Help smoking Cub has developed radiator fliud in oil

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Help smoking Cub has developed radiator fliud in oil

Postby Steve Ruddy » Sat Feb 28, 2004 2:29 pm

I have a 1948 Cub which was resurrected from a barn about 1.5 years ago. After freeing the frozen engine the compression test showed 100 across all cylinders. The engine has always smoked and used a lot of oil but otherwise ran well. Last week I went to do an oil change and when I drained the oil filter compartment anti-freez came out first. I don't have a lot of money and would like to get her running as inexpensively as possibble. I would like to avoid a total rebuild. Any recommendations? I would like to fix the smoking as well as the anti-freeze leak.
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Postby Donny M » Sat Feb 28, 2004 4:34 pm

The problem you describe could be several things...a blown head gasket, a cracked block ect. I would think further investigation is in order. :( :(

Someone may have other ideas.

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Feb 28, 2004 5:11 pm

As Donny said, a blown head gasket would be siplest, followed by a warped head. It's time to take another compression test so you'll know which cylinders to look at, and then pull the head.
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rad fluid in oil

Postby Bruce Sanford » Sat Feb 28, 2004 8:42 pm

Any head gasket I have ever blown in cars,once the engine startedyou could not see anything but white smoke behind me.
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Postby Donny M » Sun Feb 29, 2004 12:25 am

Steve,

I took a look at your web site. Nice work on the Cub as well as the site. :) :) :)

By the picture of the tractor coming out of the creek bed it would appear that you're burning coolant. Bruce described the picture exactly. White smoke everywhere. Hopefully it's (just) a head gasket.

If you plan to pull the head off, search the board for post's about how to remove stubborn head bolts.

Good luck and let us know what you find,

Donny
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Postby Jack Donovan » Sun Feb 29, 2004 11:04 am

Steve" Great site, I have to go along with the rest of the guy's and say you have a bad head gasket, Seeing where you live, I dont think it froze and cracked the block.. Some times you can crank the engine over, with the ign. off and see air bubbles emerge the the rad , Do this when engine is cold. Generly this means a head gasket. "Jack"
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Postby Steve Ruddy » Sun Feb 29, 2004 11:53 am

I took the head off yesterday and the gasket looked pretty bad. The intake valves all look good but one of the exaust valves doesn't look so good. Do you think this is something I could replace myself? I don't have any valve resurfacing equipment or a lathe. Also the block surface, that meets the head gasket, around the same valve is pitted and I was woundering if I should get that resurfaced/ I'll take some photos today and post this evening.

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Postby George Willer » Sun Feb 29, 2004 12:25 pm

Steve Ruddy wrote:I took the head off yesterday and the gasket looked pretty bad. The intake valves all look good but one of the exaust valves doesn't look so good. Do you think this is something I could replace myself? I don't have any valve resurfacing equipment or a lathe. Also the block surface, that meets the head gasket, around the same valve is pitted and I was woundering if I should get that resurfaced/ I'll take some photos today and post this evening.

Thanks,


Steve,

I remember reading about your project on another site while you were in the process.

There are a lot of things you can do to improve your engine, and you'll get a lot of good advice in that regard. Unfortunately, all the better options come at relatively higher cost... pretty much in relation to their value.

The bad valve and the pitting are usual in an engine that has had the exhaust uncovered for a long time. Take a look at the article I recently wrote that is on Rudi's site... maybe it will give you an idea that can buy you some time.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Maintenance%20Tips%20and%20Techniques/Lapping%20Valves/Lapping%20Valves.htm
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Postby Steve Ruddy » Sun Feb 29, 2004 11:50 pm

Thanks everyone for the replies. I think I will get a machine shop to do a valve job, clean the block and hone the cylinders. I can then replace the rings, head gasket, and maybe a few seals and bearings. I'm going to try and insert a photo I took of the rod bearings in hope that someone can advise if they need replaced.

I remember reading about your project on another site while you were in the process.


Hey George I remember you as well. It's nice to hear from you. Your still giving great help as always. Thanks for the link. I'm sure I will be revisiting that one often.

Ok her goes my try for the image.

Image
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Postby rondellh » Mon Mar 01, 2004 7:16 am

Steve,
I would efinately replace thebearings, They have signs of dirt and coolant contamination. Replace the mains also.
While you are going to the machine shop take the crank also. Have them mic the crank and at least polish it. If it is not worn too much you may get away with standard size bearings. I also think you can still get .001 undrsize bearings for it.

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Mar 01, 2004 9:45 am

I second what rondellh said, also take the head and have it checked/planed as needed.
also, great job with the quality of the photo.
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Postby Steve Ruddy » Mon Mar 01, 2004 11:12 am

OK I'll do it. Any good sources for bearings, rings and seals?
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Mar 01, 2004 12:53 pm

Valu-bolt.com, http://www.cngco.com, as well as several others different people can name, but I got mine through the machine shop. His prices were the same, and if there is a fit problem, there is only one place to talk to.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
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