shop

I have a 30x40 and it filled up fast. After only 5 years in it I am now getting prices to add on another 12ft. leento on the whole back side. You can never build it too big. A guy has to have STUFF and the more room you have the more STUFF you will drag home

I have the same concerns, only I need a place to work on my cubs. My cabinet shop is just not suitable for both mechanical and wood working projects at the same time. Also, it would be nice to have a place to store all the paraphenalia that goes along with tractors or even lawn mowers etc..... an of course Cub Implements :!:

I have been trying to get a 16x32 pole barn extension built to my shop for a while now.. but events have combined to slow the project down. Hopefully it will be up in time for winter this year.. everything is ready, except for the poles being in the ground..... :roll: :?

I hear you, I first built a 40x60 pole barn and it is full then I built a 30x50 shop now it is full and I have no place to work without moving things around, What is a guy to do?

jim turner":151btx78 said:

I hear you, I first built a 40x60 pole barn and it is full then I built a 30x50 shop now it is full and I have no place to work without moving things around, What is a guy to do?

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You are so close, but you missed the size by a bit. My pole barn is 40 x 72 and the shop is 40 x 54. Mine is ALMOST big enough.

You guys sure know how to depress somebody! I'm in the process of trying to finish up a 20 x 40 shop, sure is a purty thing! After reading this thread, I find myself wondering if I need to build up reasons (excuses) the convince the significant other that I might need more room later. Hmmmm, a barn in the making in a few years? :roll:

I just put an extra lean on my small barn for a Cub. I used cedar planks from an old barn that fell in for the entire project. so just a bundle of shingles is all I was out! I love reusing stuff. I can fit one Cub in and a set of cultivators.

Hey Clem Can we move the cub to one side and let me camp out there for a few months :?: Looks like I will be working at the brent run landfill agin in a month or so. I should be in Oscota MI in a week and when I am done I am heading that way.

When I get to building a real shop I do not think I will put floor drains in. They always fill up with mud and that one one of a kind bolt you Need ends up fallind down in it. One of my friends has his angled down and out the front door. He will start at the back of the shop and hose everything down and out the door.

And rather than having the sliding doors on the outside of the building he has them on the inside so he does not have to worry about shoveling the snow away from the door track in the winter. He built shelves all the way to the ceiling infront of it so the doors slide between the shelves and the wall.


Billy

Cowboy. That is good news being back to work and all. That means more $bucks$ for cubs. When you get settled in on your new job stop on over.

By the way everyone, is pea rock a good thing to put down for ground support?

Hi Clem

You want a sharp stone crushed that will bind and pack together. For a driveway or shed floor I use 12a which is a crushed limestone with fines in it that will pack down and stay in place. Pea stone is for drainage.

Billy

I ment to post a replie to another thread. I just noticed I started another new one again. I need to start slowing down and watching what I am dooing.

pea gravel like walking in sand get road pack in a few years it'll be like concrete

Joey":2omnbiv4 said:

You guys sure know how to depress somebody! I'm in the process of trying to finish up a 20 x 40 shop, sure is a purty thing! After reading this thread, I find myself wondering if I need to build up reasons (excuses) the convince the significant other that I might need more room later. Hmmmm, a barn in the making in a few years? :roll:

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Consider making one end wall non-load bearing so that you can knock the wall later. I am doing this on my new barn so that if I want to add 8-16 feet I will be able to do so without worring about that portion falling. I added three 2by8's as beams on the end.

Rudi":142zr9cu said:

I have the same concerns, only I need a place to work on my cubs. My cabinet shop is just not suitable for both mechanical and wood working projects at the same time. Also, it would be nice to have a place to store all the paraphenalia that goes along with tractors or even lawn mowers etc..... an of course Cub Implements :!:

I have been trying to get a 16x32 pole barn extension built to my shop for a while now.. but events have combined to slow the project down. Hopefully it will be up in time for winter this year.. everything is ready, except for the poles being in the ground..... :roll: :?

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When I bought this property (1976) the previous owner did not set the treated wood poles of my horse barn (this is where I am keeping my tractors at present) in concrete. I sure wish he had. A lot easier to do it when the barn was built than now.

When I bought this property (1976) the previous owner did not set the treated wood poles of my horse barn (this is where I am keeping my tractors at present) in concrete. I sure wish he had. A lot easier to do it when the barn was built than now.

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The poles will last longer if they're backfilled with clean washed stone so they can drain. Setting them in concrete will shorten their life.

We used to put fence poles in with the big end down to keep them down. I decided to put a little extra traction on my 4x4's



This is what my little 12x16 foot shed looked like yesteday at 2:00 pm



This is what it looked like at 7:30 yesterday. Boy digging post holes in hard yellow clay by hand is a pain :!: The only spud bar I have weighs 60 pounds. Ouch




Billy

George Willer":ie8f3xiy said:

When I bought this property (1976) the previous owner did not set the treated wood poles of my horse barn (this is where I am keeping my tractors at present) in concrete. I sure wish he had. A lot easier to do it when the barn was built than now.

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The poles will last longer if they're backfilled with clean washed stone so they can drain. Setting them in concrete will shorten their life.

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Richard:

George is correct on that one. Clean pea gravel, 1/4 to 3/4 crushed stone with no fines.. etc., is excellent, and when tamped provide a good drained/dry spot for your posts.

I am using telephone poles.. these have been treated. A couple are old, but still in beautiful shape. Ray is going to drill 5 feet down and plant em.. ifn it is good enough for Aliant and NB Power, good enough for me. The creosote treated telephone poles are all Douglas Fir or Western Cedar I think.. and they will far outlast me.. and probably my kids as well..

So.. at 40 bucks a pop.. I would say $200.00Cdn is a good deal for most of the structure for my shop. They are all 32 feet long or better, so plant 5 cut em off at around 13 or 14 feet.. plant the off cuts.. and they should be fine as well.. The off cuts we may brush with mastic.. but haven't made up my mind yet.

Also, floating slabs.. will crack, I don't care how much rebar is in em.. really needs a frost wall. Frost walls are pretty pricey. Probably cost me in excess of $2,000.00 to fix the old shop and put new frost walls in on the extension. Then there is the pad itself.. nope.. not going down that road.. Can't afford it, certainly not on my VA pension..

The poles will last longer if they're backfilled with clean washed stone so they can drain. Setting them in concrete will shorten their life.

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Thanks George for the information. The previous owner set the poles in dirt. I was planning to shoreup that horse barn and then dig around the poles and pour in concrete. Now I am considering filling putting a little concrete below the pole and placeing some washed stone between pole ond concrete and then fillingin with wshed stone and capping with concrete with slope away from pole. Probably overkill.