill...are you trying to catch up to Paul B...with his 25 D-rings? :lol:
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