Farmall B carb. question

G

GeneL74

Active member
Hello,

I have a Model B and it has an odd carb. on it... It's a Marvel Schebler TSX-869.

I can't find any info on the TSX-869... I'm gonna have the carb. rebuilt, and according to my manuals, the carb. should be a TSX-157. I can't even find rebuild kits for this TSX-869.

Anyone have any idea what I have here, or where I can find out?

Pics belows:

CARB5.jpg


CARB4.jpg


Thanks for your help!

Gene
 
Hmmm, that's odd... I've not had the tractor running yet, but the fellow I bought it from said it was running good when it was parked.

Thanks for the link. I was searching for Farmall parts... The possibility of it coming off another brand never crossed my mind. I hope it doesn't present a problem.

Thanks again!
 
No telling how it got switched.

Even if it seemed to be running properly, there is some reason they put the other model on it. May be worth looking into picking up the correct carb.
 
Well shucks..... Decisions, decisions.....

I figure it is going to cost around $25 for the rebuild kit, then probably $40-$50 to have the rebuild done (I'm guessing here) for a total of $65-$75.

I just done a quick search at Yesterdays Tractors, and it appears I can pick up a new Zenith for $140.49 or a rebuilt replacement for the original Marvel Schebler (TSX-157) for $147.39 (these prices are minus a core charge).

Perhaps I would be better off picking up the correct carburetor for my model B... If I decide to go this route, which one would you folks recommend, the Zenith or the Marvel Schebler replacement? I assume the Zenith model would okay without having to modify the linkage???

Thanks again for any imput!
 
If your carburetor fits the manifold and intake hose and the linkages work why would you want to change it? Regardless of where it came from it's designed to mix air and fuel in a similar proportion and should work well. I'd clean it up and use it.

Some Olivers, Cases, Allis-Chalmers, and Fords in my barn also use the Marvel carburetors.
 
The TSX series is a very simple carb. I would do the rebuild myself, then put the carb back on the tractor and see how well it works. If you have a bunch of extra parts from other carb kits, or access to flat round gaskets, you may not need to purchase a rebuild kit.

The 869 is not in any of my manuals. However, the main difference between numbers is the idle jet and main jet.

Gallon can of carb cleaner will last for years and is cheaper than having someoneelse dip the carb and then blow it out with compressed air.

Eugene
 
George Willer":2h69acdv said:
If your carburetor fits the manifold and intake hose and the linkages work why would you want to change it? Regardless of where it came from it's designed to mix air and fuel in a similar proportion and should work well. I'd clean it up and use it.

Some Olivers, Cases, Allis-Chalmers, and Fords in my barn also use the Marvel carburetors.
Click to expand...

Mr. Willer,

I appreciate your post!

I don't know a great deal about mechanic work, but between a good friend who fiddles with old tractors and researching online, I'm learning as I go....

The carb. bolts up just fine and the intake is good.... I was just wanting a little assurance that it would be okay before I spent $65-$75 on a rebuild. Now that I know it should work out okay, I am going to go ahead and order the rebuild kit for my carb.

The next thing I have to contend with is a dirty gastank... I've been reading here about cleaning them out and sealing them. Still a little undecided on whether I will attempt this myself, or just let a shop do it...

Thanks again!

Gene
 
Eugene":2cna738q said:
The TSX series is a very simple carb. I would do the rebuild myself, then put the carb back on the tractor and see how well it works. If you have a bunch of extra parts from other carb kits, or access to flat round gaskets, you may not need to purchase a rebuild kit.

The 869 is not in any of my manuals. However, the main difference between numbers is the idle jet and main jet.

Gallon can of carb cleaner will last for years and is cheaper than having someoneelse dip the carb and then blow it out with compressed air.

Eugene
Click to expand...

Eugene,

Thank you for your reply as well!

I've not done a lot of mechanic work, but I love doing things myself if I think I can get the job done without fouling up something important! lol

I'm going to order the kit and I'll decide when it arrives whether or not I should attempt it myself.

Thanks again!
 
gene,
rebuilding those types of carbs sre simple, ask your friend to be present when you take it apart. there shouldnt be that many parts inside of the carb. the first carb i ever did was a motorcycle carb < with my bud telling me what to do > and it still works after 15 years. i did the carb on my m this year and it was very easy to do. once you get the carb cleaned up first they are simple to fix. i have seen alot of those marvel carbs on fords, and i would keep the one you have to use.
good luck!
john
 
JBall8019":14vi9e4y said:
gene,
rebuilding those types of carbs sre simple, ask your friend to be present when you take it apart. there shouldnt be that many parts inside of the carb. the first carb i ever did was a motorcycle carb < with my bud telling me what to do > and it still works after 15 years. i did the carb on my m this year and it was very easy to do. once you get the carb cleaned up first they are simple to fix. i have seen alot of those marvel carbs on fords, and i would keep the one you have to use.
good luck!
john
Click to expand...

John,

Thank you for your response!

I love tinkering with things and think I will give the carb. rebuild a shot! If the kit comes with descent directions I think I'll be okay. I'll probably take a lot of digital pictures as I go so I will atleast have some sort of reference as to how it once looked. lol

I'll let you folks know how it turns out!

Thanks again for all the advice, suggestions, and help... I really appreciate it!!!

Gene
 
I would question how well that carb will work since it was designed for an engine with about twice the cubic inch displacement of your B.
 
GeneL74":1prasrza said:
I've not done a lot of mechanic work, but I love doing things myself if I think I can get the job done without fouling up something important! lol

I'm going to order the kit and I'll decide when it arrives whether or not I should attempt it myself.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Gene:

On the gas tank, take it to a good local reliable Rad/Tank Repair Shop and have them purge, clean, fix and seal the tank with Red Kote. It will last for years and is well worth the price. Should be around $75.00US or about what the rebuild kit will cost. And it will help keep the crud out of the carb, so a rebuild won't be necessary again in the near future..
 
LiL' Red":4iy4npr5 said:
I would question how well that carb will work since it was designed for an engine with about twice the cubic inch displacement of your B.
Click to expand...

Thank you for replying!

After learning that the carb. wasn't the original one that came on my B, I had/have no idea whether it will work or not... Thats the reason I asked for help on here and other members say it should be fine. Anyway, the rebuild kit is on the way, so I guess I will find out. I'm definitely gonna try it before buying a new/rebuilt carb.
 
Rudi":1yavjllz said:
GeneL74":1yavjllz said:
I've not done a lot of mechanic work, but I love doing things myself if I think I can get the job done without fouling up something important! lol

I'm going to order the kit and I'll decide when it arrives whether or not I should attempt it myself.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Gene:

On the gas tank, take it to a good local reliable Rad/Tank Repair Shop and have them purge, clean, fix and seal the tank with Red Kote. It will last for years and is well worth the price. Should be around $75.00US or about what the rebuild kit will cost. And it will help keep the crud out of the carb, so a rebuild won't be necessary again in the near future..
Click to expand...

Rudi,

I wasn't having much luck finding a shop that would mess with an old gas tank, but a friend recommended a local engine/machine shop... He also does a lot of work on radiators.

I gave him a call and he said he has done old tanks and would have to order the chemicals if I want mine done (never did tell me the name of the chemical).... Anyway, he said he would do the entire process for around $70 and it should be done by the middle of next week... His shop has a great reputation for doing good work, so I am going to take my tank to him in the morning.

I just have one more question... I picked up a Fram inline fuel filter that I intended to put in the hardline between the sediment bowl and the carb., but since I am going to have the tank sealed up, do I really need the inline filter now?

I don't care to put it in, but between the new sediment bowl and the sealed gas tank, I may not need it now?

Thanks again!

Gene
 
Gene - with a clean tank and a good sediment bowl the inline filter should not be necessary. I'd go without it.
 
Gene:

I just have one more question... I picked up a Fram inline fuel filter that I intended to put in the hardline between the sediment bowl and the carb., but since I am going to have the tank sealed up, do I really need the inline filter now?

I don't care to put it in, but between the new sediment bowl and the sealed gas tank, I may not need it now?
Click to expand...

I am with BD on this one, as them in-line filters are nothing but a major PIT derrierre ... clean tank, clean sediment bowl, clean gas.. STEEL GAS LINE.. clean Carb.. RUNS WELL... :!: :!: :!:
 
Don't take this the wrong way.

You could have cleaned and sealed the gas tank yourself for the cost of the RedKote. About $22.00. RedKote is available at some autoparts stores. It would take you a bit of time to do it yourself.

Directions are on the side of the container and there are several discussions on this board concerning the use of RedKote.

Eugene
 
Bigdog and Rudi,

Thanks for the info on the filter.... I figured that was the case.

Eugene,

I love doing things myself, and after your post I checked into the Redkote chemical... I found it one place online for $31 a quart, and locally all I could find was some other brand that the local Napa carried.... Can't remember what brand it was (Johnson's maybe?) but it was $38 a quart.

The local guy is going to do the whole job for $70, so I decided not to mess with it no more then I would have saved, and he has done this before so I feel confident it will be done right.

Thanks again!

Gene
 
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