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Float Sticks

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linhorst99
10+ Years
10+ Years

Float Sticks

Postby linhorst99 » Thu Apr 22, 2004 8:56 pm

I've got a problem with a sticking float on a '52 Cub. First, the float must have stuck shut, and wouldn't run unless the choke was pulled out. I tapped on the carb, and after awhile it ran OK. Then it must have stuck open, and overnight spilled about three gallons of gas on my garage floor. Is there an easy fix, or is it time to rebuild the carb? Thanks!

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Lurker Carl
Cub Pro
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Circle of Safety: Y
Location: PA, Todd

Postby Lurker Carl » Thu Apr 22, 2004 9:17 pm

linhorst99,

It's time to rebuild. But be prepared for some sticker shock. Get the $45 kit from a CaseIH dealer, the $25 'off the shelf' kits are just about worthless and tend to have parts missing and the wrong rebuild instructions. A dealer also can supply a new float and idle tube if you need them. I use the Kohler float needle and cage assy from the small engine carb kit, they seal better than the anything else I've tried.

While you are working on the carburetor, drain the tank and remove the fuel line and sediment bowl assy for a good cleaning. Check the tank and clean out any rust and goop.

Good luck with the repair, it's a very simple system.

Lurker Carl

Ron L
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Zip Code: 18603
Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub
1955 Cub
Location: PA, Berwick
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Postby Ron L » Fri Apr 23, 2004 7:45 am

Just to add on to what Lurker said...... First take the carburator apart and see if you can determine what is hanging the float up (if that's the problem). Be sure to check to see if the gasket is interfering with the float as it moves. Also check the movement and be sure it moves free & smooth.
Ron

Harold R
Team Cub Guide
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Tractors Owned: 1948,55, and 56 Farmall Cubs.
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Location: Louisiana

Postby Harold R » Sat Apr 24, 2004 5:21 pm

I have a little experience in this area, so I'll add my 2 cents worth. First, go to this forum's home page and find the link for H.L. Chauvins commentary. He includes several paragraphs on carb repair, and how to set the float. I fumbled around for weeks with a new carb kit only to have it run too rich, or lean, and always have that persistant drip after shut down. I feel the most important item is making sure the float tang is paralell with the top half of the carb. (When carb is split and top half upside down) Over the years, mine had been bent so many times, it was "S" shaped. I'll include a pic of the hose set-up. I think the 5/8 mark is still on the carb. The pic is not very good, but you'll get the idea.
HR
http://home.jam.rr.com/hroberts/Float%20Adj..jpg


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