Thu Jan 23, 2014 9:23 pm
My brother got this old welder and brought it to me to get running. He came over today to see what he had and the starter seemed to not have enough strength to turn over the engine. I took the starter off and was able to get the starter to spin using the battery with the help of the battery charger booster. The motor is a continental 4 cylinder. With a mag. Brother said it was running last summer but find it hard to believe.
Wondering what I need to look for. It is a 12 volt system and I have a car battery hooked to it. Maybe I need to get a commercial battery I don't know? Is the motor easy to work on as compression seems low also. May look into lapping valves and rings if need be.
Help would be great.
Thu Jan 23, 2014 10:28 pm
Remove spark plugs, T spoon oil on top of each cylinder. See if engine cranks over by hand (fan blade) and then with the starter.
Any car battery in good condition and fully charged should crank over the engine, providing engine is not locked up.
First look at the battery condition, cable terminals, then starter condition.
Fri Jan 24, 2014 10:01 am
JASON!!! is it an I-Y69 engine or the F- series--- F-140- 4-cyl. F-226 - 6 cyl./etc?---all of these are flathead type and very good engines (when they run, LOL!) They are simple made internally and not a bit hard to work on! Over the years we had lots of them on various applications and we re-built some of them also!
If you want help (or moral support ),I will be glad to assist you in person! I can look and listen to what you have and offer some helpful suggestions if nothing else!
I think I have a chart that has the specs of most of them too! thanks; sonny
Fri Jan 24, 2014 11:53 am
Motor is a 4 cylinder flat head engine, as for model, I not sure. Continental brand is all I know.
The motor turns with a hand crank but is tough, put some oil down the plugs, made it easier a bit.
The starter acts as if the engine is too much load for it. Cranks very slow or just grunts? Once I can get the thing to crank better it should fire as the mag is hot, and I know cause I got a good bite from it.
The machine is in good shape and I will try to get pics up shortly. Brother and I are trying to put together a mobile repair trailer and this is the first item to get it going.
Fri Jan 24, 2014 12:15 pm
I am not familiar with this engine or it's lubrication system. If engine has been sitting for a long time, bearings may be dry.
Find a location where you can prime, fill, the lubrication system without starting the engine. Fill the oil galleries, rotate engine, fill oil galleries again.
More engine oil on top of each piston.
Sun Jan 26, 2014 6:59 pm
JASON!!!---Hey I found and got copy of 91 page manual for the 163 engine!---Its on one of my thumb drives as well as on this hard drive,--shows the cutaway pic. of the oil system!--suction tube is VERY low to bottom of pan and pump is submerged too! pump drives off camshaft right below the knockout plug in the center of the head! thanks; sonny
Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:27 pm
school for the next few days here we plan to get this welder working. We had to take off the oil pan to check the no oil pressure issue, dropped the oil pump and found our problem, a broken drive gear at the cam end. The gear was in three pieces. That explains the metal parts in the pan
So my brother decided we better pull the head check valves and cylinder walls, I told him I think we be fine and didn't need to but he started on it while I took a short break and broke a head bolt off. So now we had to take em all out and managed to break 2 more
Tomorrow s task will be how the heck we get those out.
Anyway my local CASE IH dealer can found about anything for me and so they found a new gear in Iowa somewhere and we are to have it tomorrow afternoon. Anyway, it was a productive day.
Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:03 pm
I kinda wondered about the pump drive gear!---Glad you found a new one to put back on! ---might check the pin that holds it on for wear in the shaft hole.
Most usually the broken head bolts have to be drilled out.---easy-outs are NOT usually strong enough to do the job, but after drilling sometimes heat will help get them moving with the aid of some squirt-um in the hole!---Got any left handed drill bits???
might need to use Heli-Coils to put new bolts back in, or drill to next size bolt (IF there is room for bigger bolt)----I HATE broken head bolts on any engine!
Sometimes you can drill close to the correct dia. then use a tap to clean the threads the rest of the way.---long slow process, but can be done!
If anyone else has some ideas, PLEASE post them---Jason is a GREAT guy to work with! LOL!!
Glad I found this book on the engine,--it has all specs in it! thanks; sonny
Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:08 pm
If you can, try welding a not on the broken bolt. Heat will loosen it. If not grind level and use the head to mark the center with a drill that will barely go through hole, then remove head and drill out then Helicoil if need to. Most of those bolts go through into the water jacket, like a cub.
Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:13 pm
We got all our head bolts out by welding nuts onto the studs and backing them out. It took about 3 try's for each but we finally got them out. We the chaced all threads with a tap to clean them up and good thing we did as they needed it. We got our new oil pump gear and it didn't fit so I took it to a friend with a machine shop and fit it for us and put us back in business. The new gear would not slide on and it ended up just being a burr from when the pin hole was drilled. My friend cleared it up and then it slid right on. Now waiting for a head gasket and carb kit and then we will be able to strike an arc and weld some serious metal. Awesome!!
Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:45 am
Your getting luckier all the time ---- glad you got things rolling toward RE-CLAIMING garage space! LOL!---NOW for the arcs-n-sparks! LOL!---you guys have a nice machine there and should be able to do some serious work with it! thanks; sonny
Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:59 pm
Things were going good with this project till today. We got it all back together completely and got it to run and weld great then?????? We hooked up a new kill switch and when we went to kill it nothing happened. The kill switch has 3 wires running to it, 1 from the ammeter gauge and the other from the voltage regulator and then the 3rd to the Magneto. Well when the switch turned on, the ammeter gauge showed charging but the engine still didn't stall. So my brother thought 2 wires were mixed up and switched them. After that we have not been able to get the engine to start and also have no spark. So what did we do? Did we accidently hook the battery to the mag through the switch and fry the mag? I hope someone can help?
Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:56 pm
Disconnect the kill switch wire from the side of the magneto. Try to start the engine, check for spark. Hopefully the engine runs.
Thu Feb 06, 2014 8:05 am
I'm not familiar with your mag, but my guess is that you have indeed applied battery power to the mag. When bat power is applied to an IH mag, it destroys the tension spring on the points, maybe you'll be that lucky.
Thu Feb 06, 2014 8:13 am
I was hoping I would be be able to just replace points. We tried a lot of different things yesterday to see it we could get it to fire up. We had no spark at all. The tester was dead.
I think I will order up some new points and rebuild the mag while I'm at it.
Other problem is we have water coming up from a head bolt. The bolt goes through to a water jacket. We have tried silicone around the threads and it still keeps coming up. Anything I am missing here?
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