Farmall C & Super C Tractors, 1948-1954
Moderator: Team Cub
You can view the 2 petcocks as the "full" and "add" lines on a dip stick. If oil comes out the top one, it is full. If it doesn't come out the lower one, time to add some. They are back seating valves with left hand threads. Turn to the left to open, right to close.
Given the history, I'd start with the drain plug. Let the water out before doing anything else.
The prognosis is that the engine is stuck.......really stuck! I took the head off, drained the two gallons of water out of the crankcase and filled each cylinder with penetrant. I put about two gallons of diesel back into the crankcase. I put the crank handle in and hung a cub rear wheel weight on it. It's been there for three days now with no movement. (I marked the front pully) Yesterday I did some moderate pounding with a wood block on the piston tops.....no luck there. Today I may have time to drop the oil pan, I suspect that the crank and rods are fused by rust. One odd thing I noticed, It seems as water ran through the cast iron manifold......it transfered some cast iron deposits into the clylinders, which bonded very well to the cylinder walls.....but not the pistons. The question I have for today......assuming that the sleeves and pistons are ruined, and I get no movement from the pistons to get them out, can I disconnect the rod caps and drive piston, sleeve and all, up from the bottom? If I'm not mistaken, sleeve pullers have to have an empty cylinder.
I'm not sure why you would want to drive the pistons up. A stuck engine has to have a complete tear down. So go ahead and split the tractor, you'll have to anyhow, and get the engine on the stand where you can work on it. Laying on your back working overhead sounds like a bunch of skinned nuckles to me.
47 Cub (Glenda)
52 Super A
62 Cub (Genie)
In all things know which way the wind is blowing.
I talk of engine position as it would sit in the tractor. I would have no intention of doing a complete overhaul with the block still in the tractor. I would however replace piston rings, rod bearings etc if I could get movement to where pistons and sleeves could be removed conventionally. The engine had a fresh overhaul prior to being parked. I'm trying to ascertain what survived the long sit, and what did not.
I was under the impression that sleeves were top loaded only......If pistons were fused to the sleeves, take the rod caps off, crank out, and drive sleeve with stuck piston back out the top. (I know if on an engine stand you could rotate the engine upside down). Perhaps sleeves can be punched down through the bottom once the crank is out????
You might could drive the pistons downward, but the sleeves must come up through the top. They cannot be driven downward.
"12 volt conversions are for quitters"
IH's are RED. Just say NO to yellow and white!
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Well, after a week of soaking, tapping, soaking, pounding, and verbal abuse......the Super C engine wouldn't give in. Looking underneath, the engine stopped in a position where I can't easily get to one side of the rod caps to remove them, so, as some of you suggested, the engine has to be removed. On the plus side, when removing the hydraulic pump and lines, nice clear fluid ran out and the pump turned freely......so maybe no issues there that a kit won't solve. On the down side.....when I removed the govenor housing, I found the govenor to be one solid hunk of rust. I looks as if water had been standing in there, but I don't see how. The distributor side was rust free, but there was tons of grease where it fits to the back of the gov. and that served it's purpose well. So far....I haven't run into anything else that would keep me from thinking this tractor won't run again.
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