Before I went to buy my cub the PO said it was a 1949.
When I got there the serial number on the plate was 122264 (1951?).
The number of the trans/clutch casting is 12/27/T
The number on the Hydrolic Block is 8/8/T
I forgot to look at the engine block number.
So, What year is it?.
Also, the flat bosses on the trans housing where the rockshaft would bolt to have a couple of bolts snapped off in them, any suggesions for getting the stubs out if they are flush with the surface?
Appreciate any help, have photos I can send but I can figure out how to upload them.
Straylight.
This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link: Privacy Policy
NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.
OK, I'm stumped.
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 661
- Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 9:09 pm
- Zip Code: 18603
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub
1955 Cub - Location: PA, Berwick
- Contact:
Your cub according to the numbers is a 1951. The "T" stands for 1950 (8/8/50 & 12/27/50). Those parts were made at approx those dates. Your cub came off the line in '51............
You can search for previous posts on the extraction of broken bolts (penetrating fluid, drilling, easy out, hammer & punch, etc.)
You can search for previous posts on the extraction of broken bolts (penetrating fluid, drilling, easy out, hammer & punch, etc.)
Ron
- Bigdog
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 24144
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
- Zip Code: 43113
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Circleville
- Contact:
Ron has you straight on the dates.
On the broken studs, many people like the process of using left-hand drill bits to remove broken studs. Carefully center punch the stud and start with a small bit and work up. You probably won't have to go up many steps before the stud will come out. If it's stubborn, drill up to near the tap size of the stud and pick the threads out, but I think it will come out before then.
On the broken studs, many people like the process of using left-hand drill bits to remove broken studs. Carefully center punch the stud and start with a small bit and work up. You probably won't have to go up many steps before the stud will come out. If it's stubborn, drill up to near the tap size of the stud and pick the threads out, but I think it will come out before then.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 17272
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
- Bigdog
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 24144
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
- Zip Code: 43113
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Circleville
- Contact:
Hadn't considered that Jim. I'm never that lucky!
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
- Rudi
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 28706
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 8:37 pm
- Zip Code: E1A7J3
- Skype Name: R.H. "Rudi" Saueracker, SSM
- Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub "Granny"
1948 Cub "Ellie-Mae"
1968 Cub Lo-Boy
Dad's Putt-Putt
IH 129 CC
McCormick 100 Manure Spreader
McCormick 100-H Manure Spreader
Post Hole Digger
M-H #1 Potato Digger - Circle of Safety: Y
- Twitter ID: Rudi Saueracker, SSM
- Location: NB Dieppe, Canada
- Contact:
Jim is probably correct on this one. I was perplexed as well to see so many broken bolts in the bosses on the torque tube and finals. Started to clean it up and chunks of what I figured out a little later to be cork came out So I had a read in one of the manuals or something where I learned IH regularily put cork in empty holes so they wouldn't fill with water/dirt/rust etc.
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2004 11:13 pm
- John *.?-!.* cub owner
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2004 11:13 pm
Jim Becker you were right!
Jim Becker wrote:Maybe you will get lucky and find out the broken bolts are really corks put in at the factory.
I did get lucky, that is exactly what the
"broke bolt heads" were, corks. Up the Republic!
Straylight.
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 17272
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 43 guests