sickle bar mower

[adamsgap]

I have 3 sickle bar mowers. 1 is in good working order. The other 2 need the wood pitman arm I think that is what it's called. Do I have to whittle one out? Or is there a source for them?My father left me quiet a few implements as I am laying the ground work out for a restoration I am also thinking about the equipment. I have been using this tractor quite a lot. Cub ser # 161063. I just work 10 acres I have a 454 for the larger stuff. Just trying to pick some more seasoned folks for some info. Thanks for a great message board I plan to be here quiet a lot.

[Lurker Carl]

Check with your local CaseIH dealer. I think it is still a stock item.

[Bigdog]

I beleive you you can also buy the wood blanks at TSC.

[Beestingz]

The pitman rod on mine is whittled out of what I believe is a piece of hornbeam and bark still in it. Looks in fine shape and should last for years. Might not be pretty but it works.

[parts man]

We've made them out of birch and maple too. Sure helps to have an original to go by.

[rleggitt]

Hi Adamsgap,

Welcome to the best CUB sight in the known universe. Congrats on the
CUB and equipment. The pitman rod as well as the flexible metal on the
end is still available from IH. I have both that I will be using to rebuild
my mower this winter.

You can also get them from TSC or if you are handy and have access to
woodworking tools you can make yourself one. I perfer ASH. It has more
flexibility and strength than hickory or maple or birch. This will absorb
a lot of shock and vibration. I would recommend that you coat whatever
you get with at least three coats of TUNG Oil.

Good luck and keep us posted on your efforts.

[Rudi]

adamsgap:

Well, might as well pop in my dos centavos worth as well.

I happen to be the proud owner of an original IH Pitman Arm. It still has the part number on it and is still painted Cream!

That one ain't gonna get used at all!

I also agree with Russ. From a wood standpoint the ash, especially white ash is a great wood to use in this application because of its flexibility. It is also a slightly wider and looser grain than oak - hence it's ability to flex - actually more like whiplash under stress. Making a pitman arm from wood is very easy, probably would take about an hour to make 3 or 4, which is what I would do. Best to have a couple of spares hanging around.

The hardest job (read time consuming) is to lay it out. Basically all you need is access to a drill press and a bandsaw. lacking either one, then a back saw and a portable drill will suffice if you take your time.

If you do not have access to ash, then I probably would choose white oak. Birch and maple I would hesitate with as they can be brittle and snap easily. Another good choice would be southern yellow pine - high oil content and resists rot and because it grows quite straight, the grain is true and highly resilient.

As Russ also said, 2 or 3 coats of tung oil is a good choice, however, they used to be coated with just boiled linseed oil in the past and when nothing else was available - good old 5 or 10 weight oil

Also, I would re-coat the pitman arm with oil in the spring before you start mowing and again in the fall when you put it away. It takes 5 minutes, but is well worth doing.

I do my horse hoe and my log wagon eash spring and fall. They will last for years as the water beads off and does not get sopped up.

[Jim Becker]

Having an exactly correct length pitman stick is critical to good mower operation. The easiest way to ensure that is to just buy one from the dealer. As anyone at Cub-arama could easily see first hand, my pitman is automaticly oiled with Hy-Tran.

[allenlook]

Ain't too hard to make something to exact dimensions when working with wood - it's working with metal that escapes me because I don't have the tools...

[Jim Becker]

The hard part is determining the exact dimensions of a piece of wood that is broken or missing.