Lights

[Paul_NJ]

Moving on to the lights:

I dissasembled the headlights and the taillight tonight - the lenses were dirty, the housings were rusty in places, seal ring material was hanging out on one, and one was pretty moist inside. I have a couple of questions if someone can help me:

1. The bulbs are GE #1195. My Cub was a 12v conversion when I bought it. Can anyone confirm that these are 12v bulbs?

2. Does anyone have any experience on locating replacement seal gaskets? C&G doesn't have them.

3. I notice the reflectors are easily scuffed, even with a soft rag with Windex. Any suggestions on cleaning/polishing them?

4. The housings and rings look like excellent candidates for the electrolysis cleaning tank. Will it damage the copper fittings though?

Thanks for any comments and suggestions.

Paul

[johnbron]

I see the old style headlight gaskets in my O.E.M. catalog for $4.25 each. You should NOT put Brass,Copper or aluminum in the electrolysis tank.

[parts man]

To restore light reflectors we sandblast them clean, then paint with a spray can of chrome paint (model paint). Put a garbage bulb in the socket so you don't paint over the contacts.

[Ken (48 Cub)]

I have a two of the IH front gaskets still in the package. I think they were $7 a piece. If you are interested send me a PM.

[Cub-Bud]

My dad ordered the ring gaskets from our local dealer about three weeks ago and I have the Case/IH part # for them...I'll have it for you by the end of the day.

[Chris Jones]

For headlamps I use vacuum tubing or perhaps it was windshield washer tubbing It works great in place of the origional gaskets. The tubing being round makes a good seal, touching the glass, reflector, outer light shell and the clamp when assembled. It is squished just enough to make a good seal. It took stops at a couple of auto parts stores before I found the right size hose.

Before I started using the vacuum tubing I had ordered some cub headlamp gaskets from a place and what arrived was flat rubber washers instead of the origional T shaped ones. I complained and they were quite snippy saying nobody else complained and they fill the space between reflector and glass... They might do that but they didn't seal between the housing and the reflector at all. They finally refunded my money. I think they charged over $3 each.

[Greg]

I got my gaskets from OEM, they fit great.

[Cub-Bud]

The Case/IH part # for the gasket is 53527D. This part may not officially be for a cub, but it works.

[johnbron]

The Case/IH part # for the gasket is 53527D. This part may not officially be for a cub, but it works.

*********************
Bud that #(53527D) is the same part number as in the OEM catalog and it will fit 8 different models.

[Chris Jones]

I measured the vacuum tubing I use and it is 1/4 inch ouside diameter and about 7/64 inside diameter. Each light takes 15 inches. I wouldn't trade it for the origionals if someone gave them to me at this point, it works that good. Just my 2 cents.

[Paul_NJ]

Chris, I like the simple approach. Did you just butt the ends, or angle cut them? I'd like to give it a try -

[Chris Jones]

I butt the ends and put them at the bottom of the light when installed. I noticed one of the dryed and cracked T shaped origionals was actually stapled to make it a loop. Don't know if that is normal or not but it looks like the origionals had a joint too. I figure if water gets in it the joint at the bottom, and I always put the clamp joint at the bottom, will let the water seep out.

[Rudi]

Here is what I do.

I put Spae Nauer Ring Terminals, crimped on the ends. I then take me soldering iron and solder the connection. Then I cover the connection with shrink tube. Not exactly original, but sure keeps the moisture out. For added protection use Fluid Film, it is silicone based but works real well in keeping moisture out. Antenna firms use it up here on co-ax etc., to extend the life span of the joint.

Works for me