HAD CARB. WORKED ON, CLEANED SEDIMENT BOWL AND LINES AND STILL SPUTTERS, JERKS, AND ALMOST SHUTS OFF BUT STAGGERS ALONG. MOSTLY WHEN I ENGAGE MOWER DECK. IT IS A 52 CUB WITH COMPLETE OVERHAUL LAST YEAR. COULD THE GOVERNOR ARM NEED ADJUSTMENT AS A PREVIOUS POST DISCUSSED ??? I DID TURN A COUPLE THINGS TRYING TO GET IT TO IDLE FASTER.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP AGAIN
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STILL LOSING POWER
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HART
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Rudi
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Hart:
Well, what ever you adjusted on the carb itself is not hard to reverse but is probably not necessary. Do you have a Dwell-Tachometer? If so, hook it up and check the rpm's. At Low idle it should be running between 400 and 600 rpm. Lower the better as the manual states 400. The main idle screw should be closed then opened 1-1/4 - 1-1/2 turns, no more. Then use the high idle screw to adjust to rpm's.
The suggestion that the governor is probably causing the problem may also be correct. If it is surging then it is the governor. Was the bumper spring replaced? Was the governor rebuilt or just cleaned up?
My money is on the governor as she falters when loaded.
Well, what ever you adjusted on the carb itself is not hard to reverse but is probably not necessary. Do you have a Dwell-Tachometer? If so, hook it up and check the rpm's. At Low idle it should be running between 400 and 600 rpm. Lower the better as the manual states 400. The main idle screw should be closed then opened 1-1/4 - 1-1/2 turns, no more. Then use the high idle screw to adjust to rpm's.
The suggestion that the governor is probably causing the problem may also be correct. If it is surging then it is the governor. Was the bumper spring replaced? Was the governor rebuilt or just cleaned up?
My money is on the governor as she falters when loaded.
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