Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:03 am
I need a little help on a friends G that he is getting me to fix for him. He is a little old and can't do as well as he use to. The brakes on the G need to be seriously tightened and all of the adjustment is taken up. In order to get to them, do you have to take the axel out of the tube and take the tube off the tractor to get at it? Is there any place to get these shoes if I have to replace them? Oh, on the right side of the tractor there is shaft sticking ou the back of the brakes with a spring on it. This is missing on the left side. It is at the bottom of the brake housing, rear side. The hole is there for a shaft but no shaft or spring
Thanks for any help
Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:15 am
Doug, I don't have a G, but I do have a manual. It looks like the axle does need to be removed. They also show a shop "puller" to get the drum off. If you want to PM me your address, I can copy several pages and mail them to you.
Mon Mar 14, 2011 8:43 pm
You can find any information that you want on the G at www.allischalmers.com
forum as well as vendors that cater to the AC. I have purchased from Tony's Tractors and was very satisfied with service and products. Hope this helps. Stan
Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:37 am
Thanks guys. I will try to get the wheels off and see what else is in there. I might have some more help on it.
Bob- I will PM you and get those copies.
Sat Mar 19, 2011 7:15 pm
Doug I do have a few left over parts for an Allis G if the need arises.
Mon Mar 21, 2011 10:12 am
Thanks for the offer of the parts, but right now I have a SERIOUS problem. None to 5 lbs of compression
I re-adjusted the valves to get the proper back lash set since the person who rebuilt the motor didn't set it proper and squirted some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders. I got some readings of around 50 after that but it is using a hand crank and for anyone who doesn't know, the support for the hand crank is on the hood. Once you take that off to work on the motor it is harder to hand crank. I am going to try a start up with the starter soon and hopefully
it will run alright. I am afraid it is looking like another set of rings and valve lapping since it was low on compression. The other thing I noticed is the breather tube was diconnected at the canister and I don't know how long the owner ran it this way
He lives in the sand hills of the region so it might look like a sand blasted motor, only from the inside out
I will let ya'll know what happens!
Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:20 am
Good luck with that engine. I have pistons etc.
Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:08 am
In case anyone is following this post I have an update. I got the motor running and it ended up having 95 lbs of compression across all the cylinders
I guess getting the valves set and some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders did the trick. It runs real smooth and I hope to go test its power here today. I got the brakes relined with new lining and they work great now. I might have to put a seat belt on the tractor to keep from throwing the owner off if he steps on the brakes fast. Before the pedal would go al the way down and it seemed like your foot was dragging the ground to get it to stop. A little more electrical work on the conversion to 12 volts and it should be ready to go. It sure spins fast with 12 behind that starter.
Thanks again for all of your help guys. It is good to know there are some people who still have some knowledge of these little tractors. Doesn't seem like there are very many left (I guess compared to Fcubs)
Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:28 am
Doug, I'm curious, when they relined your brakes, did they rivet or bond on the new linings? Glad to hear you got her going.
Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:11 am
The place I took the old shoes to was in Charlotte, and then they sent them out of state to someone else to have the lings applied to the old shoes. They did a really nice job. Sand blasted the shoes and tripped the rivets off. Then applied the new bonded pads and baked them in an oven to get them hard. With the UPS charges both ways (to and from where ever they are) and all four shoes relined it was $72.00. That sure is better then what I could buy them for new at Sterner. I didn't want to go that way. I beleive they bond them because of the 3/16 thickness material but that might be a very good option for cub brakes since they are the same thickness and curved in a very tight radius like the 'G' is. The only differnece is one applies out and the other applies inward pressure to stop. If you need a name of the company let me know. I will send it to you and you can call them. The work was done and back to me in 3 days.
I took the tractor over the gentlemans house this past Saturday. He put on his layoff plow and proceed to go plow his sisters garden first. Then his was going to get it planted. The tractor was doing great and he was smiling from ear to ear. I told him that those tractors are not a fat man tractor. You have to be thin, agile, limber, a contortionust, and double jointed almost to get on and off of it. The cubs are a lot better for getting on and off, but he was very happy and that makes me happy to see him using it. At 87?, let him have some fun plowing in his garden.
Tue Apr 12, 2011 12:18 pm
Doug, I have a friend here that restored a G Allis. Clean enough to eat sunday dinner off of, don't know if he had any left over parts. I found a place that does friction linnings in Landis, NC. They helped me with a Wheel Horse pto clutch linning. An older tractor repair shop put me on to them. Coan Equipment Co.
Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:00 am
Thanks Dan, I will have to look them up if there is anymore friction stuff to do. I know will have to do some on a 47 cub I am rebuilding. That G is an intersting tractor to work on. They sure put alot of stuff under that little hood (my wife called it a trunk
) Makes a cub look like a empty parking lot under its hood.
Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:03 am
Dad's first tractor was a "G". Cultivators and a disc plow, horse drawn disk and 8' harrow.
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