Wed Jun 22, 2005 10:08 am
Will something as simple as silicone plumbing sealer used on the inside of the tank fix it?
Start simple. $3.00 fix...if it works.
Wed Jun 22, 2005 10:12 am
I have tried all the Crazy Glue stuff. No good.
This is as much as a end tank installed.
Wed Jun 22, 2005 7:12 pm
pgmrdan wrote:Will something as simple as silicone plumbing sealer used on the inside of the tank fix it?
The catch is putting a patch on the inside requires all the work of putting a new tank on. It is real easy to get at the outside of the tank, thus the temptation to try a patch on the outside. But if I have to tear it completely apart, it gets a new tank.
Thu Jun 23, 2005 7:19 am
Jim Becker wrote:PWL,
Here is what it looks like, probably the material you are thinking of. I couldn't find a pressure label, suppose it is around 15#.
I also thought about just dumping some stop-leak in.
Do your self a favor & just replace the whole radiator here in upstate NY we have found that you can by a good after market rad. for the price of repairing the old one & they come with a warranty.(local auto parts)
Also if the pic. is not distorting the tank then I would check for a blown head gasket as that tank looks like it has expanded from high pressure
The pressure label is on the rad. cap you mite have it tested also to see what it is really releasing at.
(looks round in pic.)
Sat Jul 02, 2005 5:36 am
Hey Jim...I don't know why J.B. Quick Weld wouldn't work
? I use that stuff on nearly everything
! If you make very sure that you clean the crack off (topside & underneath) with an alcohol Q-Tip...you should be able to seal it in a jiffy with J.B. Quick Weld
...What Have You Got To Loose By Tryin' It?
Sat Jul 02, 2005 6:47 am
JB Weld and JB Quick Weld are both good items that I have used a lot, including repairing an air conditioner line on a car, but they have limited use on plastics, especially the type used in radiator tanks and gas tanks where flexing occurs. Never tried it on a radiator tank, but have on plastic gastanks, resulted in an aw s**t.
Sat Jul 02, 2005 8:37 am
I have had the same luck as John trying JB on plastic,(Aw`sheet). Tried welding the plastic lid mount on my airstream oven and it lasted about 2-days.
Sun Jul 03, 2005 12:40 pm
I have used JB weld to patch these tanks before. It is just that a patch. The material the tanks are made of is real tough to repair.
Also you have to take into the consideration the difference in thermal expansion caracteristics of the dissimilar materials.
I am in agreement with Dale bite the bullet on the new tank. It will pay off in the long run if you are looking for a reliable fix.
Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:42 pm
Time for an update on the leaky radiator. Here is the recap and assorted updates.
The radiator end tank had a crack which I think was left-over collision damage from some time back. A local, good radiator shop checked and found that end tanks are not available separately for that car. A new aftermarket radiator was about $800. I tried a slodering iron a bit on the crack and it pertty well beared out PWL's assessment. I ended up applying a small bead of JB Weld over the crack, at thich point another much smaller crack became evident. So it got JB Welded too. That proved to be good for 6-8 months, as it recently started leaking again. It looked like a little coolant was coming up through the JB Weld. I never cleaned it of to look closely, but I suspect the bead of JB may have cracked directly over the original one.
So I gave the whole car some serious thought. It just turned 130,000 miles. It is still on it's original timing belt (interference engine!!). Changing a timing belt would also call for a new serpentine belt. I expect the "while you are in theres" would include a water pump and the belt tensioning idlers (all originals). Throw in an immediate need for 2 tires at about $250 and several other problems that are between niuisanse level and time bombs. Low book is about $850, high book maybe $2,500. I was begining to see a negative net value.
So we fixed the radiator this way:
We had a pretty good deal all worked out on this one without a trade. Then I hit them with a last-minute "what will you give?" They offered $2,000 for the Catera so they got to have it.
Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:35 pm
Thu Apr 06, 2006 5:32 am
Well done Jim!
Let's all observe a moment of silence in respect to the modern engineers who, in their ultimate wisdom, have managed to find a material that, once cracked, can't be repaired - just like the pile of castings I have next to the barn from my 50-year-old farm tractors that are cracked and can't be repaired!
Thu Apr 06, 2006 7:55 am
Ya done good Jim, even if it does have a bowtie on the front of it.
Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:01 am
Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:35 am
It's OK. I know how you guys with 4 wheel drive trucks are, you have to pull something every so often so you can feel good about all that expensive hardware. Just providing a service.
I did think about clamping the brakes on as soon as we turned up the hill, then suggesting we use a Cub in place of your truck after you spun to a stop. Now I wish I had.
You can still have the mower rod.
Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:53 am
Lots of luck on the new van. They justr won't give you a break will they.
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