Wed Jul 18, 2007 10:00 am
perk Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 11:13 am Post subject: Cleaning Small Parts
Thought I would share this: To clean small parts (nuts, bolts, washers and other small parts) I took a Jif jar, put about 2 inches of fine sand, then added a degreaser-cleaner, added hot water to within 2 inches of the top, installed the lid, shake-shake-shake and I was amazed as to how clean these parts came out!
Ralph Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 9:46 pm Post subject: Cleaning Small Parts
Ralph... Posted: Tue Nov 07, 2006 7:09 pm Post subject: Question About Restoring Implements
How To Clean Up Nuts and Bolts With A Rock Tumbler
Sat Nov 03, 2007 6:56 pm
George Willer Posted: Tue Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:37 am Post subject: witch carb is better
Rick asked me to 'splain it... The fibre washers are very hard and won't really seal well against a surface that's less than perfect so they're to blame for a lot of dripping carburetors. Often the drips are mistakenly blamed on the needle valve.
I use black Permatex but I suppose RTV silicone would do as well. I use a couple squares of cardboard like a cereal box. Put a small dab of the sealer on one and rub them together "hoochie coochie". Both pieces should have a thin film of sealer. Now lay a washer between them and do the hoochie again and it should have a very thin film of sealer with no extra to squeeze out and cause problems. I handle the coated washers with tweezers. This treatment cures a lot of dripping carburetors.
Tue Nov 06, 2007 7:01 pm
RockClimb Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 10:32 pm Post subject: Cracked Lower Radiator Housing
On my Grandpa's 1951 Cub several years ago the lower radiator housing cracked one winter and he had it welded. It had leaked a little ever since. When I started restoring it I looked for a replacement but was never able to find one. I took the housing and ground out the weld and the crack and had it brazed, but even after 3 attempts it still leaked a little bit.
I contacted Epoxy Systems and explained what I was working on and that I wanted a perminant fix. They recommended #652 http://www.epoxy.com/652.htm. I sandblasted the inside of the housing and applied the epoxy. No leaks since!
Sandblasting and cleaning with a non-flammable degreaser is recomended for best results. The pot life of the epoxy is stated to be 20 minutes at 75 degrees So mix and apply fast! It is rated to 400 degrees dry location and 300 degrees submerged.
Be careful around any "icing trails" that you may leave when troweling in.... They can be sharp enough to cut you.
Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:21 pm
CT Yankee Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 7:53 pm Post Subject: Cub on Fire! Don't Make This Mistake
All we can do is learn from each other...I made a very stupid mistake today and I'm lucky I'm home to write about it tonight so another person doesn't repeat it. I am still new to this old tractor stuff and have not had my cub for a year yet. Therein is the problem...I cut a corner!
Today I pulled the cub out of the garage...it had been running only a few minutes. I had a little difficulty starting it...it got cold in CT. I moved it to the driveway and attempted to fill the tank with a small amount of gas. I know better...I know better. In a second the cub was on fire...the hood was burning, really burning...my coat sleeve was on fire. I could not put the fire out on my coat...so I hit the grass. The fire on the hood was still going...I kept my head about me and got the fire on my coat out. I ran to the garage and a quick hit with a fire extinguisher that hung on the wall for years knocked the fire out. When all was done my cub looked like a demonstrator...all white powder. It was unbelievable...it all happened in a split second. I can only imagine how many farmers this may have happened to over the years at the end of a long day when they were trying to save a little time.
By the grace of god I am physically O.K. but I feel ridiculous in that I know better. I was trying to save a little time I guess, and the cub is O.K. I can't believe that I came out this without significant injury or loss. I have no hair on my arm and hand but no burns. I am appreciative of my Carhartt coat and my fire extinguisher. (if you work on these things get both) The tractor cleaned up with next to no damage...it looks like the fire burned on top of the liquid and not the painted surface.
I thought hard about writing this post...I am humbled and deserve to be called a dummy. I hope that my documentation of a split second mistake can prevent somebody who is new or a little to comfortable with the cub from getting hurt. I am truly thankful to god tonight...respectfully submitted.
.........this was one of the scariest and fastest developing scenarios I've ever been through. Thank God I got the gas jug away before it caught fire.
One other thing I remembered that I didn't originally post...some how I shut the tractor off by the kill switch after I put the fire on my sleeve out. The fan really fueled the fire and kept moving the fuel around. At that point, I was able to get a handle on things with the extinguisher. Hope this helps you Brian and others. Thanks to all
Sat Jan 26, 2008 5:49 pm
George Willer Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:36 pm Post subject: transmission lube measurement
Here's another way to fill the transmission with the correct amount of lube.
I'm getting the RatCub ready for a test run whenever the weather and my mood match.
I didn't add the lube when I assembled the tranny, and I didn't want to use the level plug for obvious reasons. I don't have proper liquid measuing containers so I used a coffee can. By careful measurements and calculations I determined the 3 1/2 pints would require 3 9/16 deep in the 6" diameter can. By marking that measurement on a stick I could pour exactly that amount into the can. Wasn't that easy?
Volume measurements on a dipstick are also useful when painting as well. The stick can have a mark for the paint and another higher mark for paint + reducer. It's handier and maybe even more accurate than a scales.
Sat Apr 05, 2008 12:43 pm
Dennis B Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:04 pm Post subject: How To Clean Acid From Battery Terminals
Most of us hate handling batteries and battery cables corroded with acid. I have a method that I have used and works great and want to pass it on to the members. Maybe this has already been posted but here it goes. First I brush away any loose powdery acid with a old paint brush. Removing the battery works best from here on. Mix up in a container (cool whip for example) approximately one part baking soda and four parts hot water (more or less). Take the cable ends and submerge them in the solution. Immediately it will start foaming and bubbling like mad. Keep the end in until it stops bubbling which means the acid is all off the end. Pull it out and it will look like new. Rinse with clean water and your done. If the cable can't be dipped you can use the paint brush and just brush it on till it's clean. Make sure to caught any drippings so you don't have a mess all over. You can also clean the battery box with this solution and also the top of the battery. Just rinse everything with clean water and your done.
Sat Apr 05, 2008 12:50 pm
BigDog Fri Dec 17, 2004 5:27 pm Post subject: Shop Tip
I know lots of guys already do this but it's worth mentioning anyway. If you have an old automobile scissors jack around (and who doesn't) it makes a handy work support in the shop. You can weld a platform on the bottom for stability and a flat pad on the top to support the work. They are handy for many tasks from leveling long pieces for alignment to supporting and lining up heavy pieces for assembly. The infinite adjustment they provide is quite handy for precision alignment of castings etc. The great thing about them is they are cheap and if you lose one it's not big deal. If you don't already have 2 or 3 of them around, a quick trip to the junkyard will fix you up.
Sat Apr 12, 2008 10:13 pm
The hardest part of sliding the pto shaft back in place, while aligning the shifter rod is shining a flashlight down in the fill hole and trying to look around the flashlight.
I made up a miniture drop cord using a mini light bulb. The bulb can be lowered down in the hole leaving only two small wires visible in the hole. The little 12 volt bulb illuminates all of the inside of the pto cavity. You can then see the end of both shafts, collar and the shifter lever all at the same time. What was taking me sometimes hours to install the shaft, now a very few minutes.
Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:07 am
Bigdog wrote:The guys have steered you right. The belt has internal cords for strength just like a tire. When a belt gets thrown off a pulley the cords stretch, often to the point of breaking as the belt rides over the lip of the pulley. Once that happens the belt will no longer track true. Just like a tire with broken cords. It is not always visible to the eye but the belt is ruined. That is why when a belt comes off, you should loosen the idlers, place the belt on the pulleys and then tighten the idlers. Never run the belt up over the lip of the pulley when installing a new belt.
Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:56 am
Dennis (47 Cub) wrote:Here is a little trick I'll just call Googles Helper. If you want to search ALL of the Craigslist ads in ALL cities, try this in Google search
farmall cub site:*.craigslist.org
The key is the * (asterisk) wildcard to search all the sub-domains that Craigslist uses, such as kansascity.craigslist.org.
This will show you ALL Farmall Cub ads for the entire country in one search. Be ready, there are pages, and pages of them -- I just counted 32 page results. Be aware, that ads may be flagged or removed (sold) when you click on the Google link from the last time Google crawled (searched) the site.
Sat Aug 09, 2008 2:08 pm
Rick(billyandmillie) wrote: Here's a pic of the rusted dogleg screws that came out as slick anyone could ask for. My cousin Denny arrived a little while ago with a can of Loctite Freeze and Release. He wanted me to be his guinea pig. He also bought a can for himself A quick spray on each small screw and they back right out. I thought for sure I'd have to drill and tap those holes. Thanks cousin Denny
There was also a frozen exhaust valve on #1 cylinder that quickly unstuck and now works perfect, plus I had a snapped off final bolt that's now laying on the floor
Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:25 am
phantom wrote:this thread brought back to my mind one of the questions i have had ever since i changed my first throw out bearing in my first cub. i finally got together all the things i need to answer my question.
the question was-how do they keep the graphite in the bearing. here is what i did....
i put a brand new tob in a vice between two boards. not tight. a match book cover would easily slide between the board and the bearing. using my grease gun i lubricated the new bearing with grease according to the book. when i had the bearing filled with grease i tried to pass the match book cover between the board and the bearing. it didn't fit! i had pushed the graphite block out of the casting with the grease gun the same as stretching the tracks on a dozer. i repeated the test with a used up bearing.(the very same bearing i took out of my first cub...what a pack rat) by the third pump of grease the graphite had pushed on the graphite enough to start the graphite on its way out. i took the bearing out of the vice and two more pumps brought the graphite all the way out of the casting revealing hardened grease that the oil had been leeched from.
i suspect another line should be added to the book. if the clutch pedal on a tractor was held down enough to put normal pressure on the graphite block, it would not move, but could be lubricated without dislodging the graphite.
Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:27 am
Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:18 pm
Rudi wrote:This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :
How Dismount and Mount Cub Tires to Rims??
H.L. Chauvin wrote:Now to remove the steel rim from the tire or tire from rim. Plastic garbage bags work great -- just cover half of the circumference of the steel rim with a new, empty, minimum 13 gallon garbage bag, pull up on the tire by hand while standing on the rim, & both sides of the tire slide off as slick as an eel traveling through room temperature boiled okra.
Steel rim outer circumference was wire brushed, painted & allowed to dry, new garbage bag provided in place again, & both sides of tire slipped in the rim with little effort.
Inserted new tube, inflated tire, & no leaks.
Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:53 pm
Rudi wrote:This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :
How To Diagnose Governor Woes
Clark Thompson wrote:I have been restoring cubs for over 30 years now. I personally have never seen a Governor just go bad and not work! I would check to see if the Governor spring is good ( Not broken) If it appears to be OK then check to see if it has the proper spring on it. Many times the spring breaks. People not knowing think its just a spring, go the local hardware store and get a close match to the spring. This is a NO NO! . It might look close but close only works in Horseshoes! If your sure you have the correct spring, then is the throttle adjustment right? If not, then you need to get directions from a manual on how to properly adjust the Governor. If thats all correct and it still doesn't work then there are only 2 other things it could be. On the lever that the linkage from the carburetor that connects to the Governor linkage is a little roll pin in the linkage lever. It might be broken or rusted away. If this is OK then there is 1 more place to look and is the most common problem with the Cub Governor not working. On the Governor shaft is a keyed shaft. Over time this key-way on the shaft wears to the point that the Governor will no longer work . Take this shaft out. I bet you will find the shaft key-way worn. You can fix it with JB-Weld or I use what is called weld stick. Its a 2 part putty that works well . Take and clean the shaft well. Fill the woodruff key hole with the putty . Then press a new woodruff key into place. Put the shaft back on the Governor. Let dry. This will fix it permanently. You can usually tell if this key is worn. Hold the Governor shaft where the spring attach's. Then try to move the attached shaft back & forth. If it moves then you found the problem. If everything is OK then there might be a broken pin or shaft inside to Governor but I have never seen it happen.