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CRACK CRACK CRACK!

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S.H.A.F.T.
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Cub repair

Postby S.H.A.F.T. » Sat Aug 07, 2004 6:23 pm

Allenlook, you are exactly right. Take it to someone familiar with cast iron repair, have him weld it with nickel rod and you are finished. My tractor was fixed that way years ago and it is fine. I am refering to the crack you have below your grill.

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Postby George Willer » Sat Aug 07, 2004 6:40 pm

AllenLook,

Unlike the front ear on the engine, this break isn't under much stress... so a weld repair is possible. It will require a lot of careful preparation (cleaning, sandblasting, and crack grinding) and temperature control. Here's a picture of one I repaired some time ago. I did clamp the casting to eliminate the bulge and did some careful cosmetic work afterward. You should be able to do the same.

Image

Image
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CRACKS-CRACKS-CRACKS

Postby LARRY BALL » Sat Aug 07, 2004 11:03 pm

GEORGE, I HAVE THE EXACT PROBLEM YOUR SPEAKING OF. THE FRONT EARS ON THE ENGINE BLOCK ON THE RIGHT SIDE AT THE COOLANT TUBE ARE BROKEN OFF. THE FRONT BOLSTER CRACKED AND BROKE IN HALF LEAVING THE TRACTOR ON THE GROUND, " NOSE DOWN". I HAVE PURCHASED A NEW BOLSTER HOUSING FROM T&M. DO YOU THINK THE EARS ON THE BLOCK CAN BE WELDED SUFFICENTLY ENOUGH FOR A "SOLID" REPAIR??
THANKS,
LARRY :cry: :cry: :cry:
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Postby George Willer » Sun Aug 08, 2004 7:13 am

Larry,

No, I don't think it can be welded to be as strong as original (which was not strong enough). Adding external gussets will, of course help, but I would only spend the effort to keep an engine running that is otherwise sound. I wouldn't invest money rebuilding a repaired block. It will take less stress to break it the next time.

The problem is not the weld itself, but the heat affected metal in the boundary area adjacent to the weld. It's just the nature of cast iron for the carbon content to be altered in form by welding heat.

I know others disagree.
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Postby Harold R » Sun Aug 08, 2004 8:01 am

I know others disagree.


Actually George, you are spot on the money. My Dad was a machinist trained by the Army, he said the exact same thing when he repaired my front engine cover. (Slot for cooling fan). He's forgot more stuff than I'll ever know!! :lol: In fact, I may post a picture of his latest bit of "piddling" he did for my '50.
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Very true.

Postby allenlook » Sun Aug 08, 2004 8:56 am

George,

Just having looked over the tractor in the past few days, I agree with you completely. Although it looks sturdy, I can really believe that a lot of the blocks are cracked on those front ears. While having the engine block be a part of the chassis is an elegant and simple design, those front tabs just don't look like they have enough mass to survive repeated farm-related beatings...

Subjecting that area to welding-level heat, and perhaps not getting the entire crack repaired internally (which leaves stress points at any sharp angle internally or externally along the crack) would only lead to future failures.
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Postby Harold R » Sun Aug 08, 2004 9:01 am

I was getting ready to discard these parts for some new ones. The throttle plate had been welded to the steering column, as well as the bolt.
He said, " I can dress that up". Boy did he ever. Dads, what would we do without'em! :)

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Postby jim turner » Sun Aug 08, 2004 10:37 am

Well Guy here is my thoughts I had one welded by a pro that was supposed too know what he was doing and it held for about six months and went to leaking, so I bought a new one from Value Built in Ia for $240.00 and I had paid $100.00 for the weld job.
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Where?

Postby allenlook » Sun Aug 08, 2004 11:42 am

Jim,

Where was the crack that you had repaired, and how serious was the crack to begin with?

All,

As this appears to be a "good" topic (one that everyone has an opinion about, and one that too many unfortunate list members have had experience with), is there anything I can do in the service of the list, like taking pictures, documenting the position of the crack and trueness of the radiator seat, etc., and then keeping track of the fix? Or is it just too subjective based on the quality of the fix (and the fixer?)
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Postby Bigdog » Sun Aug 08, 2004 12:11 pm

Pictures and a story are always good!
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Finally!

Postby allenlook » Sun Aug 08, 2004 4:03 pm

Finally got the @#$! thing off!

Now I need to clean it up some and get it welded - I'll try to get pictures at each stage.
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Postby Rudi » Sun Aug 08, 2004 4:33 pm

Yup:

Pics, narrative and stuff would be an excellent way to get an article for the Maintenance Tips and Techniques section on the server. I am always looking for someone to volunteer to document their repairs etc., so that others can learn from what has gone before.

Please, do document as you go along, including the front end stuff too!
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WHOA WHOA WHOA!!!

Postby allenlook » Mon Aug 09, 2004 7:55 pm

Well, now that things are cleaned up it's a different story!

I put a high-pressure water gun to the bolster today, and instead of two cracks 3 inches long, I actually have a single crack the *entire width* of the bolster! It's 12 to 14 inches long.

I took it to two welding shops, but the young canogies didn't know what they were looking at... I still think it could be fixed by someone who knows what they're doing, but it's a matter of *finding* the right canogie... It needs to be drilled and ground out, heat soaked for a good long time, welded, and then let cool inside the heat soaker while the whole oven cools down over the course of a day...

For now, I'll be saving myself some legwork and buying a used one!

:!: :evil: :shock: :shock: :? :!: :evil: :x :shock: :?
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Used one is on the way...

Postby allenlook » Thu Aug 12, 2004 7:25 pm

Waiting... waiting... waiting... :D

Got the check in the mail to the parts man today - it's only a matter of time :D
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