IH but off the cub line

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Postby Jack Donovan » Thu Jan 20, 2005 11:05 pm

Glad to bring back a couple memory's :o I to have many and this is why I always forget my "Camra" :lol: :lol: . Have bean doing the electrollis tank, and getting things cleened up. Waiting for parts catolog and empty my light wallet. This is a whole new ball game for me but now days with the compute, learning is faster even for us old farts" lots of fun. Maybe can get someone to post "Pic's" if I e-mail to them. "Jack"
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Postby artc » Mon Jan 24, 2005 10:32 am

Jack:

low tension motors can be difficult to start. my dad's low tension engines have a 9volt makita rechargable battery or the like for starting and use a knife switch to flip them over to run. He's put them in small wooden boxes with the knife switch on top so they don't look out of place. seems pretty popular, though, 'cause i see them set-up like that often.
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Postby Jack Donovan » Mon Jan 24, 2005 9:37 pm

Well now that is interesting, So what your saying is that the low tensity mag is a little on the week sige when the engine turns slow verses a high tensity mag. Is that correct? Next ? how do you keep the Batt. power from backfeeding to the mag and not ruining the mag. You have my attention here arct" :idea:
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Postby artc » Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:49 am

i believe you are only injecting the batt voltage while you are spinning the flywheel to start. once running, they simply open the knife to remove the batt voltage. it's not an area i'm real familiar with, except for the basics, i'll ask, though.
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Postby Jack Donovan » Tue Jan 25, 2005 8:59 pm

Sounds good' Please do :idea:
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Postby beaconlight » Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:56 pm

Now I know why my grandfather cussed at mags. This was in the 30's and early 40's. I always thought that he wouldn't spring for parts or it was the salt water. They were on his boats.

Bill
Bill

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Postby artc » Sat Jan 29, 2005 10:16 am

ok here's the info you were looking for.

Image

Image

Image

and a couple of sources for the igniter coil. you can also use a 6 volt coil primary winding. battery source can be anything, but the rechargable cordless drill batteries seem to be popular, especially if you have an old charger stand that doesn't work to use as a connection point

Dad tells me that the basic problem is the loss of magnetism in the internal coil to get a good spark while starting. there is enough to keep them running once they have been started.

hope this helps
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Postby Jack Donovan » Sat Jan 29, 2005 8:03 pm

I couldn't get through . hit the X's and nothing. "Jack"
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Postby artc » Sat Jan 29, 2005 9:28 pm

should be ok now...somebody on my network was hogging all the server time. if it doesn't, i'll fax it to you. art
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Postby Jack Donovan » Sun Jan 30, 2005 3:57 pm

Thanks alot" I'm starting to understand now, I thought that I could use another coil as you also sugested. I'm just wondering how the timming would be set then. If you have the oridginal mag I can see it working. But with out the mag, something has to hold the curnt untill the igniter brakes. Or am I all wet on this. Are those mags for sale real or was that an old Add.
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Postby artc » Sun Jan 30, 2005 5:51 pm

the points are breaking the circuit, causing an inductance in a small generator type magnetic field (permanent magnets passing a coil). the battery / external coil is doing the same thing, just being a guaranteed source. the points arcing inside the combustion chamber causes ignition. now, the condensor on more modern battery ignition systems is in place solely to eliminate the very spark that your engine is relying on to run. the condensor's job is to protect the points from arcing and getting black and pitted. (well, it helped, anyway)

yes, those are two current sources for the parts you might need.
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Postby Jack Donovan » Sun Feb 06, 2005 11:47 am

Thaks alot. I'm getting it now" :oops:
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