Wed Feb 09, 2005 11:24 pm
Over the past year I've come to realize the value of a front mounted hitch. I put one on my truck, the Cub and now the H. My first attempt on the H ended in a big surprise at how easily I broke the lower bolster ( that lowered ball mount was not on at the time I broke it- it was broke from a straight out pull reference 1st pic). After that event I wondered about how strong that lower bolster really is as many guys trailer their tractors with a strap from that point. In fact many people sell a thing to bolt on there for that purpose. The next pic shows my improved version that I feel more confident will hold up. The upper bolster is beefy with 4ea. 3/4" bolt holes already there. The angle is 3/8" 2x2 with a 1/2' plate welded on top. The drop mount gets me down level with wagons and trailers. Also by having a receiver up front the possibilities are endless as to what else I can adapt to the front, Weight bar, front mount sprayer,ect. Last Sunday I used the hitch to move some wagons around and you can thread a needle with a wagon on the front. Beats all the cuusing I do with a wagon on the back.
Thu Feb 10, 2005 6:32 am
Looks real purty.
Thu Feb 10, 2005 7:05 am
That looks nice and neat. Beautiful job. Do you have any pics of the cub hitch that you made?
Thu Feb 10, 2005 9:30 am
Never used one to pull the tractor, but used one for years for backing wagons and such in tight spots, really was handy unless the ground was soft, then you really needed power steering. As a side note, I would not reccomend towing the older tractors more than 20 mph max.
Thu Feb 10, 2005 9:49 am
John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:As a side note, I would not reccomend towing the older tractors more than 20 mph max.
Especially in reverse
Thu Feb 10, 2005 10:15 am
Thanks for the warning. I saw the front hitchs on e-bay and was going to make one for my super C. I wondered about the strenght of that casting,
Now I know.
Thu Feb 10, 2005 6:07 pm
Do you have any pics of the cub hitch that you made?
I don't have anything all that good so I'll take a pic or 2 this weekend. Tha Cub hitch is actually part of a snow frame after the blade is removed. I had (last winter) a custom front blade assembly made by a local fab shop. Got more in it that I do the Cub by far. It has power up-down and power angle. The hole blade is somewhat based off a Myeres truck plow. The angle cylinders ( not in pic) were ordered from Myers. The pic I'm posting is before it was finished and the receiver wasn't yet on.
Thu Feb 10, 2005 6:27 pm
Now I have another question. Did you tap into the Cub system for hydraulics and if you did, does the Cub system handle the 3 cylinders as far as volumn of fluid or did you need some other holding tank? The reason I'm asking is because I'm putting a dual control valve on a Cub with a rear 3 point(with it's own cylinder) to mount a rear scraper blade and I want a front cylinder to angle the snow blade. Looks like a neat set-up. Bet you have fun with that when it snows.
Thu Feb 10, 2005 6:39 pm
If he pre fills everything and refills a couple of times with the first few operations he can probably get away with no resivour. What do you think??? Gosh i spell horribly.
Thu Feb 10, 2005 6:41 pm
Dennis is it possible to add a spell checker for when we know we are wrong but don't know how to fix it?? I would give an arm and a leg not to look so foolish some times.
Thu Feb 10, 2005 10:13 pm
Thu Feb 10, 2005 10:41 pm
Thu Feb 10, 2005 11:14 pm
If you have all double acting cylinders all operating in the extend mode as opposed to the retract mode, you have a drop in fluid level because of the area taken up by the piston itself. If I have the 3 point cylinder up, the front blade angled right and the touch control cylinder out, the level will drop. How much is my concern. It's not an even fluid transfer. The Cub fluid capacity isn't that big, that's why I was worried about this. I guess your setup would be different because with the Meyers single acting cylinders on each side, it would be an exact even transfer. Mine will be 3 doubles in the system. My log splitter is a perfect example. If I extend the main cylinder all the way out to split and I have the hydraulic table in the up position, the fluid level drops about 1 inch. I guess if I get my calculator out and figure the areas of all the pistons together, that will give me a total amount.
Thu Feb 10, 2005 11:58 pm
AAAAH, You are correct but the difference is pretty small such that the reservoir should handle the little bit. The angle cylinders are an even trade you are correct. The lift cylinder in my pic is only 2" if I remember right. No real penelty there. And of coarse the hole thing is predecated on being intermittent operation. Now the splitter is an alltogether different animal. I too built one that is all done but the hoses. It has a 30gpm pump and a 21 gal reservoir. I noticed last summer using my neibors splitter that the fluid can get real hot when the ambient is above 60F. So rather than put a cooler on I just made the reserve oil capacity bigger. If it still gets hot, well then I'll add the cooler. Now you know a person could bypass the touch control alltogether and actually simplify the hole thing. At that point it would just like my H system just scaled down a bit. Just mount a tank where the touch control is and put the valve next to the seat. My valve does mount next to the seat upside down with the handles reversed. Very comfortable to operate. the H valves are nice because when you are hooking up standing in the rear you've got them right within easy reach. I probably use them off as much as on.
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