18ft trailer

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18ft trailer

Postby John(videodoc) » Mon Aug 12, 2013 2:35 pm

The trailer i use to haul my tractors on has decided to not light up. I have spent two day troubleshooting the lights and repaired three breaks in the lines. To no avail. I have ohm'd everything out, ran voltage checks off the truck and nothing. So finally i decided to run new wiring. I have spent two days running all new wiring and new lights. Once again nothing. No lights. Continuity is there. Voltage is coming out of the truck, so its going into the plug. So my thinking was bad ground so i even ran a direct ground wire to one of the lights, nothing. Any ideas? I AM STUCK :lost: :help: :censored:
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby pickerandsinger » Mon Aug 12, 2013 4:00 pm

Did you check the voltage at the light fixture...I would start there and work back to the plug. and check the load side of the plug for voltage..The connection has got to broke somewhere....Or grounded out....Make sure you have a good ground as I guess you have....Sometimes the simplest thing ....Bulbs ....Whatever can screw up the works....Sometimes it don't take much....Those are my thoughts anyways... :D
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby RUSSALL » Mon Aug 12, 2013 5:02 pm

If you have loaned your trailer to anyone, maybe they switched the wires around. Make sure the truck
and trailer plugs match. Goog luck.


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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby Mr E » Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:50 pm

John,
i had the same exact problem. However, mine is a 98 Nissan and requires a special computerized adapter, due to brake light and turn signal being 2 separate wires. Box puts them back together.

Ran all new wires. Problem ended up being the "box". Guy at parts house replaced it 3 times to no avail. I finally ordered a different brand off the 'Net and bingo. Lights. :lol:
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby Rick Spivey » Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:59 pm

Some new vehicles require very special boxes. My 2013 Ram didn't have the factory controller, and the dealership claimed they couldn't add it. First aftermarket from Draw-Tite didn't work at all; a very good trailer guy was scratching his head, found out from Ram that they use the wires for more than one signal, so it was seeing current all the time. A better, more expensive controller ending up being the fix. The lesson I learned is that, if at all possible, get the factory brake controller. Life, and wiring, is not so simple anymore!
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby John(videodoc) » Tue Aug 13, 2013 6:51 am

I had lights before, off my ram truck. they just stopped working. I tried hooking up to both my rams and it doesnt work on either the 07 or the 99.
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby t jackson » Tue Aug 13, 2013 7:06 am

somewhere a dead short?
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby Rudi » Tue Aug 13, 2013 7:29 am

John:

That happens to me just about every couple of years. Seems to be some sort of tradition or whatever with my trailers. Personally I think the problem is usually either in the connector to the trailer or the connector at the vehicle. Those are the two trouble spots for corrosion - that is corrosion inside the connectors. I have had to change out the wiring completely in my trailer 2 years ago and it looks like I am going to have to do it again. :big give up:

Did you google it? I did -trailer light not working on 07 and 09 Dodge Rams

Found this in one of the threads:
Trailer running lights not working...WTH
So I got tired of trying to figure out what was going on with that damn relay, so I did the smart thing- bought a $10 trailer wiring kit with the LED indicators on the 4-pin flat connector. ( I only tow utility trailers, so I'll only ever use the 4 pin connector) I spliced the wires into the existing trailer wires before the relay and according to the LED's on the new 4 way flat, everything is working as it should. Why didn't I do this sooner....
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Tue Aug 13, 2013 9:06 am

John(videodoc) wrote:I had lights before, off my ram truck. they just stopped working. I tried hooking up to both my rams and it doesnt work on either the 07 or the 99.
Check the fuses on your trucks. both of them will have separate fuses for the trailer lights that will blow without affecting the truck lights (usually in the fuse box under the hood). If the fuses are blown, disconnect the wiring right at the sockets and replace the fuse. You may have a bad socket, or a strand of wire shorted inside the plug of the trailer.
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby JackF » Tue Aug 13, 2013 6:45 pm

If your trucks lights are working without a trailer and trailer has good connections, voltage and a good ground... get this. http://www.drawtite.com/modulite1.html Reason....the body module monitors electrical current draw and will shut down the circut to save the body module. You may have voltage to the trailer lamps but not enough AMPS. Be very careful and don't destroy the body module. A good connection (no voltage connected) ohm's is .3 of a ohm.(Max)
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby pickerandsinger » Wed Aug 14, 2013 5:41 am

Ohms don't necessarily mean voltage....By that I mean a single frayed strand or connection will show as completing the circuit....An open neutral will cause an assortment of problems....You say you don't have lights, but do you have any voltage at all at the socket...And yes the new vehicles are a pain with their adapters etc...If you have a 4 pin check there also...Certain add-ons ( light bars etc) have to be ordered for a specific vehicle because of the wiring of the tail and directional..One will cancel the other out...It can be frustrating...Dave
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby JackF » Wed Aug 14, 2013 7:11 am

pickerandsinger stated: Ohms don't necessarily mean voltage....By that I mean a single frayed strand or connection will show as completing the circuit

Correct, on a circuit like the trailer wiring I would isolate the trailer from the truck and do a voltage drop test, only to save the trucks body module if there is a problem with the trailers wiring.
Ohms check is a good way to check for bad connections…broken wires mostly in low voltage circuits. In higher voltage circuits I’ve found it better to pressure check them. Frayed strands/bad connections under high AMP draws will cause higher resistance in the circuit sometimes causing the body module to “time out” to protect itself,,,but only on a high AMP draw
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby SONNY » Wed Aug 14, 2013 12:50 pm

I fought my LL 18' for a day and found that it would work only on 1 truck, not the other,--also worked on everyone elses trucks,---just not my 97 F-350!
PROBLEM!!!!---it was in the grounding!--it showed good but I ended up having to put on bigger wire and put it under 1 of the big winch mount bolts!---that was 2 years ago and has worked ever since!---dont add up, BUT lighting is a royal pain!
P. S. DONT use 4 wire flat connector in IL.
.-- ILL. DOT will ticket you!---reason?--you dont have brakes hooked up with 4 wire flat plug!---I changed all of mine to 7 wire round with flat terminals inside! thanks; sonny
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Re: 18ft trailer ***FIXED*****

Postby John(videodoc) » Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:07 am

Well, 3rd day of trouble shooting. After reading all the posts, THANKS, by the way. I went straigth to the plug and measured out to the first junction, nothing. I had wired the new studd short so i had to splice in the old plug to hook up to the truck. SHould have known that was trouble. Turns out the the flat four connector was bad internally, even though there was "continuity there" it still was not allowing enough voltage to pass. So off to the parts store and get a new flat four connector. And wala, it worked. THANKS once again for everyones help. :{_}: :{_}: :{_}:
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Re: 18ft trailer

Postby danovercash » Sat Aug 17, 2013 1:55 pm

Simular problem on Tecumseh solid state ignition. Wire from alternator showed continuity, but was not carrying enough current to make solid state give blue spark. Changed wire from stator to solid state and instant happiness! Btw anyone need a HH100 engine with valve train problems?
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