Farmall 100, 1954 - 1973
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I have a IH 140 that I believe need a new transmission bearing and seal (27 and 25), it's for the transmission shaft (20) can't post photo that I got from Rudi.
I know that the tractor will have to be split but it appears that I might be able to get at the bearing and seal if I remove the retainer (28). Is that possable? Is the bearing pressed on the shaft?
Is this the page from Rudi?
No I don't about that bearing.
There are a bunch of guys like BigDog and David Bennet and Barnyard and may others that can do this stuff in there sleep. They should be able to help.
Give them a day to look over your message if no one reponds send them a PM.
David Bennett will be much more familiar with the 140. I'm gonna hope he can bail you out. I can't get the image large enough for my failing eyes to see the details and numbers.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
Been quite a while since I have been in one, but am about 98% certain it goes this way:
Remove the drive flange (30) then you can remove the retainer (28). The seal (27) will come off with the retainer. You knock the old seal out of the retainer after it is removed. Then you can get the bearing (25) out the front.
sorry for this one, this is one manual that I haven't resized the pics.. so it is going to be a bit on the large size.. as in size of pixels ..
It is from the purl=http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Super%20A%20-%20Super%20AV/TC-39B%20Parts%20Catalog/index.html]TC-39B Parts Catalog[/url], on the Cub Manual Server..
Item #25 IH Part # ST 246 Bearing, Ball W/Snap Ring (Transmission Spline Shaft, Front)
Item #27 IH Part # 42 177D Oil Seal, Transmission Spline Shaft
Hope this helps..
This is one manual that will need to be resized for tne new format.
Sorry for the late reply, I have the flue or some type of bug that has been a bit rough on me the past two days.
The 140 front bearing can be replaced without going too deep into the trans. Take the top off the trans and put it in two gears tp get the flange bolt loose[ the 140 unlike the cub had a 2 piece main shaft..If the front bearing is bad I would check the back bearing too. the top ones go bad before the bottom ones. Just use caution just like splitting a cub. 140 is just larger. chuck the front end so it want topel over You will need a bit of help as it is much heaver than a cub.
IN GOD WE TRUST
All others pay cash
Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg
8th Va fest link viewtopic.php?f=8&t=81392&p=657790#p657790
what do you mean by "two gears tp"?
Hope your feeling better.
I think he meant "two gears to get the flange bolt loose", speaking of moving the sliders on the top shaft to lock into two gears at once so you can remove the flange bolt (7/16 bolt on the end of shaft #20, not pictured) without the shaft moving on you. David, hope you're feeling better soon. I'm sitting here with laryngitis for the 2nd day, so I feel for you!
52 Super M, 53 Super H, 52 Super C, Wheel horse C101, JD 140.
Stan and David
Happy New and I hope you, David, are feeling better.
I got the 140 split. Everyting went smooth except for the key. That was a pain.
I agree that the upper rear bearing should also be replaced.
Is that pressed in. How do I get it out?
It appears that a snap ring holds the back gear. Do I remove that and pull the shaft? Or do I remove the 90 degree pulley and pull it out through the rear of the trans??
Thanks for all your help.
IHman61. Welcome aboard.
Tractors in the stable: '62 560D, '67 1256D, and co-owner '67 W1206D with dad, CC 86, CC 149, CC 169, CC 800, CC 782, CC 782D, CC 1650 w/dual hydraulics, CC 1772 diesel SGT
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