New Barn

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New Barn

Postby Little Indy » Sun Jul 02, 2006 4:41 pm

Guys (includes the women who own cubs)!

I am building a small barn with a gambrel roof (sometimes called a Dutch Barn Roof). Two stories, each floor 16' by 20'. Gets me by the local code. 1st floor will have 8' ceilings. The 2nd less but not sure just how high the head rome will be. I have thought about--> Plywood siding? T11? Metal siding over OSB?. Galvanized? I will be heating it with a wood stove in the winter. Eventually I might insulate it. This is where I will be rebuilding Big Red. Then Little Indy and finally Little Red my 140

Question. If you were doing the same, what siding would you use?
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Postby Don McCombs » Sun Jul 02, 2006 4:56 pm

Hardie Plank. It will last longer than you do :!: I used it on my garage and love it.

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/prodhome/hardiplank.php

http://www.amazingsiding.com/PPF/Parameters/27_167_/amazing_siding.asp

I also suggest that you consider a ceiling height higher than 8 feet. If you're using conventional garage doors, you will be limited to a 7 foot tall door. Not good for tractors with vertical exhaust.
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:57 pm

What ever siding you choose, I would suggest insulating it when you build it, not later. It will make working in it more comfortable any tiem, and will cut down on the metal (cubs, tools, etc. sweatign as the weather changes.
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Postby Rudi » Sun Jul 02, 2006 10:30 pm

Richard:

Quick answer is whatever siding I don't have to paint/stain/protect ever again....

I finally listened to Em.. it wasn't what I wanted.. as I never liked vinyl siding.. but.. and this is a big but.. vinyl has improved 1,000% over the last 35 years or so.. and when combined with other finishes, it does provide a good, relatively maintenance free cladding.

I used 2x6's which were then wrapped in brown aluminum to essentially block in the building, delinieate floors, meld with the facia and soffit finish which is brown aluminum and of course the capping where needed on fixture pads such as light, doorbell, hose bib and other pads. I then finished with a cream vinyl siding. Looks really nice.. easy on the pocket book in relation to other finishes.

I intend to finish my shop and pole barn extension to my shop in the same fashion.. it will match the house.

It worked out well. You can see pics of the house on the server in the My Cubs section of the Gallery.. it does look pretty good and goes well with the decking as well.

Other points.. even if you are heating with a wood stove.. INSULATE, INSULATE, INSULATE.. keeps you warm in the winter and cool in the summer... trust me on this one.. you do not want to NOT INSULATE.. even if you just put in a single layer of R-12 for this year.. you can add another layer of R -12 batts or even R-20 or greater as needed.

Also, make sure that you use a building wrap such as Tyvek.. you WILL be glad you did..

Don't use OSB for a finish ok.. and no you may NOT ask why I said that :oops: :oops: :oops: :cry:
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Postby brian kov » Sun Jul 09, 2006 1:30 pm

i whole heartedly agree on the hadi plank , it is fire proof it holds paint very well it will last 100 yrs plus it is economical and pre primed . i am a builde rand use it quite often , it is also available in a stucco board style for english tudor .use a product called mirra tech for your corners and windo / door trim you wont regret it , cost a bout 90 per square ,you can install it with an air nailer and 2 3/8 ring shank over 1 in. foam or ply wood including osb but you should deffinately spend a couple xtra bucks fopr the tyvek or equal .. :roll:
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Postby WKPoor » Mon Jul 10, 2006 9:32 pm

I'm sure hardy plank is great as will be the price.

Economically 2" foam panel covered by OSB and then barn steel will provide all the insulation and protection you may require at a reasonable cost.
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Postby Little Indy » Wed Jul 12, 2006 6:44 pm

Guys!
I want to thank you all for your help. :) One of my favoriate sayings --> Concerning taste there can be no despute. I still not completely made up my mind but am leaning to steel clading for the moment. I will consult other half as to galvanized vs color.
The clading will go over 2 by 6 studs (more insulation) covered with OSB.
I thought I might give you the benefit of some square foot pricing for my area.
Hardi plank .87 per foot squared (pf2)
Vinyl .65 pf2
Smart Side .62 pf2 (much like Hardi plank but vertical and 4by8 sheets
Pine Plywood .56 pf2 (looks like vertical palnking and 4by8 sheets)
Steel Clading .55 pf2 for color
Steel Clading .46 pf2 for galvanized

Again thanks for being a great bunch. Latin for above saying available
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Postby Little Indy » Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:47 pm

Guys,

I now have built the walls (2by6 studs on 24 oc) and the ceiling joists (2by8 on 24 oc) and have placed the rafters using a product by 2by4basics for bracing. I used 2by4's but they are braced to the ceiling joists using 2by4's and 1by4's to enclose the 2by4's . The plan was approved by the city building and safety. They say I have to have purlins on 24 oc for the roof. OK by me.

Question: What to use on the roof. I can have a metal roof. Or a fiberglas roof. But I am thinking about a roof by Ondura (probably white). In my neck of the woods the cost is about the same. 54->57 cents per ft squared (pfs). I decided to shingle the sides. The cost 27 cents pfs.

By the way thanks for all previous help.

Richard.
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Postby Eugene » Sat Sep 02, 2006 9:08 am

My 2 cents.

Metal roofs. My house is 109 years old. Just replaced it's second roof this summer with steel. Previous roof was corrigated steel and 70 or 80 years old. I think steel is the way to go.

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Postby Rudi » Sat Sep 02, 2006 10:21 am

Richard:

I am in agreement with Eugene on this one. I just got a quick quote from a recycler (Maritime Demolition), who re-sell used material from large construction jobs or from large commercial buildings that are being torn down.

Fairly new steel roof panels -- 10 foot by 3 foot, $10.00, 20 foot $20.00 and 30 foot - $30.00 Cdn. These panels still have their original coatings and are undamaged. Only downside is choice in colours is kind of limited, and availablity is an issue.. hopefully they will have the panels in town when I need them.... :? :shock: :roll: :!:

So to do my pole barn roof.. 30 foot run and the roof will be 33 feet wide with eaves.. means 11 panels -- or $330.00. Plust the amount of money I will save not having to use plywood or other sheeting to enclose the roof, means I can probably do my whole roof including the other side which is a 20 foot run, so another $220.00 for $550.00


So, 1650 sq ft or 16.5 squares will cost me $33.40/square or 100 square feet which is $0.334/square foot. Pretty reasonable.

If I was to do it with new steel will probably cost me triple that. If I was do roof it the same way as it was when originally built that would end up costing me 52 sheets of 1/2" plywood at approximately $35.00/sheet ($1820.--) bare minimum price, plus 2 rolls of tar paper at approx $15.00 ($30.00) , 1 roll of ice dam at approx $150.00 and then 17 squares of shingles or 51 bundles at $14.00/bundle ($714.00) for a grand total of $2,714.00 plus 14%HST of $379.96 or $3,039.39 which breaks down to $1.84/sqft or about 6 times the price of reecycled steel panels :!: :roll: :shock: :(

I am going the recycled steel route and do the whole darn roof and forget about it :!: :idea: :!:
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Postby Eugene » Sat Sep 02, 2006 12:08 pm

Kinda to add to Rudi's comments. I purchased the steel to reroof a 36 x 60 shop for $400.00. When I start reroofing I will need to purchase screws and some lumber. I will probably have about $500.00 in materials when finished.

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Postby Mike's 49 Cub » Mon Sep 04, 2006 10:37 am

Little Indy. I built a barn 20 by 36 it has a 10 foot ceiling on the first floor which is a must. Gable roof, loft is 6'10" at the bottom of the collar ties. The ceiling joists for the first floor or floor joists for the second floor are 2x12 x 20 on 16inch centers. I wish I had put them on 12 inch centers now as I keep finding things to put up there. The walls are insulated 2x6 with 3/4 CDX plywood on the outside covered by Tyvek then over that I have 1x8 T&G Cedar boards that I stained white with two coats on all sides before putting up, that was 280 boards..x two! I thought about T111 but I would have had a seam at 8 foot and I didn't want that. More money but I'm happy with it. I built a pole barn on some previous property and swore I'd never have another one. I really wanted something that was maintaince free but didn't like the options, I just didn't want vinyl siding and couldn't afford brick. One thing with stain is you don't have to scrape it when you recoat, just roll it on. I have a play house I built for the kids thirteen years ago and just restained it this summer. NO SCRAPING. I used asphalt shingles. Good luck.
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Postby cowboy » Tue Sep 05, 2006 9:30 am

Hi Indy

This is some desighn deminisons from a class book on farm buildings from 1973. It states there is no hard fast rules for building. As you may change it for specific needs or to conserve or make the best use of lumber needed. So you can change the lower or upper members to get the hight or size you want. It list the standard deminisons for building size. It only shows down to 18' wide but you can size it down or give it more over hang and use that size. We plan on using a 18' wide roof 8' lower and changing the upper to 5' so we can take a 10' sheet of roof tin and cut it in half and use all of it. I am also including a picture of my friend Gerold's barn. It is a 36' wide.

Look at it it is instering reading

Image


Image


Image
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Postby jakeesspoo » Tue Sep 05, 2006 6:17 pm

Fiberglass shingles are junk and should be outlawed. Ive never had them and never will :!:
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Postby Little Indy » Wed Sep 20, 2006 7:50 am

Guys (I include any gal who owns or uses or repairs CUBs)

Thanks Thanks Thanks

The framing of the barn is done. The siding is almost done. I and my two of my sons are working hard (one has autism but he loves helping, his nick name is BH or BIG HELP). It has reinforced concrete floor (two rows of rebar under the walls because lots of foundations in Nebraska are cracking and wire with 6 inch squares in the center) and 6" studs (more room for insulation) and 8" joists (more insulation), the two end walls are non load bearing so that I can easily expand, brown asphalt shingles on the side (they were on sale at 50% off) , white Ondura roof. It has a "hay loft" so that I can store stuff in it. It will be heated with a wood stove. I framed the door in a manner so that if I ever wish I can put in an air conditioner above it. I plan to add two sheds on each side pole barn construction so that I can keep implements out of the weather. They will be floor with gravel. I promise pictures when done.

The suggestions I got here have been most helpful.

This project has been very theraputic for my son BH. Before he found it hard to engage in a spontaneous conversation. Still does unless it is about the barn. Every time he talks he asks about or brings up the barn. I might construct another one just as therapy for him. He has made suggestions as how we should go about working on the barn. They have been very good suggestions. He got me to line up the East Wall exactly North South. He told me the local time when the sun would be exactly South and that we could use two pieces of rebar to survey the wall. (on this kind of stuff he is always right). Building the barn has been cheaper than any prescribed therapy.

I thank everyone again

Richard
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