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This is what I have figured out so far.
The ammeter does not move when on/off swich is used.
The generator tested ok.
I cleaned the contacts on the cut-out.
Ammeter shows discharge when points on cutout are contacted.
The cut-out has been polarized.
Tried grounding F terminal of cut-out to ground.
Have gone over the wiring numerous times to be sure its wired right.
All wiring is new and ammeter is new.
I have looked through the generator/cutout flow chart and know I have problems. I can't figure out why my ammeter is not showing anything when I pull out the switch. It does move a bit to the discharge side when cranking the engine over. Anyways I'm beginning to think it might be my charge/headlight selector switch. Is that a possibility?
Make sure you have a good ground where the dash attaches to the torque tube.
"Never forget where it is you come from, or you may find yourself someplace you don't want to be"
Also, it won't show any discharge on a battey ignition if the points in the distributor happen to be in the open position. You said you polarized the cutout, but the genreator is what needs to be polarized.
Get a cheap digital voltmeter form Walmart, Autozone, etc. and do some checking. With the engine running, you should get a minimum 6.5 up to 7.8 at the generator output, and also on both sides of the cutout, and battery. If you have the 6.5 or higher on the generator side of the cutout, but a lower voltage on the battery side, the cutout is not working.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
I thought to polarize you had to jump a wire from the gen and bat terminals of the cutout???? I do have battery ignition. Before I can check all these things I have to rig up some sort of gas tank so I can run the tractor with the hood off. Maybe that will be tomorrow mornings project.
I'll make one modification to John's comments. I suggest a cheap analog multimeter rather than a digital one. A digital meter tends to jump around because output from the generator can be pertty dirty. An analog meter damps that out and just gives you the average.
Cub scout, You are correct on the location of the terminals. But, what that does, in actuality, is apply battery voltage to the armature terminal of the generator setting up a residual magnetic field. The terminals at the regulator or cut-out are used because the 2 points involved in the process are close together. The gen. terminal goes to the generator armature terminal and the batt terminal goes to the battery hot terminal. It's just a convenient spot to perform the job.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
7 posts • Page 1 of 1
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