Question about restoring implements

[a-dougk1]

I'm in the process of restoring an old, rusted 54A blade. I've got most of the parts repainted, but was wondering what to do about the badly rusted nuts, washers, and bolts.

I could run them through the electrolosis bucket I made, then paint them either silver or red. Or I could buy all new nuts, washers, and bolts.

What would you do?

Also, does anyone make the label for this implement? It has the implement name spray painted in yellow on one side, then has a stick-on IH label on the other. I was wondering if anyone made the label.

Doug

[Brandon Webb]

I'd use new grade 8 bolts. If the originals are weakened due to rust, you might break one later on after you paint it up and are using it. Better to replace them now, than to break one later, when you need the implement. Brandon.

[Cecil]

If bolts, nut and washers still look good I clean them on a wire wheel. Its just faster than the tank. Everyone knows how much I love my tank. Right Rudi?

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I think Ralph has a tumbler like you use for polishing rocks he uses on bolts. a little slow, but works while you are away.



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=46376

[farmallcub49]

The rock tumbler is a great idea. If you have a blasting cabinet handy, put them in a wire sieve(sp?) and do them that way. BE VERY CAREFULL using a wire wheel; many of us know why !

['Country' Elliott]

I place all my rusty bolts, nuts & washers in a coffee can with KROIL and let them soak for a few days.

I take them out and, using my VICE GRIP for a secure grip, buff them up on my wire wheel (ALWAYS wearing SAFETY GOGGLES and leather gloves and LONG SLEEVED SHIRT (in case any of the small wire brush pieces come off...and they DO!!!).

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

If I am going to be doing a lot of wire brushing, I use a leather welding apron similar to this canvas one that harbor freight sells. Sure beets having my shirt and belly looking like a porcupine. Wire wheels get worse aobut sheddign wires as they get old, though the twisted ones do last better.

[brian kov]

ya i cought a wire right in the forehead lastnight *%^# chinese wire wheel , i would never have used it but i got it for free and my other one was worn down to nothing i usually use a bench grinder on nuts and bolts but you better hold on tight or there gonna be flyin . like Country said use vice grips , not the chinese one either , they may look alike but there not .

[BIGHOSS]

Yeah, I have a original front wheel center dot bolt somewhere in my shop that was jerked from me while wire brushing it. When I get time, I plan to do a better search for it. A wire wheel can shake you out of a daydream real quick. Be careful out there!

[Boss Hog]

I put the bolt in a vice and use a grinder with a wire wheel attachment.
may look into a tumbler from harbor frieght
David

[a-dougk1]

So, when I reassemble the blade, what should I do with the nuts, washers, and screws. Just leave them unpainted?

So far, I've covered any exposed threads on the blade parts with tape so they are currently unpainted. Once I reassemble the blade, should I spritz all of the unpainted nuts, bolts, washers and threads with a coat of red paint? Or should I leave some or all of them unpainted?

Doug

[AlanPCUBS]

Doug I too am in the process of fixing up a 54A blade. I am replacing all the bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts,with grade 8 bolts. Then putting it back together the best I can, then painting parts as I go back together with it. Mine was also pretty rusty but am just using a wire brush to get the worst of the rust off before I shoot it with rattle can primer and paint. I am going to use this blade quite a bit and it will be taken on and off alot for I am going to be using a cultivator on it also. So i am not to worried about what the bolts look like because they are going to get scuffed up anyway!

best of luck! Alan

[Ralph]

I do use one of the rock tumblers
They work very well.
A little advice and a few words of caution
DO Not buy the double drum as it has the same little motor on the single and the double and it is undersize for the double drum unit.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=46376

you will also need to first thing take the top off to access the belt take it off and get a large O ring the correct size as the belt.
once you have the O ring put the original belt back on it .
the O ring you got for a spare will be appreciated at that unusual hour that you need it as you Will SHURELY need it. the factory belt is good for about 24 hours of tumble and it will break . The O ring however will last for a long time.
Do Not Overload it !!!!!!!!!
it says 3 pound but that is the sand water and cleaner and bolts.
I put what would amount to a set of front and rear lugs(20) and a set of square wheel bolta and nuts (8) in a load
Put some degreaser powder tide or mean green or your favorite cleaner put some sand and water and let it tumble for about 12 hours .
i have cleaned 100 plus pounds of bolts and hardware and it does a good job.

Thanks Ralph

[Buzzard Wing]

Nuts!

Because of budgetary constraints (Ok no job) I cleaned up all the ones on the red Cub, unless they were really bad, with a wire wheel on a bench grinder. I really would have liked a tumbler, but....

Really do hate doing it.... but the above cautions are all good!

I always prime stuff as soon as possible.

Also working on a blade, but mine is a McCormick I guess.

Here is the radiator bolts:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/Bu ... b81202.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/Bu ... aba839.jpg


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/Bu ... c7c189.jpg

By the way, that box has more paint than cardboard.... even lots of yeller paint.

[gitractorman]

I restored a 54A blade last winter, and I only cleaned up the blots enough to tighten them, and left them alone. A couple of my bolts on the cutting edge were worn down, so I replaced them. I assembled the cutting edge and shoes to the blade, then shot it as one piece. Similarly, I assembled the whole subframe, and shot it as one piece. Then I shot the hanger and lift brackets individually. Since I finished it the only bolts I have ever removed is the 2 rear bolts so I could mount it as a grader. Everything else stays together, all of the time, unless you brake something.

Also, I made tracings of the Cub 54A decal prior to sand blasting, then made a template and spray painted them back on. I figured that I would not find a decal, so that ended up being a good way to get back to original condition. The International and IH decals were readily available.

Here are a couple of pics.