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Thu Sep 01, 2011 9:24 pm
I have a 22 sickle bar and I think i need to do some welding.
I believe this plate should be welded to the flywheel shaft tube
can any one confirm this?
Thu Sep 01, 2011 10:18 pm
If thats the correct end..... the plate is welded to the round cover, not the tube.
I've never used mine, maybe it should be welded? I'll look closer tomorrow.
Thu Sep 01, 2011 10:26 pm
No, it is the other end, the end that the pitman arm attaches to.
Fri Sep 02, 2011 11:46 am
Yes, it should be welded. Also, if your coupling bar has the big bend that it appears to have in the first picture, you need to fix that too. Based on what it would take to bend the coupling bar, you should check the cutter bar for bends too.
Fri Sep 02, 2011 2:13 pm
Thanks, I could not tell from the manual, it shows the plate attached in one view and not in another. yes I do plan on fixing the coupling bar too. Dad hit a rock with the mower and said it stopped him dead, you can't tell in the picture of the un-attached plate but that it was bent too. The cutter bar is OK, he hit right in the center of the tractor. I have all the new teeth, rivots and wear plates just need to find some of that International Blue paint. anyone have on online source, or know where i can find it here in Taxachusetts
Fri Sep 02, 2011 3:06 pm
I've used Van Sickle 460 International Blue and been happy with it. You can get it from Ken Updike at Carter & Gruenewald.http://www.cngco.com/
Kenneth Updike Parts /Internet/ Toy Sales 608.455.2411 Brooklyn firstname.lastname@example.org
Here is a recent thread on paint:http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=64132
Fri Sep 02, 2011 4:10 pm
Thanks Jim, Paint is on the way, I will post some more pictures as I progress on this restore/repair...
Fri Sep 02, 2011 4:25 pm
Pretty hard to weld the tube to the hanger because of the bronze bushing inside the tube. The heat will melt the expensive bushing. What I did was make a set screw with a jamb nut on the belt adjuster to hold the tube tight to the pulley shield. This keeps it in place and also keeps the tube from rotating. It is working well for me.
Fri Sep 02, 2011 6:32 pm
BIGHOSS wrote:Pretty hard to weld the tube to the hanger because of the bronze bushing inside the tube. The heat will melt the expensive bushing.
Good point. Another option is to pull the bushing while welding then reinstall it. It would be a good idea to look at the wear on the bushing before starting. There may be some benefit to turning it 90 degrees when reinstalling it.
Fri Sep 02, 2011 6:55 pm
I am going to replace that bushing mine is worn down, problem is the shaft is worn on that end also. I am going to make a up a split bushing out of oil-lite bronze as the pully end of the shaft is larger than the pitman end. I will need to slide the shaft in almost all the way then push in the split bushing in the tube.
Fri Sep 02, 2011 7:04 pm
Original paint and decals on mine. All red, except for the pitman and grass rod assembly. Those are cream.
Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:30 am
I suggest disassembling the mower for inspection and repair/replacement of every damaged part. Welding is easier when access is better and positioning is possible. For that weld, I doubt that the bushing will be damaged. Copper plates are used to back up the weld area on sheet metal repairs when MIG welding rust perforated areas. Copper and it's alloys wick heat away rapidly. I would weld the broken part with 7018 electrodes, not MIG. Contrary to conventional practice, I would consider leaving all the existing weld to aid in proper alignment, tack the parts thoroughly (6011 electrode is good for this) , and then grind limited portions and weld there before grinding the opposite area and welding it .
I built up the badly worn pulley end of the mower tube with MIG and ground it back to shape with no damage to the bushing.
Sat Sep 03, 2011 10:04 am
I learned to weld many moons ago with 6010 DC and 6011 AC rods. But, after burning a few 7014 rods, It became my rod of choice. 7014 is not a low hydrogen rod as the 7018. A little moisture in a 7014 does not hurt the welding. 7018 needs to be kept very dry. Just MHO.
Mon Sep 05, 2011 8:15 am
I used to prefer 6011's because that is what I learned on with Dad. Now after my course I have become a little wiser/accustomed to different rods and different types of welding. 7014's are now my rod of choice. Lots of metal gets laid on rather quick and good flow. I keep my rods in the plastic sealed rod keepers. My
Tue Sep 06, 2011 11:32 pm
What type of wood do you make a new pitman arm out of ?
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