Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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Take the number off of your carb, it should be on the flat spot above the main jet. Take that number to your CaseIH dealer. Get the parts from IH.
I have just heard that TSC and Valu-Bilt. The TSC has rebuild instruction for the M in the Cub kit and the Valu-Bilt was missing stuff.
There will be an additon very shortly to the Maintenance Tips and Techniques section. A very generous fellow cubber took on the carb rebuild article and has sent it to me in the mail. All kits will be listed in the article and a short revue of each hopefully.
Again, use the CaseIH dealer - they are the RIGHT parts
Been there, done that. Just last week.
Get the IH carb kit. At about $45, you get all the parts for a complete overhaul and they are top drawer. Case/IH can get a float, main jet and idle tube just in case you need them. Make sure you have the part # off the carb, there are two versions of the IH carb on the Cub. The two part numbers are very different, so if you can only read a few of them, you'll be able to figure out which one is which.
On the other hand, for $22-$30 you can choose from TSC, Tisco and Valu-Bilt. These kits are identical, down to providing the WRONG instructions, poorly cut gaskets and missing pieces. The difference in quality is shameful. These kits only provide basic necessities, so you're not getting a bargin in my opinion.
Still a bit POed with the off-the-shelf kits, but I learned my lesson.
My last experience was with the Value-Built kit. It was trash big time and I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. I ordered one today from http://www.casetractorparts.com. Complete kit 45 bucks plus shipping. I needed 2 but they only had 1. I'll try this kit out and order another if I'm satisfied.
Thanks for the input I'll let you know,
Hi Donny M,
My parts book list two (2) different kits:
part no. 354 454 R92 for tractors with serial no. 312389 and below
part no. 395 320 R92 for tractors with serial no. 312390 and above.
Of course this assumes that the carb is original within those serial numbers.
I have overhauled four (4) so far and all work great. Just remember that
you may want to check the float level while overhauling. There has been
some great posts on the board about how to do that.
Hope this helps and you get that CUB to going. SPRING IS ON THE
WAY. We have been covered with Robins lately.
The change at 312390 is the engine number. Cub serial numbers didn't go that big. This was the change to the Zenith carburetor.
As far as I know, kit 354 454 R92 works with any of the little squarish carburetors with the IH on the side.
Here's some clarification:
The two IH carburetor part numbers are 251 234 R94 and 364 579 R91. The difference between these carburetors is the size of openings in the air bleed, discharge nozzle and main jet. I don't know when or why the change occured, but you want to make certain these 3 calibrated items remain a matched set if one of them needs replacing.
This has nothing to do with the change from IH to Zenith carburetor (part # 71 523 C91). The 354 454 R92 overhaul kit can be used with either IH carb since none of the 3 calibrated parts are included in it.
I hope this explanation helps.
The 354 454 R92 carb kit arrived today. Man what a difference between this kit and the Value-Bilt kit There's no "value" in that stuff The IH kit is more expensive but worth every penny. The kit comes with most everything and it all fits. The instructions are even correct.
I squashed a dust seal retainer but used one from the "other" kit. I think with the IH kit the carb turned out well.
Looks good on the outside.
Beautiful Job on that carb!
IH kit is about the best! It is wonderful when you don't have to fight with parts so they fit
Tell us what you did to get the halves SHINY NEW
That carb will bring $300.00-$400.00 on ebay
"Never forget where it is you come from, or you may find yourself someplace you don't want to be"
Thanks all It does look good but not near as good as the piece that RedNed just posted man that's beautiful I can only hope.
If you don't tell the EPA I'll post how I did it.
I stripped everything off the aluminum and soaked it in a muratic acid solution. 1 part muratic acid to 4 parts water. I let it sit for about 15 minutes. Took it out and rinsed it with water. Then used a stiff brush to get all the rust stains and crud off. I then repeated several times.
The acid will turn the aluminum a dark gray and it will have a rough texture. Once I was satisified I rinsed throughly and then rinsed again.
A fine brass wire brush does the rest. The inside looks just as good.
13 posts • Page 1 of 1
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