front end problems

Wed Jan 28, 2004 8:42 pm

i recently purchased a snow blade/grading blade for my 53 cub. i have never moved the adjustable front end in to a narrower position. i am unable to move the axle in or out. should i apply heat and try to turn the tube with a wrench so that it may move or just live with it, the problem is the footprint is just a little wider than the blade when mounted on the front.

Wed Jan 28, 2004 9:37 pm

Yep and once you get the axle loose you got the tie rods to loosen. I used a rose bud torch burning propane, much cheaper than acetylene. I ran a small amount of water through the inside while heating and twisting. You don't want to expand the inside tube with heat so water will help keep it cool while heat will expand the outer tube. Its a tough job. I had mine off and apart except for the axle. Maybe you will want to do that and take to a welding shop.

Wed Jan 28, 2004 9:54 pm

Billy, listen to Jim....Just keep at it don't give up...Restoring my cub the two things that were the toughest. removing the adjustable frontend and the engine pully....

Wed Jan 28, 2004 10:25 pm

RedNed, When you put yours back together did you put anything on it to keep it from being rust/welded again?. When I tackle mine if I get it apart I was thinking of painting the joining parts with Slip-Plate.

Wed Jan 28, 2004 10:45 pm

There has been a lot of talk on this forum about adjustable front ends and what to do before reassembly to prevent the same rust welded condition again. I'm wondering if the factory ever painted the parts seperate. I'll bet they didn't. The tractor probably got painted mostly assembled. Simply painting the parts before assembly will most likely cure it from ever happening again. I haven't had mine apart yet so I don't know how tight they go together so maybe a light coating of lube may still be needed anyway. I know from experience on aircraft that we fight corrosion all the time on close fitting parts and just grease never stops the rust. Can't beat a painted surface for corrosion inhibitor.

Wed Jan 28, 2004 11:04 pm

Johnbron.That sounds good.I think anythin would work. I used anti-seize(bostic). when i put it back together. also some plastilube #3 smeared on.IH had a good idea but the elements just get to it. I painted the axle extension seperate. Was tough to get to it on again moving it back and forth,scratchen paint as it went on. I just keep thinging about the guy who takes this apart or moves it back years from now.I hope he says this guy did a good job. After all this cub will out live me.

wkpoor. I see your in aviation too. (me too)( Poor )Theres no money in aviation did anybody ever tell you that :lol:

Wed Jan 28, 2004 11:17 pm

RedNed wrote:wkpoor. I see your in aviation too. (me too)( Poor )Theres no money in aviation did anybody ever tell you that :lol:

There must be money in it. Copter Pete retired and moved south recently.

Thu Jan 29, 2004 12:02 am

I'm very lucky-I'm in the best spot in this industry, Corporate! We've got a BBJ, 3ea. G4's and 2ea. CRJ's. We've operated a 727Super for over 10yrs plus Hawkers, Challengers and a bunch more.

Thu Jan 29, 2004 7:31 am

I have the axle off mine now. I placed a 6-ton bottle jack with pieces of 4x4 between the extension legs and then kept spraying PB Blaster down around the extensions while rapping the mian pipe with a hammer to break up the rust. It took three days but it finally let loose and I was able to use the jack and pop the rt. extension out. Cleaned it up good inside and out, lubed it, slid it back in and pinned it, then jacked the other side out. It took some time but the process didn't damage any parts.

The harder part for me was cleaning the main and extension pipes inside and out. I used electrolysis to de-rust the parts. Next I took a 2-foot long piece of 5/8" round stock and cut threads on one side with a die. Also cut threads into the stud of a wire cup that just fit into the main axle tube. Used two nuts to lock the two pieces together and then used my drill to wire brush the insides clean. Finally I treated it with metal prep to keep it from rusting back. If you can sandblast everything, that would certainly be easier.

I'll probably epoxy primer the outside of the extensions but as noted eariler, the fit is tight and I think that most of the paint will be knocked off during re-assembly. I plan to use a generous amount of never-seize as well.

Thu Jan 29, 2004 9:33 am

you guys have inspired me to have another go at separating my front axel. been at it with heat and the bottle jack setup until the axel won.

i'll re-set it up and use Jim's water trick to cool the inner tube.