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Oil pan leaks

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ScottyG
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Oil pan leaks

Postby ScottyG » Fri Aug 20, 2004 4:56 pm

Does anyone have a simple fix for oil pan seeps around a brand new gasket? I thought I put enough gasket goo on the cork gasket before installing but there are oil seeps around the bolt heads. When the bolts were tightened down, the gasket bulges in those places which is where the oil is coming from.

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Aug 20, 2004 5:04 pm

You probably need to straighten the edges. Take it off and get a wooden block to rest it on and using a hammer drive it back down level around the bolt holes.
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Postby Arizona Mike » Fri Aug 20, 2004 6:02 pm

is there anyone making neoprene pan gaskets"

Thanks

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Oil pan

Postby allenlook » Sat Aug 21, 2004 9:48 am

John,

I've got mine off right now, and I'm going to work on it today...

How good is good enough? Mine appears to be straight, but it has a little roughness and pitting around the outside of the gasket edge. The previous gasket that was on there leaked a ton of oil, even out the back side and down into the clutch housing...

Should I be using goo, or just polishing up the surfaces with 0000 steel wool or something like that and using the new gasket - dry or with a light coat of new oil on it...?
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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Aug 21, 2004 9:55 am

The main thing is to make sure it is straight, with no high spots around the bolts, etc. When I put my 48 together aobut 17 years ago I used gasket sealer on the pan side, but not on the block side. May not have needed it, but it has been there ever since.
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Postby artc » Sat Aug 21, 2004 3:42 pm

just to add to what John said....

the most important thing is to bang the pan back into shape. i put ithem on the concrete floor and use a small ball peen hammer, then i put silicone on both surfaces (but don't be sloppy), being certain they are clean and oil free. do NOT overtighten the bolts on reinstallation, they will simply bend the pan and bulge the gasket again.
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ScottyG
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Postby ScottyG » Sun Aug 22, 2004 3:57 pm

So while we're on the subject with the three in the back, what kind of tool do you guys use soe that you don't need to split the tractor? Is there something jointed that you'd recommend or do you use the screwdriver/box wrench thingy that has alot of four letter words?

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sun Aug 22, 2004 4:12 pm

Get a universal joint for your ratchet extension, or some of the companies are selling wobble extensions that have the shoulders where the sockets fit rounded so it can wobble around.
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3 in the back

Postby allenlook » Mon Aug 23, 2004 7:01 am

I had to go buy a "universal joint" for my socket, I couldn't find mine, and "the three in the back" were covered in oil and 50 years of snot, and there was no way they were coming out without one.

My dad used to have a flexible "whip" about 4-6 inches long, sort of a super-duty gooseneck that was the best socket extension I've seen, but I can't find a new one anywhere (and Lord knows where his went.)

I *hate* losing tools... Usually happened when the significant other said "Oh, sure, he wouldn't mind if you borrowed his <whatever>", then I never see it again.
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Postby ScottyG » Wed Aug 25, 2004 8:12 pm

Mine just sticks it in a drawer but can never quite remember which one. Or worse yet... "I didn't know what it was so I put it away." Ok?! :cry:

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Re: Oil pan leaks

Postby Emackinnon » Mon Sep 07, 2020 7:02 am

I actually put studs in the back last time I split the tractor, you still need to wrestle with getting in there with tooling but it’s much easier to start the nuts on exposed studs then to start bolts through a gasket and goo, while it’s starting to cure.

Note, I had to do some dry runs to make sure the studs weren’t too long.

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Re: Oil pan leaks

Postby tomstractor » Mon Sep 07, 2020 7:24 am

I use a 1/4 drive with a "u Joint" and a long extension and put a little clay on the joint to stiffen it up.

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Re: Oil pan leaks

Postby BigBill » Mon Sep 14, 2020 9:39 pm

I put the oil pans, valve covers on a flat surface and use a narrow piece of wood and tap the wood to make the mounting surface flat and parallel again. These pans and covers become distorted from over tightening. The cork gasket can ooze out between the bolt holes too. On the gasket surface I use the 3 m weather stripping adhesive on the pan side. This glues the gasket to the pan/covers. You can remove it many times without replacing the gasket.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Re: Oil pan leaks

Postby NJ Farmer » Tue Sep 15, 2020 6:34 am

Don’t use silicone for any oil pans/oil pan gaskets. If you feel you need any type of “sealant” with the cork gasket use Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket sold at NAPA. Comes in a small can with a brush inside can.

Personally I like the gaskets with rubber impregnated ones. To make sure you get a good seal all surface must be clean and free of all old gasket material and oil. Use Brake Cleaner or other solvent to clean all surfaces.

Silicone is for sealing water out and doesn’t work well with high temperatures and oils....Engine manufactures use specialty designed sealants and silicone isn’t one of them.

Also don’t over torque the 3 rear oil pan bolts because they are screwed into the rear oil seal housing which is made of Aluminum. Follow the correct torque spec on these bolts or you will stripped them out.

NJ Farmer

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Re: Oil pan leaks

Postby Clemsonfor » Tue Sep 15, 2020 2:30 pm

NJ Farmer wrote:Don’t use silicone for any oil pans/oil pan gaskets. If you feel you need any type of “sealant” with the cork gasket use Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket sold at NAPA. Comes in a small can with a brush inside can.

Personally I like the gaskets with rubber impregnated ones. To make sure you get a good seal all surface must be clean and free of all old gasket material and oil. Use Brake Cleaner or other solvent to clean all surfaces.

Silicone is for sealing water out and doesn’t work well with high temperatures and oils....Engine manufactures use specialty designed sealants and silicone isn’t one of them.

Also don’t over torque the 3 rear oil pan bolts because they are screwed into the rear oil seal housing which is made of Aluminum. Follow the correct torque spec on these bolts or you will stripped them out.

NJ Farmer
you are correct , silicone is not for oil but for water. The kind of silicone you buy in a tube at HD or Lowe's. But I encourage you to go read your tubes of RTV silicone at the auto parts stores. There is blue, red, black, grey, and ultra of each color. If you look they are rated for oils. Each color may not be but each tube lists applications. I know for a fact that grey and black (ultra grey and black are my go tos) are rated for oil applications. I use them all the time and only the RTV silicone. Use them on my other tractor when replacing wheel flanges, hydraulics where a gasket is. Not a leak. On my old 4wd I use it on the differential alone. I have no leaked out of my differential after years when I last opened them up. You need to follow the directions on a tube. 90% of people use it wrong and it's user error. Personally I put thin complete coats on each side of a mating surface..thicker if I know there is imperfections. Now this is the part no one does and usually you get away without doing it but not always. You hand tighten the bolts finger tight till the basket just starts to squeeze out. Leave it for an hour in normal summer temps to allow it to set up. Then you come back after that time and torque it to your spec. Then YOU ARE NOT supposed to put oil in it for like 12 to 24 hours if I remember right. The last step though to me is not as important as letting it cure before you torque it...if you actually did this step. But you want it to set up so it has material to compress.


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