Piston and Rings posting continued

[Glenn]

Well, I am back from my trip a couple of days early thanks to "Ivan" and I checked old 1956 (no printable name yet) to see if my torture treatment worked, nope.[url] Next step, tear down and hammer 'em out, I measured the cylinders at the top and their around 2.620, about 1 1/2" down the bore it runs 2.630. After I clean 'em up and re-measure what are the specs for determining if the block needs to be bored and ring size??

Thanks, Glenn [/url]

[EZ]

Glenn,
It took me a bit to figure out what you were up to with the jacks, but I got it. What about removing the oil pan, take a bearing cap off and pound the piston upward using a soft-wood dowel. It might be easier to loosen up 1 at a time rather than trying to turn 4 stuck ones with the crank. You gotta take 'em out anyway. I've done 2 engines so far, one I layed on my back doing, the other I removed and used an engine stand. If you have a good size ridge on the top of the cylinders you will need a ridge reamer or you'll bang away for quite awhile before finding that the pistons will not come out. Get them loosened up first, then let the fun begin.

[Eugene]

I&T manual states the standard bore is 2.625. Your current readings are + and - .005 from standard. I would clean up the engine, hone out the cylinders and take another set of readings and see where you are at. If there are no significant changes in the readings, gouges in the block, etc., I would go with a standard set of rings - I would not have the block bored out.

Double check the taper .010 in 1 1/2 inches is excessive.

The only place I checked for oversized rings was Value-Bilt and they only have over sized rings and pistons at .040 and .060 over.

That's my opinion. May not be worth 2 cents.

Eugene

[Glenn]

Thanks for the info guys, I am going to pull the engine, put it on an engine stand, and do the wood dowel number.

Glenn

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Don't forget to check for out of round in addition to taper.